Questions concerning disconnects, bonding jumpers, and hub connectors. My remodeling plans changed since previous posts. I researched my NEC book and got the main info, but I would appreciate some answers as to “details”.

Panel board will now be located more than ten feet from the meter, so a disconnect will be installed at the old panel board location-appx. Two feet from the meter. Panel board is a main breaker unit and will be connected to the disconnect via conduit. The system is grounded via a connection at the meter.

Disconnect- plan on using a Sq D QO2100NRBCP. This is simply an enclosed 100 amp breaker rated for outdoor use. I know the NEC allows indoor use if they meet the environmental conditions present. It does not have a switch, contrary to what the internet shows.

Question- Is this unit acceptable as a disconnect, or any other recommendations?

Hub connectors/bonding- I will be using bonding jumpers, per Article 100, as both the panel and disconnect have eccentric knock outs, the latter also having a hub. As to hub bonding couldn't find specifics on hubs (searched numerous NEC articles, missed it?), but 250 .92(B)(2) appears to address it. So…….

Questions

1.Since a hub connector physically screws to the enclosure, and the rigid threads into the hub, is that considered adequately bonded per the above NEC reference?

2. I will be using two disconnects and referenced 250.24, 408.40 and various posts on this board. - From the way I read the NEC and the post responses, only the first, or main disconnect, should have the enclosure/equipment ground bonded to the neutral bar, and the downstream main breaker panel board neutral bar should remain isolated from ground, per 408.40, to prevent current in the neutral/ground conductors from taking parallel paths. Yes? No?

3.The conduit run will have some compression couplings. Any “real world” preference of using grounded insulated bushings verses running a ground conductor in the conduit to bond the enclosures?

Torque values-Is there any listing in the NEC (again searched, could have missed) or anywhere else, for general torque values for screws that hold terminated wires? My meter socket uses 3/8” screws but there are no labels/tags/info anywhere indicating torque values. My shop manuals list torque values for common bolt sizes, but I'm not sure if this would apply to electrical use. I suspect that torque values are manufacturer/product specific :( .

The circuit breaker and enclosure is fine to be used as the service disconnecting means. Why using a NEMA 3R raintite? It can be installed indoors, just costs more than NEMA1.

The bolted hub on top of the enclosure satifies bonding the raceway containing service entrance conductors, which are those from the meter to the diconnect. This edition of the code has been re-written, the older ones actually addressed a hub with machine screws.

Correct, only at the enclosure that contains the first service disconnecting means (Main Breaker) shall the neutral and equipment ground be connected, along wiyth main bonding jumper and grounding electrode conductor.

Raceway using compression fittings may suffice as continuity of equipment ground alnog with the raceway, as long as the fittings are listed as such. Nowadays, even if they are, a separate equipment grounding conductor is pulled through all raceway.

This will exceed code, which is always recommended,but is a common practice to insure continuity in the event a fitting becomes loose.

If the meter socket does not have the label I would have to think it fell off. I would think if you look for the data sheet for the meter at the manufacturers website you can find it.

Torqueing a bolt may be different that a wire pressure connector, so try to find the meter's data sheet.

Thanks tk-your info, as usual, always most helpful. I now try to research as much as I can in my code book ( it cost enough :eek: )-but at times it’s good to hear from a seasoned pro.

The NEMA 3R is the only thing available at the big box store in a 100 amp disconnect. I’ll try the local electrical supply house, but since I don’t have a commercial account they’ll probably want big $$$$.

Your reasoning on the separate ground conductor reinforced my initial way of thinking-providing a continuous ground should fittings become loose.

The meter is from 1966 so any data tags long gone. I’ll search the Westinghouse web site to see if I can find anything.

Some distributors will sell to the public. Personally I don' t mind if they don't. Their purpose is to sell wholesale to contractors. But it is a different time, what with the big box stores selling everything under the sun.

Don't bother looking for a Westinghouse website for electrical gear. It is now Eaton, which markets Cutler Hammer, same gear and parts as Westinghouse.

Products (http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Markets/Electrical/Products/index.htm)

Find a similar meter and use the torquing ratings.

Competition for some of these distributors must be rough. In the AM the local home depot & menards are packed with tradesmen loading up on materials. Thanks for the update on Westinghouse...