I am remodling my master bath and want to extend my shower into my master closet.


FROM:

OUTSIDE
__________________________
| | | / \ ||##|
G | |:o |( tub )||()|
A | |___|:\____/ || |
R | / T--------T|/ |
A | | __|
G | mst |__ /
E | clst |. | \
| |()|
| |. |_______ / \
| |\ .().|
HW|______|!\________|
()|WASHDRY|
| |
/ /
__|_______|

TO:

OUTSIDE
__________________________
| | | / \ ||##|
G | |: o |( tub )||()|
A | |________|:\____/ || |
R | / T--------T|/ |
A | | __|
G | mst |__ /
E | clst |. | \
| |()|
| |. |_______ / \
| |\ .().|
HW|______|!\________|
()|WASHDRY|
| |
/ /
__|_______|
In side the closet, I have already removed the drywall to reveal the supply plumbing:



shower
head
||
||
||
{vlv}
|| ||
|| ||
__|| ||_
/__ | |__\
// || || \\
|| || || ||
|| || || ||
|| H C ||
--------------
SLAB SLAB SLAB

I can only assume the two outside pipes go back down into the slab to make the runs to the tub. I can also assume that the tub has a similar offshoot on the cold to service the commode.

Is it possible/feasible/cost effective to break up a small section of the slab to relocate the 2 pipes for the run to the shower into the closet 3-4 feet? Or is it cheaper/easier/better to just run all new lines using the exterior garage wall into the closet? My main reason for thinking it is better to just go backwards was that I was not planning on extending the shower all the way to the exterior garage wall.. so I would have to either go into the slab to cover there or bring it down from the attic.

Thoughts? Any rough estimates to perform this work if I handle all the demo myself? How deep & wide into the slab would I need to go? Building the shower onto a step-up platform is not an option (personal preference).

Before I can answer, will this be a custom tile shower or a manufactured shower base? PLease explain a liite more about your plans. Regards, tom

On which wall is your water plumbing ?

Milo, his mixing valve and shower head will install on the left side of the enclosure as shown in his diagram.

Was planning on trying my hand at a custom shower pan installation with the schluter kerdi system (w/o their prefab tray) as it seems to be a little easier and only requires a single mortar bed.

I do not plan on moving the drain. The drain will stay put and be at the entrance to the shower and away from the shower head. But remember this is only a 6-7' long shower.

Based on the separation of piping coming out of the slab, I think the trench should only need to be 6-8", not sure how deep, perhaps just 3" and have a run of 3-4'. I do have some concerns about post-tension cabling and the proximity of the slab work so close to the edge of the house (3-4'). I may be making a mountain out of a mole hill here since this is just copper piping and not the drain line. But I'm not familiar with code and how deep supply piping must be under the slab -- or if that is even a requirement.

Milo, the new plumbing will still be an interior wall that will be constructed. Additionally, I am tossing out the idea of having 2 heads and a 3-way control valve after the mixing valve and having a 12" rain showerhead mounted on the ceiling.

I thought about being able to run the copper right on the slab and just cover it up with mortar bed but I thought that may make the pitch to high.

Hobbzilla: You are making wise decision: leave the drain in the same location. Build your own custom pan. Hot mop or install PVC liner. Either way si fine. You could run h/c water pipes in the mortar bed, but... I personally would suggest to score the concrete and chip it out for new pipes. I am afraid that your new mortar bed, and tile, may crack where pipes are running, especially where hot water pipe will be.

Yes, post-tension cable may create problem for you if you decide to cut and dig into concrete slab - but it is not end of the world. We work around these cables all the time w/o problem.

Hey Hobzilla,
Let me give you another option with the water lines. Your diagram shows a manifold in the shower wall, correct? That wall comes down for the shower floor , correct? What are you going to do with the manifold? Where's that going to hide out at?
If you will be moving it to another wall why no simply extend the hot and cold supplies up overhead and then drop down to pick up your shower valve. And why not go a little wild and place a few extra shower heads , including a pancake rain shower head, if you want to. You could trick it out with chrome shut offs to each shower head in the shower wall.
The nicest part about designing tyour own custom built shower is that you can have it any way you want it. Good luck, Tom

Tom,

I'm not sure I completely understand what you mean. I don't believe there is a manifold in the current shower wall or if there is, I guess the term is used for more than what I think of when I hear "manifold".

The plans do include a new shower plumbing wall. However, that wall was not going to go to the ceiling of the closet. I was only going to go 8' and leave a 2' storage space above the shower in the closet. The ceilings in my house and closet are 10'. The current shower wall does extend all the way to the ceiling and my plans were to simply knock out a 2.5'w x 7'h entrance into the new section of shower.

It really is going to be more of a inner and outer shower. The inner shower will be completely enclosed like a closet except an entry into where the existing shower is. The existing shower will become the landing and drying off area where the drain is and will have a towel bar (something sorely missing in our bathroom -- we have a towel hook and the shower door opens up into it so you have to reach around the door to get your towel.. very well thought out). We plan on having no doors or glass anywhere.

The current shower is a standard square prefab'd shower (3x3' ?) with glass on one side with a half-wall between the shower & tub, a glass door with a small strip of glass and tile on the remain two walls. The current shower plumbing wall has 4 pipes that come up through the slab. 2 lines continue to the mixing valve and up to the shower head. The other two lines simply connect to the hot & cold lines. I can only assume they make the short run to the tub. Why the lines didn't go under the prefab curb and into the half-wall to the tub, I have no idea.. I can take some pics if needed of everything.

Regardless, the issues at hand is that the current shower plumbing wall is right smack in the middle of the new shower. The lines actually would be the best spot for a new drain.. but again, I don't want to mess with that!

My plan was to cut the lines a inch or two below the slab and solder elbows to extend to the newly built shower plumbing wall by running them a with the slab down a few inches for about 3 feet.. I have read various concerns about having solder joints under or in the slab but I assumed that there were probably already some solder joints under or in the slab already to make some of the longer runs and the bends, but that may not be true. Of course the new copper pipe would be insluated and sleeved or in a PVC conduit OR both.

I probably should call the local code office to find out what my options are. I certainly don't want a leak and my insurance company to laugh..

Tom,
I'm not sure I completely understand what you mean. I don't believe there is a manifold in the current shower wall or if there is, I guess the term is used for more than what I think of when I hear "manifold".
Your drawing shows a manifold in the shower wall,(see image) A manifold is simply where the water pipes come out of the slab and supply a fixture and then jump back down into the slab. Where you going to put it when you remove the shower wall?

My plan was to cut the lines a inch or two below the slab and solder elbows to extend to the newly built shower plumbing wall by running them a with the slab down a few inches for about 3 feet.. I have read various concerns about having solder joints under or in the slab but I assumed that there were probably already some solder joints under or in the slab already to make some of the longer runs and the bends, but that may not be true. I probably should call the local code office to find out what my options are. Change your plans! Solder joints under a slab's are a no-no. That's why we have manifolds. So the solder joints are above the slab. The Building Department will verify this if you call.

The current shower plumbing wall has 4 pipes that come up through the slab. 2 lines continue to the mixing valve and up to the shower head. The other two lines simply connect to the hot & cold lines. I can only assume they make the short run to the tub. Why the lines didn't go under the prefab curb and into the half-wall to the tub, I have no idea.. I can take some pics if needed of everything No need for pics. The manifold is sinply hot and cold feeds.
The reason I know so much about slab plumbing is that I live on the Gulf Coast where ALL of our buildings are on slabs an d I've been here doing this since 1955. Which bririgs us back to my originial question. Whadda you going to do with that pesky manifold? This will be a toughie for you. Ya can't cap it off because it's feeding other fixtures, Ya can't hide it under cemet or mortar . Once you open up that wall you got a problem.. Do you have a solution? I know of only one that will keep you legal but you might just come up with another. I feel bad about raining all over your parade but better to know these things before you get too far along. Back to you, tom

Tom,

Well, crap!

If that is the way to do it, then at least I can have a sigh of relief in chopping up my slab! I still have some options but I think only one will fit the picture in my head.

1) I could build a bench in the middle of my shower to hide the manifold and wrap it around the side of the closet to the new location. However, I think that might cause a problem with water flow to the drain since I'm not moving it.

2) I have a good 3 feet from the manifold to the closet door so I could offset my entrance into the "main" shower area but again, flow to the drain would be weird.

3) I could create a step-up platform shower and extend my drain. I really, really think this would be bad in both function and design. Not to mention being difficult when it comes time to have another knee surgery after playing basketball when I'm out of shape!

Therefore, I guess my new plan is as follows:
Cap the existing lines. Tie into the washer supply lines and run new lines from the closet wall that is on the opposite side as the washer/dryer. The new run would be in the existing walls (garage and exterior wall) and wrap around the entire closet. Assuming that the manifold feeds the tub, I would have a line split and just keep going to the tub which is achievable by continuing down the exterior wall to the tub.

Questions resulting from new plan:
1) Other than just capping and trying all the fixtures, how do I find out what *really* is fed from the manifold?

2) If code prohibits solder joints below slab, does cutting & capping the lines have to occur above grade too? If so then I still have problems. The only way I could see that as not being an issue would be to find the origin of the line and cut it from that supply. Thus, leaving some abandonded piping -- at which point even capping isn't needed.

Thoughts?

1) I could build a bench in the middle of my shower to hide the manifold and wrap it around the side of the closet to the new location. However, I think that might cause a problem with water flow to the drain since I'm not moving it.
Thinking outside the box! I like that! Wish more people did that, (including some plumbers I knnow.) But as noval as it sounds it's impractical and you're still left with figuring out how to bring the shower supplies out.

2) I have a good 3 feet from the manifold to the closet door so I could offset my entrance into the "main" shower area but again, flow to the drain would be weird. Nope again!



3) I could create a step-up platform shower and extend my drain. That platform would have to be pretty high to cover the manifold wouldn't it? And since The drain's already in place and the most difficult to change let's leave it alone.
4)
Thherefore, I guess my new plan is as follows:
Cap the existing lines. Tie into the washer supply lines and run new lines from the closet wall that is on the opposite side as the washer/dryer. The new run would be in the existing walls (garage and exterior wall) and wrap around the entire closet. Assuming that the manifold feeds the tub, I would have a line split and just keep going to the tub which is achievable by continuing down the exterior wall to the tub. .
Sorry! That won't work either! You don't know what else that manifold's feeding. That maniflod's part of a continuous loop that jumps up in one wall to supply a fixture and then jumps back under the slab to pop up in another wall to feed another and so on down the line. Who knows how many fixtures you would be cutting out of the loop.

Questions resulting from new plan:
1) Other than just capping and trying all the fixtures, how do I find out what *really* is fed from the manifold? The only way would be to cap the lines and see what fixtures you disable. And then what? Run separate supplies to each disabled fixture?

2) If code prohibits solder joints below slab, does cutting & capping the lines have to occur above grade too? If so then I still have problems. The only way I could see that as not being an issue would be to find the origin of the line and cut it from that supply. Thus, leaving some abandonded piping -- at which point even capping isn't needed. That would work but it's too labor intensive.

OK! We've looked at your ideas
. Time to take a peek at mine. Before I go into it I need to know if this is a one story house? The wall you have marked "outside" Is it really a outside wall? What material is this outside wall? Frame or cement block? I assume the inner shower wall goes all the way up to the ceiling and isn't a shadow wall.
My way may need to solder some pipes. Can you handle that? Cheer up! There is a way out of this. Tom

Tom,

Well the manifold's solder joints are probably 6" up from the slab. I assumed they could be cut down & re-connected. Therefore, the platform could be 6" or less.

As far as what other fixtures are being fed by this manifold. Just based on the location of other fixtures, I had just assumed that the manifold was feeding the tub. I too assumed that whatever was the next in the loop would be the only fixture that needed to be re-run as the remaining in the chain would be restored if it was.

To answer your question, it is a single-story house. The wall marked is an outside wall is an external wall. It is framed and has a brick exterior.

The two walls of the shower both go all the way to the ceiling. The other simply glass door and window set on a half wall between the shower & bath.

You may also consider this option: Tub pedestal has h/c plumbing lines for the tub faucet. Tee-off inside the pedestal and extend new h/c water lines to the exterior wall, than bring them through the wall to your desired shower valve location.

As far as the existing plumbing in the middle of the shower: Lower your manifold below existing below the floor. Cap off h/c shower outlets.

Milo,

I thought if I capped off the shower supply and lowered my manifold below the slab that would be the equivalent of soldering under the slab -- which was indicated as a "no, no" and would not pass code. If I was able to do that.. I wouldn't cap off the shower lines and t-off from the tub, I would just extend them under the slab as was my original plan.

Am I missing something?

You don't solder copper under slab. You weld it using silver rod. Silver-welded joints in copper tubing under slab are allowed.

You could platform the shower but they always look kind of funky and not well thought out.
OK! Here's my game plan. Disconnect the hot and cold supplies from the shower valve and cap them off so you'll have water in the house. Now take up the floor and see which way the underslab copper's coming from. Taking up the floor follow the copper back to the nearest wall. Since it's all all soft copper you can reposition the manifold in that wall. You may have some solder work to do here so mark all the hot and cold lines, ( looking at the manifold from the shower side the hot raiser should be on the left). You should now have the manifold and the hot and cold supplies inside the wall. So far- so good! If you haven't kinked any lines and the soft copper's all in one piece you may patch the floor. Now you can take soft 1/.2" copper and loop up into the attic and drop down in through the shower wall to pick up the shower valve.
You'll end up with a professional looking job that looks like a pro put it in. M ilo, Mark, can you come up with something better?
Sound like a plan? Cheers Tom.

You don't solder copper under slab. You weld it using silver rod. Silver-welded joints in copper tubing under slab are allowed.

Okay, instead of "soldering" can I "weld" the manifold using silver rod under the slab? And extend my lines as originally planned?



OK! Here's my game plan. Disconnect the hot and cold supplies from the shower valve and cap them off so you'll have water in the house.

Following you so far. I should have water into the house and all fixtures in that loop but not to the shower.



Now take up the floor and see which way the underslab copper's coming from. Taking up the floor follow the copper back to the nearest wall.

Take up the floor? If I'm following you, you are saying try to relocate the manifold the 1-2' to the right or to the left of where it is at in order to get it out of the middle of the shower. Sounds like a plan! So long as if I have enough slack in the pipe to do this... I guess I was under the impression if I were to try to relocate the manifold that I would not have but a few inches of give in either direction.

Welding copper with silver rod is an approved method of sealing copper under slab...

Welding copper with silver rod is an approved method of sealing copper under slab...
Yes from what I have found, it is the code. However, I have read that I'm asking for trouble later on... because silver solder/brazing severely weakens the fitting and the copper tube. The joint may not break, but the fitting itself could. I most definitely don't want to increase the chances for a leak under the slab.. I've been feeling pretty unlucky lately! :(

I did find out at least the hot water connection manifold does run to the tub. This was evidenced by the flow of water felt, heard and the pipe heating up as the bath water was being run. This increases my confidence that if I were to re-run the shower and a run new lines to the tub that anything else after the shower would continue to be serviced. My only issue is that by doing so and capping the manifold, I would have a dead line and have been warned about the stagnant water that would creat. Not to mention that it can create health issues, and if the water gets bad enough it could be corrosive to the copper and cause it to fail and have a leak under the slab... So, now how to find that runs origin? Thoughts?

As Tom suggestes, if I did try and relocate the manifold a few feet to the right or left, how would I be able to if the existing manifold truly does service the tub? I think I would definitely have the slack to follow the supply line back to it's origin.. but what about the line that continues on? It will be going in a different direction and more than likely at a 90 degree angle? I would probably be limited by the slack in that run than the originating one..

It would look like this from a birds-eye. The "/" lines are the runs I'm talking about..



before:
WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW
W W w
W W[M]===== tub
W W|| w
W ||
W W??
W W
W W
W W
W W
WWWWWWW

after:
WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW
W w
W: /===== tub
W===== // w
WWWWWW[M]
W ??
W W
W W
W W
W W
WWWWWWW

Welding copper with silver rod is an approved method of sealing copper under slab...

Not down here Milo! And I'm surprised that a code as strict as UPC allows it at all. In my area you have to get special permission to place any type of a joint under the pour. I've only done it once in all the time I've been here. Back in 79 I had a building of 6 one story untits burn to the slab. Melted all our copper supplies. We had just started to stack out so we didn't lose anything but our water pipes. The general contractor was planning breaking up the slab and starting from scratch. I told him that if the electrictions lines were clear and I could get permission to run solder joints under the slab I thought save the slab. Long story short! I jackhammered up the lab at each stub up down to good copper, soildered a coupling and brought them up over grade. But before we could patch the slab I had to pump each unit up to 125 PSI and hold it over night. That's the only time I ever soldered joints under a slab. Any you say your code allows this? Is this common practice or do you have to get permision? Just curious. Regards, Tom

Hobbzilla, May I call you Hobb? I'm having a little difficulty reading your manifold drawings. Can you "dumb " it down a bit for me?

what about the line that continues on? It will be going in a different direction and more than likely at a 90 degree angle? I would probably be limited by the slack in that run than the originating one..
I understand your concerns. However, the nicest thing about water pipe is that you have much more flexability then drainage. If you can just get that manifold moved over inside a wall if you come up short on a feeder line under the slab , you can always track it back and cut both ends making it a dead line . You may then loop back up in the attic and drop another supply down to pick up the fixture.
Once you get that hot and cold manifold inside a wall you could pipe to any fixture in the house. Of course you could still platform the shower and step up in to it. Milo gaveyou good advice and I laid out how I would do it if it were my job but you're the final word. Your choice! Cheers, Tom

Not down here Milo! And I'm suprised that a code as strict as UPC allows it at all. In my area you have to get special permission to place any type of a joint under the pour. I've only done it once in all the time I've been here. Back in 79 I had a building of 6 one story untits burn to the slab. Melted all our copper supplies. We had just started to stack out so we didn't lose anything but our water pipes. The general contractor was planning breaking up the slab and starting from scratch. I told him that if the electrictions lines were clear and I could get permission to run solder joints under the slab I thought save the slab. Long story short! I jackhammered up the lab at each stub up down to good copper, soildered a coupling and brought them up over grade. But before we could patch the slab I had to pump each unit up to 125 PSI and hold it over night. That's the only time I ever soldered joints under a slab. Any you say your code allows this? Is this common practice or do you have to get permision? Just curious. Regards, Tom

Tom, there are situations where you have to make a connection under slab. What do you do in these cases in your area ?

Tom, there are situations where you have to make a connection under slab. What do you do in these cases in your area ? Never in new construction! Most of the plumbing companys I've worked for are new construction or repair. I've never worked for a company that specialized in remodeling. I never liked remodel jobs. The demo always seemed dirty and with older homes you ran into problems with the older plumbing.
If we have a under slab leak in a residence that we have done we take up the slab,dig down to the leak, cut it out, solder in a new piece of copper, run a test, cover it up, patch the slab and hope like hell the inspector doesn't find out what we did. So far we've been lucky, that doesn't happen too often down here and all our repairs have held. I don't advise making joints under the slab if there's another way and if hobbzilla can get that hot and cold manifold moved over inside a wall he has the freedom to loop a feeder line to any fixture that he can't move over with the manifold. We both gave him viable options. Let's see what he decides. Regards, Tom

Well I've been called a lot of things in my life: Hobbs, Hobb-knob, Hobbzilla, Ryan, Ryno, Ry-Ry, Rybo-Dybo, and zilla, but that might be my first "Hobb". :)

I just checked around and silver-soldering, since it is actually a weld, is an approved method of making a connection under the slab here in Dallas, TX. To add some additional concerns, I found out I do in fact have post-tension cables. And my shower manifold is about 1.5' from an exterior wall and have been told it is probably coming up through not just a 4" slab, but the outside pier which can be 2-3' deep and 2' or so wide...

I did a quick test on the manifold and from touch and sound, am fairly confident it only feeds the tub. I think I realize that no matter what, I will have to open the slab at least enough to cap off the lines.

My goals are:
1) First and foremost to protect the value of my home and keep it insurable. Therefore, I will get a permit and make sure it passes inspection.
2) Do as much work that I feel comfortable myself in order to stay within budget ($2k)
3) Leave the drain where it is at all design costs.
4) No platform or step-up shower.
5) Avoid creating a stagnent line to the shower. Since I don't know the source, the line will still contain water and can corrode the pipes and or be a heath concern.
6) Avoid silver-solder. Given that I do not have the experience, the equipment, and that although is code, can increase my odds of having a slab leak, silver-soldering is something I want to avoid.
7) Avoid running pipes on exterior walls. While I believe the garage is technically considered an exterior wall, I am confident any copper placed in that wall will not have a concern of freezing.
8) Work smarter, not harder. :)

So, my revised plan is as follows: I will crack open the slab to see where the initial run comes from and attempt to move the entire manifold as Tom suggests so it is no longer in the middle of the new shower. If I don't have the slack to move it, or if I damage the pipe, I am left with no other option but to silver-solder. I believe I would have to cap it will silver-solder, so I might as well just trench and extend the lines versus leave them stagnent _and_ capped. I think I can save some extra slab work by running the line to the tub through the shower curb if needed..

I have a plumbing contractor coming over to give me a quote and look at this today so I will see what he says.

Well, I'm back and in the thick of it. I wanted to write a few thousand words but I'll just post some pictures.

I have been informed by several people, that my idea for keeping the drain where it is based purely on my laziness. If that is the case, then since I already have to dig a trench for the drain, if worse comes to worse I will just run new lines to the tub in the drain trench.. Are there any issues with that?

As you can see, it does appear the manifold simply feeds the tub and nothing else. The tub has no manifold.

Also, is it a good sign or bad sign that the drain is already about 4" into the concrete and there is still concrete left to break up? I'm afraid I'm over a concrete beam being so close to the exterior wall.

Can the drain be run "in" the concrete? Or does it have to be run in the ground under the slab like the supply lines?

is it a good sign or bad sign that the drain is already about 4" into the concrete and there is still concrete left to break up? I'm afraid I'm over a concrete beam being so close to the exterior wall.
Can the drain be run "in" the concrete? Or does it have to be run in the ground under the slab like the supply lines?
You did say the job will be inspected, correct? And let me see if I understand,
You want to place a 90 on the old drain raiser, using the old trap and vent, and run a new drain line in the pour over to another 90 which would then stub up to pick up the new shower. Is this correct?
Since by doing this you are not only building a dog-leg in the drain line but also converting your "P" trap into a running trap,(see image).
I think I'd run that by the inspector first. What do you think? Regards, Tom

Tom,

The jury is out on the inspection. I did contact the local gov't and apparently I need like 3 or 4 different permits (general, plumbing & electrical). With each running about $100 and the fact that I'm looking to be about $500 over my original budget... To make matters worse, the inspector had never heard of the schulter kerdi product and there is a good chance, unless kerdi was in the 2006 IPC code (doubtful) using standard drywall will be out of the question -- which means more $$ spent on cbu or similar. I am not sure how many inspections are required and at what stages they will need to be performed. No matter what, if I end up hiring a plumber, they (the plumber) will pull a permit regardless on that and if an inspector comes to look at that, I may get fined right then and there without the other permits pulled.

The city goes by the 2006 IPC code.


You want to place a 90 on the old drain raiser, using the old trap and vent, and run a new drain line in the pour over to another 90 which would then stub up to pick up the new shower. Is this correct?

I guess I don't know what I want to do yet. :) I was most definitely planning on using the existing vent and keepign the main drainage line that it is tied to now. Both the tub and the old shower's vent is halfway between them both on that exterior wall which didn't make the picture frame. I guess all of this will depend on several things:

1) Is it okay (code) to run a drain line in the pour? Or does it have to be in the ground under the slab?
2) How close to the stub does the p-trap have to be?
3) I am not opposed to opening up the current drain, taking out the trap and simply cutting and extending the line, creating a new p-trap where the new drain will be.

Thanks in advance for the assistance!

1) Is it okay (code) to run a drain line in the pour? Or does it have to be in the ground under the slab?It's not good practice run your drain lines in the cement Instead of under it. I've seen floors that developed cracks after a while.

2) How close to the stub does the p-trap have to be?Since it's not good plumbing practice to offset the trap, create a dog leg in the drain line and change the "P" rgrp into a running trap Code does not addrese this.

3) I am not opposed to opening up the current drain, taking out the trap and simply cutting and extending the line, creating a new p-trap where the new drain will be.
I would definitely go with door #3. I can see backups due to hair plus a very smelly drain in your future if you offset the trap. Good luck, Tom

Tom,

Thanks, after I cut the slab and cut the existing trap and extend the line and make the new p-trap, what kind of slope do I need to adhere to in order to allow the shower to drain properly?

I know the shower pan is 1/4" inch drop per foot...

Thanks in advance!

I know the shower pan is 1/4" inch drop per foot... And so is the 2" drain line. Good luck, Tom

Tom,

Was this is your vision put into place?

More photos available here. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/11558691@N03/sets/72157617655329150/)

I got a little pex work involved to as you can see under the tub. I put in some new fixtures that were all done in copper and sweated on. Put in some ball valves just in case I need to do it again!

Nice... 2 things:

1. Drywall: is that drywall approved for wet location ?
2. To maintain even flow, Body sprays should be roughed-in in a loop-type installation . See drawing...

Otherwise, you've made good progress... It looks nice and clean

Milo,

1) No the drywall by itself is never a good idea to use in a shower. However, I'm using Schluter Kerdi as a water-vapor barrier. The manufacturer recommends installing it directly on standard drywall. More info can be found on their website (http://www.schlueter-systems.com/).

2) Yes I read that in the instructions... I ended up biting the bullet and sub'd out the slab & plumbing to a pro. It is too late to update the plumbing -- and quite honestly, I probably won't be using them that much anyway -- I'm all about the rain shower head! The sub assured me that for just 2 spray's it wouldn't matter... oh well. Live and learn!

I think I got a good deal. He stated the plumbing company he works for would have charged $1500-2000 for this job; I paid him half that. It took he and a partner close to 9 hours to do all the work in one day. It would have taken me a month in my spare time.

Great, I am glad you are doing it the right way and using the materials designed for shower installations. I couldn't tell from the photos...

As far as the body sprays go: If you won't use them too much than it should not be a problem. It is mostly only a visual thing, anyway. Without the loop, flow may be uneven. Advice: get Hans-Grohe or Grohe body sprays heads. They have very low flow that accommodate 1/2" pipe and 2 sprays.

Once again, great job ! Please, don't forget to post photos of finished project for all of us to enjoy ! Good luck... Milo

Tom,

Was this is your vision put into place?

More photos available here. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/11558691@N03/sets/72157617655329150/)

I got a little pex work involved to as you can see under the tub. I put in some new fixtures that were all done in copper and sweated on. Put in some ball valves just in case I need to do it again!

That's exactly what I had in mine. Once you get that manifold in a wall you can loop it up and drop it down and pick up anything you choose. Nice job!