I ripped out the shower pan because water got under it and rotted some shims. This happened because the shower's 2" drain fitting was just loosely dumping the water into the 4" drain.

I need to hook a shower pan to what looks like just a 4" cast iron floor drain. There is no flange or bell. I considered a Fernco made for PVC which somewhat fits, but I don't think it will pass any kind of pressure test. It also seems like I might be able to lead-in a 2" cast iron pipe into the 4" pipe, but I still need to hook a 2" cast-iron to the drain somehow. I suppose I could also chisel concrete, but this seems further down the slippery slope..

Any ideas?

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9439/img7052nj3.jpg (http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9439/img7052nj3.jpg)
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/7247/img7050yf5.jpg (http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/7247/img7050yf5.jpg)

I don't think there is a p-trap for the shower! If I were doing it. I would bust out enough of the slab to dig a hole big enough to install the trap. You can cut the cast and use a banded fitting to attach PVC and reduce that down to whatever is needed. It's more work but doing it right means it will outlast you. Good luck with it.

There is some nasty "water" about 10" down, so I think this indicates there is some sort of p-trap in there, right? It's hard to see in those 2 pics but there is water in the pipe. It will also oscillate slightly when the toilet is flushed or sink is run as the water travels down the pipe toward the ejector pit. Actually, I didn't include a head on shot showing the " down, so I think this indicates there is some sort of p-trap in there, right? It's hard to see in those 2 pics but there is water in the pipe. It will also oscillate slightly when the toilet is flushed or sink is run as the water travels down the pipe toward the ejector pit. Actually, I didn't include a head on shot showing the " because it's quite gross..


I don't think there is a p-trap for the shower !! If I were doing it. I would bust out enough of the slab to dig a hole big enough to install the trap. You can cut the cast and use a banded fitting to attach PVC and reduce that down to whatever is needed. It's more work but doing it right means it will outlast you. Good luck with it.

I don't see anything to connect to up near the floor line. Is that a piece of cast iron I see farther on in there? If you put a stick down there and it comes back with about three inches of water on it then chances are you're trapped.

I considered a Fernco made for PVC which somewhat fits, but I don't think it will pass any kind of pressure test. There will be no pressure on the drain. Your problem will be connecting the coupling.

It also seems like I might be able to lead-in a 2" cast iron pipe into the 4" pipe, But you shot that down when you said,
There is no flange or bell..
You had the right idea at first but you're going to hafta take out enough cement to connect a 4" Fernco Shielded Coupling ,(see image) to the cast iron pipe and connect a 4 X 2" PVC ruducing bushing and convert to 2" PVC to pick up the shower drain. Good luck, Tom

Wow ! I haven't installed a shower pan for a few years and didn't know they were making the banded coupling that would reduce the 4" to 2". I don't think I will ever do any more re-models, but am glad for the information. Be sure and fill the pipe with rags before breaking any concrete. I know it's obvious but sometimes we forget something simple and cost ourselves a lot of work. Again, good luck.

The cast-iron has taken on a sandy color so it's hard to tell from the pic, but the cast iron actually goes up flush w/ the floor. If you look close you can see a line at the bottom of the pipe picture. I believe this line is where the trap bell meets the 4" pipe that was knocked off flush w/ the floor.

Air chiseling is what I was afraid of. I'm still afraid.. although maybe I won't hit dirt or crack the pipe..

As for the leading option, I have never leaded any joints, why can't a 2" pipe be leaded into a 4" pipe w/o a bell?

And for the fernco donut option to prevent busting concrete, when I originally tried this it fit snug but leaked around the donut-cast-iron interface when I plugged the 4" pipe and filled the 2" with water above the donut. I imagine this is a problem? Could this be a practical alternative if I ground the rust off or loaded it up w/ silicone caulk?


I don't see anything to connect to up near the floor line. Is that a piece of cast iron I see farther on in there? If you put a stick down there and it comes back with about three inches of water on it then chances are you're trapped.
There will be no pressure on the drain. Your problem will be connecting the coupling.
But you shot that down when you said, .
You had the right idea at first but you're gonna hafta take out enough cement to connect a 4" Fernco Shielded Coupling ,(see image) to the cast iron pipe and connect a 4 X 2" PVC ruducing bushing and convert to 2" PVC to pick up the shower drain. Good luck, Tom

Firstshower:

How this you end up installing the shower base? I have the Same situation right now and am hoping to copy whatever worked for you.

Thanks in advance!
edbreyer

I forgot to add the PVC 4 X 2 Reducing Coupling that you will convert to PVC with, (see image). Here you go. Good luck, Tom