Just installed a bathroom and laundry room in the basement, that was already to an in-ground tank. I have a Rigid waste pump in the waste tank. The outlet pipe goes up about 6 feet then bends to a 45 where I have a check valve and shutoff valve. Pipe goes up at a 45 another two feet and then goes into the main pipe going to the septic system.

I'm thinking I have the check valve too far away from the pump. When the pump runs, it only runs for about 3 seconds. When it shuts off, the water drains back into the tank from the check valve, so very little waste actually makes it to the main line where gravity takes over to take the waste to the septic tank.

Should I move the check valve so it's closer to the pump? I'm thinking I should come out of the tank about a foot to a 90 and install the check valve there. Or, am I worried about nothing?

Thanks.

Hi Thumpernator...

The 6ft height is usually not a major issue regarding pump cycling like this. I'm thinking the pump may not be set deep enough in the tank (may be on multiple cement blocks, for example) or the float may be set improperly.

What kind of float do you have? A pill type-switch (float on a cord rises side to side and up and down) or a stationary float (is attached to pump directly.. only raises up and down)?

Any paper work that may have a ridgid model numer?

Back to you.

MARK

As Mark said, the present distance should not be an issue...

Based on recommendation of our pump manufacturer, we install all our check valves in vertical position and no higher than 12" from the pump discharge. Also we drill 3/8" hole right above the discharge, between the pump and check valve...

Hi Thumpernator...

The 6ft height is usually not a major issue regarding pump cycling like this. I'm thinking the pump may not be set deep enough in the tank (may be on multiple cement blocks, for example) or the float may be set improperly.

What kind of float do you have? A pill type-switch (float on a cord rises side to side and up and down) or a stationary float (is attached to pump directly..only raises up and down)?

Any paper work that may have a ridgid model numer?

Back to you.

MARK

The pump is sitting on the bottom of the tank (put it there myself). It's a Rigid SSEP500 that has an electronic level sensor. And yes, I have the manual for it. The pump is brand new and I tested the level mechanism before I closed up the system. It pumps to the rated level and shuts off. It has a very high pump rate. I drilled the weep hole just like the manual said to do it. The manual doesn't state how far away to place the check valve, just that it had to have one.

The manual also states to mount the check valve horizontally or up to a 45 angle. It can't be mounted vertically in a waste system, since waste could collect on top and prevent the valve from opening.

Hope this helps.

Do what manufacturer tells you to do.

FYI: Sewer will collect behind check valve no matter what position you put it in. In fact, in it will seal-close better in vertical position. I am enclosing installation diagram from a typical in-ground pump installation...

How large is the tank... any idea?

Thanks, guys. I don't know the exact size of the tank. It was installed by the dealer. But I think it's just like the ones sold at Home Depot, about 4' deep and about 2.5' in diameter.

BTW, my neighbor has the same setup in the basement. His does exactly the same as mine.

Maybe it's a good time to move the check valve now, since all that's in the system is clean water. I think it just makes good sense to have it as close to the pump as possible. That way, the pump will not run as often. A 2" line holds a lot of water when it's full.

Mark, size of HD buckets is 18"x 30"

Thum'tor: I agree with you: install that check valve as close to the pump as possible. If it runs only 3 seconds than it tells me that the pump is very powerful and the bucket is small.

What kind of float do you have? Is it built on side of the pump or hanging on cable inside the bucket ?

Milo,

The level sensor isn't a float. It's a capacitive plate mounted on the side of the pump. Completely electronic. Measured the top plate, and those dimensions look correct.

The pump motor is 1/2 HP and the flow rate is 7680 GPH. If my math is correct, that's about 2.1 gal per second. So it's pumping around 6 gal when it comes on.

BTW, it's a RIDGID. I misspelled it earlier.

DUH!

I am sorry, now when I read your previous post I noticed you stated that info already. My oversight...

It seems to me that 6glns per minute is not too much. I think it should be pumping lot more. Is that sensor adjustable ? When you look down the pit, does it pump all the way to the bottom ?

Yes, Ridgid = Home Depot brand...

Sensor isn't adjustable.

Wonder if I should change the pump to a different brand before the crap flows. Any suggestions if I go that route?


Another thought. I've been doing some more reading about the electronic level and don't like what I'm reading. Evidently, Ridgid knows about the problem and the problem is that the sensor plate gets a film on it and has to be cleaned off from time to time. That's not something I want to do with a WASTE system.

So,, options would be to do nothing and see what happens. Change to a different pump. Keep the present pump and buy a separate level switch. I could run that cord to the outside and switch to it if the electronic one peters out.

The present Ridgid has two cords, one for the level switch and one for the pump.

So I need some expert advise on what to do. This system is servicing a bathroom and laundry room. We have a high efficiency front loader washing machine which uses about a third of the water as a top loader. The bathroom will mostly be used for liquid waste, very seldom being used for the #2 job. So the main use of the system will most likely be from the washing machine. Don't know if that info helps, but thought I'd throw it in there for you experts.

I just glanced at the box the pump came in and it has in big print, "Lifetime maintenance-free." Yeah,, right.

Thumpernator... I recommend you install a ZOELLER sewage ejector (2" discharge)....these pumps never fail and never need maintenance unless tampons or napkins get into the ejector pit...;)

See picture below.

These can be purchased online or should be available at a local plumbing supply company.

The setup is exactly as on the last one...drill 5/16" hole and set into pit with check valve about 3 feet above the pump.

The float is integral to the unit as you can see and does not rely on a separate float switch... all in all, pretty much all I have ever installed in 27 years now. Very reliable pump.

Check out www.zoeller.com (http://www.zoeller.com) for more info.

MARK

I agree with Mark: Zoeller is a great product and will give you years of dependable service. We also install Zoeller on all of our projects.

For your application, I would use M267 Zoeller pump with built in float - as shown in Mark's post above...

Thanks Mark. I just ordered Zoeller M267 Waste-Mate Cast Iron 115 Volt 0.5 HP Sewage & Dewatering Submersible Pump Automatic (http://www.irawoods.com/Zoeller-M267-Waste-Mate-Cast-Iron-115-Volt-0-5-HP-Sewage-Dewatering-Submersible-Pump-Automatic?sc=2&category=48898)

Now I've got to see if I can take back the Ridgid.

Dave

LOL! Good luck with returning used Sewer Pump at Home Depot counter !

I agree with Mark: Zoeller is a great product and will give you years of dependable service. We also install Zoeller on all of our projects.

For your application, I would use M267 Zoeller pump with built in float - as shown in Mark's post above....

Thanks, Milo. Didn't see your post while I was posting my last one. Couldn't find one locally, but for two day shipping it was only $25, but no sales tax.

Hopefully, I ordered the right one. :D

Tom, you are welcome to have it !

I'm sure it will be no problem since you never did use it with any sewage.. right? Just don't use any bleach... that'll be a dead giveaway... ;)

Simple wash up and you should be all set... ;)

Good luck!

I just installed the Zoeller pump and in the instructions it shows the check valve in the vertical position. All other literature I've seen on other pumps say not to do this because debris can rest on top of the flapper and keep it from opening.

I do not have the Zoeller model check valve, but rather one from the local plumbing supply, and it is a flapper type.

You guys ever heard of a problem mounting it vertically? Sure would make a lot less work for me if I do it that way.

Also, is there a problem if there were two check valves in the system? I already have on about 5' up on a 45 angle, and just adding one in the vertical just above the tank would be easier than the alternative.

Thanks for all your professional help, guys.

Dave

Yes, as I told you couple time before we ALWAYS install flopper-type check valves in vertical position - as per Zoeller instructions.

I don't think 2 check valves will be a problem. Just space them out a bit so they are not on top of each other.

Yes, as I told you couple time before we ALWAYS install flopper-type check valves in vertical position - as per Zoeller instructions.

I don't think 2 check valves will be a problem. Just space them out a bit so they are not on top of each other.

I realize you mentioned that above, but I wasn't sure if you were using Zoeller's valve, which may (with my luck) be slightly different, enough to not cause a problem. That's why I was more specific this time.

Again, I really do appreciate your time and expertise.

BTW, just comparing the "looks" of the two pumps shows the better quality with the Zoeller.

Thumpernator...

You said it... zoeller won't let you down.

Read the installation instructions and check out the diagram that came with the instructions... always gives best result!

Did you drill the 5/16" hole as required to prevent "air-lock".. Let us know.

In terms of the check valve you could probably just stick with the one that is in place right now. However, I don't think a second check valve installed as recommended on the vertical will hurt anything either.

Let us know result... ;)

MARK

The flopper check valves are more-less of the same design. We like to use Zoeller brand, not the plastic one, but the one that has cast iron body.

Drop by and let us know how you did..

It's all done and everything works. Having the check valve just outside the tank really makes a difference. Hardest part of the whole job was to get the rubber seal installed in the lid.

I am a very happy 'camper'.

You guys are awesome. Thanks again for taking the time to help out us amateurs.

Thumpernator...

Did you drill the 5/16" hole as required to prevent "air-lock"...? Let us know.
MARK

Mark,

I did drill the hole, but the instructions said to drill a 3/16 hole.

Don't see how you can forget that hole. It's printed on almost every flap of the box and several places in the instructions. But I guess it does happen.

Thanks for your help, Mark.

Dave

Thumpernator...

You would be amazed at what some people consider unnecessary even when clearly labled ten times... :p

3/16" hole... check... sounds right!

Don't forget to inform everyone that feminine-napkins/tampons, paper towels/napkins, tooth-floss, and mop strings (just some of the things I remember unwinding off a sewage ejector) should never be put into the fixtures going to this pit!

Glad to help...

MARK

Thumpernator...

Don't forget to inform everyone that feminine-napkins/tampons, paper towels/napkins, tooth-floss, and mop strings (just some of the things I remember unwinding off a sewage ejector) should never be put into the fixtures going to this pit!!

MARK


Guess I need to find one of those placards I've seen in some restrooms at restaurants and such. Can't see myself making an announcement every time we have guests, which is quite often.

Now that would make an interesting thread; suggestions on what the placard should read. I think I'll go with, "Don't make me sad, don't flush your rag." :D

.

How about, "don't be a sap, only thing that goes down this toilet are toilet paper, pee and crap... ;)

Take care...

MARK

I just installed the Zoeller pump and in the instructions it shows the check valve in the vertical position. All other literature I've seen on other pumps say not to do this because debris can rest on top of the flapper and keep it from opening.

I do not have the Zoeller model check valve, but rather one from the local plumbing supply, and it is a flapper type.

You guys ever heard of a problem mounting it vertically? Sure would make a lot less work for me if I do it that way.

I have never installed the check valve on a sewage ejection system horizontally.

Given the macerating action of the pumps impeller, the likelihood of anything large enough to inhibit the closing of the check valve making it that far upstream are slim to none.

I'm one of those guys that didn't read the instructions when replacing his ejector pump. The previous pump and discharge pipe did not have a hole and I did not put one in. 3 weeks after installing the RIDGID SSEP500 it stopped working. Pump turns on, but does not pump. Impeller moves freely. What would happen if I didn't drill the hole in the pipe?

You may have an advantage with two check valves. If your lower one is too close to the pit to open the lid for servicing the upper one will hold the water above it. Also, I had a customer complain about the loud bang at the end of a pump cycle. I put another check valve up high on the vertical pipe and no more loud bang, just a mild thunk.