We have a three knob shower system. When the water runs into the tub a significant amount of water runs out of the central diverter valve (?correct term) knob. When this is turned water is diverted to the shower head.
How does one determine how to remove and replace the diverter assembly, or could it be something simpler ( O- ring, loose screw)
Thanks in advance
Paul McC

We have a three knob shower system. When the water runs into the tub a significant amount of water runs out of the central diverter valve (?correct term) knob. When this is turned water is diverted to the shower head.
How does one determine how to remove and replace the diverter assembly, or could it be something simpler ( O- ring, loose screw)
Thanks in advance
Paul McC

Hi Paul,

Before you tear into that valve try this. Remove the knob and the chrome cover plate. You will see a brass nut on the stem. This will be the bonnet packing nut. Turn on the valve and open the diverter. Water should now be coming out around the stem. Now start to snug up that brass nut until the leak stops. All better now? Cheers, Tom PS - if that don't get it click on back.

Toms advice sounds very good. To see a diagram of a typical 3 handle shower valve go here http://www.plumbinglessons.com/sup/showervalve.htm
Regards: Darrel

Tom and Darrel-
Thanks so much for your advice. Unfortunately, turning the screw you mentioned did nothing to slow the flow of water from the central knob. The screw did turn several times and did become tighter. I did not turn it until it would turn no longer. Am apprehensive re. what. Was I just chicken and did not quite finish the job. Should I keep turning or if that were the solution, should I have seen some difference already.
Thanks for your time and wisdom
Paul McCauley

Tom and Darrel-
Thanks so much for your advice. Unfortunately, turning the screw you mentioned did nothing to slow the flow of water from the central knob. The screw did turn several times and did become tighter. I did not turn it until it would turn no longer. Am apprehensive re. ?what. Was I just chicken and did not quite finish the job. Should I keep turning or if that were the solution, should I have seen some difference already.
Thanks for your time and wisdom
Paul McCauley


Hi Paul, What nut didi you tighten? The inside one, (see Darrells pix.) or the outside one. It should be the inside one that you snug up. Is that the one you tightened. If not go back and do it again. If you tightened the inside nut and the leak didn't stop then tell me and we'll open up the valve and replace the packing. Regards, Tom

Tom-
I did tighten the inside nut. It was quite loose when I started and took several turns. It was still able to be tightened some, but I think I am a little apprehensive about tightening too much. I had the water running as I tightened. There was no appreciable difference in the leak. Am I just too timid? Can I do anything bad (leak inside the wall, etc.) if I just keep turning even though the resistance to turning has definitely increased considerably?
Thanks again for your time and wisdom.
Paul McC

Tom-
I did tighten the inside nut. It was quite loose when I started and took several turns. It was still able to be tightened some, but I think I am a little apprehensive about tightening too much. I had the water running as I tightened. There was no appreciable difference in the leak. Am I just too timid? Can I do anything bad (leak inside the wall, etc.) if I just keep turning even though the resistance to turning has definitely increased considerably?
Thanks again for your time and wisdom.
Paul McC


Hi Paul,

The leak is coming from around the stem isn't it? If it is then take the smaller nut off and remove and replace the packing. Once the packing's rewplaced snug up that brass nut until the water stops coming from around the stem. Cheers, Tom

Tom-
Thanks for your patience with me. I am trying to do this repair on an "extra" shower, so no rush. We also have two seriously ill close friends and are involved there also. Makes a leaking shower valve seem pretty trivial.
When I turn the knob to divert the flow of water from the spout to the shower, the entire stem wobbles considerably. A similar shower in another bath room does not do this. Does this indicate something else to you? Is this something I should get a plumber for? This could possibly be the problem.
If I am going to "remove the stem", how are the metal sleeves surrounding the stem attached to the stem or tile wall, and do they stay there and just the stem comes out? Does the stem assembly unscrew or just slip into place?
Thanks for your patience.
Paul

Tom-
Thanks for your patience with me. I am trying to do this repair on an "extra" shower, so no rush. We also have two seriously ill close friends and are involved there also. Makes a leaking shower valve seem pretty trivial.
When I turn the knob to divert the flow of water from the spout to the shower, the entire stem wobbles considerably. A similar shower in another bath room does not do this. Does this indicate something else to you? Is this something I should get a plumber for? This could quite possibly be the problem.
If I am going to "remove the stem", how are the metal sleeves surrounding the stem attached to the stem or tile wall, and do they stay there and just the stem comes out? Does the stem assembly unscrew or just slip into place?
Thanks for your patience.
Paul

No thanks necessary Paul,

You're not going to remove the stem. You're going to replace the stems bonnet packing. Take the smaller nut off and remove and replace the packing. Once the packing's replaced snug up that brass nut until the water stops coming from around the stem. Go for it! Tom

Folks, I have a similar problem: When the diverter is turned to "tub", water leaks out the shower head. The sealing washer at the back of the diverter valve is clearly defective. Now - here's the rub: this is 1939 original plumbing. Whe I began my project, I decided to also replace the sealing washers on both the hot and cold valves. This worked fine. Then, when I tried to remove the diverter valve things went downhill...

I removed two separate brass fittings before I got to the last fitting with the square nut. Finally, this too came out. Alas, the diverter valve could STILL not be removed. It "unscrews" approximately 1 turn, then stops. There is absolutely NOTHING I can see holding the valve in place, but it will not pull out (I almost crashed throgh the back of the wall I pulled so hard). I have TWICE gone through this process, with exactly the same results. Do I need some sort of a shaft puller?

I've even taken pictures of the valve in place and taken them to a plumbing supply shop only to hear the comment: "Boy, looks like it should pull right out!". Guess I got what I paid for. In any event, can anyone give me any guidance here? I'm including a photo of this darned valve, still in the wall if that helps! Thanks in advance!

6366

6365

To go with previous response.

Boy, looks like it should pull right out.



Sorry but I couldn't resist.

First you really should start you own thread. You'll get lost back here on the end of someone else's thread. Second its for sure that it either pulls out or screws out. By you description you have pulled pretty hard. It still might be corroded in and a little lubricant might help. How hard did you try turning it (counter clock) after removing the packing nut. The whole thing might be screwed in.

Boy, looks like it should pull right out.



Sorry but I couldn't resist.

First you really should start you own thread. You'll get lost back here on the end of someone else's thread. Second its for sure that it either pulls out or screws out. By you description you have pulled pretty hard. It still might be corroded in and a little lubricant might help. How hard did you try turning it (counter clock) after removing the packing nut. The whole thing might be screwed in.

I put a pipe wrench on the valve stem. Then, I turned CCW so hard the shaft started flexing and I knew any more force would shear the shaft off. I have also squirted WD40 in the area as well. There is clearly a "captive thread" keeping the valve from completely unscrewing. I've even gone in and tried to grind out this last thread with a Dremel tool, but still to no avail. If I just knew whether it should pull OR twist out I'd apply more pressure. However, to pull any harder I'll need some sort of a shaft puller.

Bur my BIGGEST fear is somehow finding that brute force does nothing bu destroy the vale - at which time I'm in deep do-do. There is no shut off valve to this plumbing so all the water to thehouse is off anytime I try to work with this thing. I'm even tempted to call a plumber, but I'm afraid he'll say; "Boy, looks like it should pull right out"!

I agree, wait until Tom get here, he will kmow. He knows everything.

Again, sorry about the wisecrack, just had to do it.

I wonder, could it have a left hand thread?

Thanks Harold. Tom seems like "The Man"! BTW, would it do me any good to start a new thread as you first suggested?

Yes, probably so. Us old people get confused easily.
Did you try unscrewing by turning clockwise?