I am installing a wetbar in a basement. I had a 2" pvc drain line roughed-in before the slab was poured. This 2" pvc line is vertical and stubbed off at about 12". I am putting a base cabinet over top of this drain line and will use a "S" trap to connect to the sink above. Since there is no vent line available, I will install an air vent under the counter.

Beside this 24" base cabinet, I'm installing an ice maker. The drain is 3" off the bottom. The horizontal run from the ice maker to the 2" drain is about 18". Since the ice maker drain is so low to the floor, I will have to use a condensate pump. The 2" drain in the cabinet is 6.75" off the floor.

I've read about an air vent requirement for the ice maker but since I'm using a condensate pump I don't know how to physically hook everything up. Do I bring the ice maker drain to a point above the sink "P" trap? What venting is required for the icemaker if any or does the sink AAV take care of the requirement?

Thanks

If you loop your condensate pump hose you will have created a trap but tieing into the sink drain above its trap is all that is necessary. The codensate pump tank is not 100% air tight and self vents.

I called an inspector and he said it needed to be connected like a dishwasher. He said the ice machine needed to be protected from a plugged drain line and backing up into the ice machine. He told me to copy my dishwasher hookup.

Did he say the dishwasher hook up could use a big loop in the drain or does he require a counter top air gap. Worth asking him.

He didn't mention a loop, I've looked under my sink and there is what appears to be an air vent for draining purposes. I'm not sure what an air gap looks like, but there is nothing mounted at counter top height and connected to any piping. When I get home I'm taking a good look under my sink again.

Thought I would post a picture of the loop and the air gap setup Ballenger is talking about...

Doesn't sound like you have the air gap Parkflyer.. so a high loop is probably going to work best... but as Ballenger said... can't hurt to ask the inspector to be sure...

MARK

I am always impressed with the pics you and Tom can attach. Teach me how.

Anytime Bob!

I'll send you information on how I do it... look for it!

Nicely done! I definitely do not have an air gap! I have the disposal hook-up. The only thing I have that you don't show is a studervent in the drain to the wall. My dishwasher line is a high loop over the cabinet side. Hope they didn't slip somethig past the inspector.

Thanks,

Hope they didn't slip somethig past the inspector.
If the imspector passed the job with the AAV installed you have nothing to worry about. Good luck, Tom

Thanks for all your help guys. I'm an electrical guy so I like working with my hands, just don't know much about plumbing and this drain stuff is complicated.

I spoke with the inspector again. He told me the icemaker with a condensate pump can be installed like the dishwasher with a high loop. He said air gaps were required if I had a gravity drain. It doesn't matter but I'm a curious guy so I'll ask.

He said in a gravity drain the air gap is to prevent the gray water from entering the icemaker if there was a drain plug. They want the nasty stuff to run on the floor before entering the icemaker. He said an air gap is not required when using a pump.

What I don't understand is how gray water is kept out of the condensate pump with the high loop. Only if the loop was higher than the counter top would it prevent gray water from entering the icemaker. That way if there was a plug in the drain it would back up and out the sink. But the loop will be under the cabinet so a backup would travel through the loop before it backs up high enough to exit the sink via the countertop.

The only thing I can think is the condensate pump is not sealed and the backup will exit the pump somehow and not enter the icemaker. It's all very confusing.

Hey Mark,

Please add me to your list of how to make the pics, would be greatly appriciated, Thanks in advance.

Best Regards,
John

In post #2 you said I was very helpful but then gave me a reddie for inaccurate, what's up with that?

afaroo

Open picture with paint. Crop if possible. Reduce size if necessary. To do so, click on Image, choose stretch/skew. Reduce width and heigth by same percentage. Save as JPG. Repeat if necessary to get file down to acceptable size. The JPG file format is most important part.

Ballenger,

Because I'm an idiot! I hit the wrong button by mistake. I tried to edit it but the system wouldn't let me. I tried to post a rebuttal and the system said I had to rate others first. Sorry about that.

Yes, once you rate someone you have to give 5 others a rating before you can come back to the first guy, me. Maybe some other day.

Am I right in my assumption?

I am a bit foggy, can you tell me your assumption again?

Trying to understand drain requirements. Question is below.



Thanks for all your help guys. I'm an electrical guy so I like working with my hands, just don't know much about plumbing and this drain stuff is complicated.

I spoke with the inspector again. He told me the icemaker with a condensate pump can be installed like the dishwasher with a high loop. He said air gaps were required if I had a gravity drain. It doesn't matter but I'm a curious guy so I'll ask.

He said in a gravity drain the air gap is to prevent the gray water from entering the icemaker if there was a drain plug. They want the nasty stuff to run on the floor before entering the icemaker. He said an air gap is not required when using a pump.

What I don't understand is how gray water is kept out of the icemaker with the high loop. Only if the loop was higher than the counter top would it prevent gray water from entering the icemaker. That way if there was a plug in the drain it would back up and out the sink. But the loop will be under the cabinet so a backup would travel through the loop before it backs up high enough to exit the sink via the countertop.

The only thing I can think is the condensate pump is not sealed and the backup will exit the pump somehow and not enter the icemaker. It's all very confusing.

I guess you mean you thoughts on the condensate pump not being sealed. I would agree the likelihood of a back up reaching the ice maker is almost non-existent. However, building inspectors come in many flavors so you try to work with them, do it his way since he will do the inspection. No wee wee matches with skunks, you always loose.