I have a 94 honda accord dx, the car cranks but won't start I just put in new fuel pump and main relay, when I put my key into the on position I hear no sound from the fuel pump when I turn on the a.c I can hear the fuel pump power up for 3 seconds crank it still no start.

Does the Check Engine Light stay on, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?

Sometimes it shows the check engine light and sometimes it don't but when when I crank it does the same, OK it happens when I drove it on a hot day the car was so engine was so hot when I touch the dashboard I nearly burn my hands, do you think I need a new distributor and spark plugs, my distributor is very old the wires is very hard when I bend it a little it breaks, I connect back the wires and tape it, my oil is very black now too and whenever my spark plug gets burnt I scrap the burnt part.

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Usually, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM. Based on your description, you should also replace the rotor, distributor cap, wires, and spark plugs (NGK only).

Im just going to get a new distributor because this one is very defective all the wires are hard and brittle I put new wires and just tape them, my fuel pump doesn't prime when I put the key to the on position but when I turn on the a.c it primes why it is that? I just put in a new fuel pump 4 days ago, and my gas is low do I need to put more gas?

You definitely want to have more than a token amount of gas in the tank. Also, be sure to only buy a genuine Honda distributor--others have proven to be junk. Mark the distributor and distributor mount, prior to removal, so the timing won't be off when you install the new distributor.

A new distributor or remanufacture one?

I would also check The Ignition Switch, removing some plastic will allow a couple of quick test, the contacts are on the opposite side of the steering column of the Key switch.
Or, you could test the large Plugs, that plug in Above Fuse Panel whichever is easier to get to, follow down from steering column to find.
White is Constant Hot, Black/Yellow is Ignition, a test light will help.

In addition, Ig could also be a White with black, and NOT to be confused with Black/White, which is starter, Accessory would be Yellow

Only go with a new distributor, manufactured by Honda.

How does the ignition switch module look like can you provide picture please, its located under and connected to the steering column right?

I just install new distributor and spark plug and it still won't start, now do you think it's the ignition switch module?

Did you mark the distributor, so the timing would be close to what it was before? If not, loosen the three distributor mounting bolts and rotate the distributor slightly counter-clockwise to advance the timing.

You never said whether the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). You also never said that you can hear the fuel pump run during that interval.

Be sure to test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter. If the CEL stays on, check for codes.

You mention it "primes" in ACC, Not IG, That makes me think you aren't getting power from Ignition switch,
White B+
Yellow ACC
Black/Yellow IG
White/Black IG
Yellow ACC
Black/White Start
Have you tested the Ignition switch at all?

Can I test the igniyion switch with a test light and what color of wires do I put it at on the ignition switch?

I put my key to the on position ll and the fuel pump doesn't prime but when I turn on the heater/ac it primes.

The cel comes on for 3 seconds then goes away.

A test light is perfect, as is a meter.
Connect the ground of the test lead to a good ground.
Try a couple of fuses to verify the tester is working(lights up).
Refer to 2:28 PM Post above and the light should work in each of the conditions yellow will light tester when in Accessory Position and so on.
I have seen it enough on those years of Hondas to suspect it, and your symptoms seem to match.
Good Luck.

Thanks, do I need to put my key in and leave it to the on position while testing it?

Yes,
To test acc, turn key one click, you should have voltage on the wire,
Turn key to Ignition(2 clicks), you should have voltage on the Black/yellow, and/or Black/White.
When you turn Key to Start, you should have volyage on the Black/white wire.
Don't get the Black/white and the White/black confused.

If all under hood and under dash fuses are good, particularly the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in the under dash fuse box, and the ignition switch is okay, you should be getting close to the car starting.

When you turn on the heater/ac, and the fuel pump primes, will the engine start afterwards? If not, I suspect the ignition switch or a fuse. You are very close to the car starting.

No it still won't start it just cranks, the fuse are OK, I think it's the ignition switch but it looks new though.

Did you install the same main relay (identical part no.) as originally came in the car? What caused you to replace the main relay?

Have you cleaned the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing?

Wp

Excellent Info, and Great flowchart for troubleshooting Hondas, and most other cars from TXGreasemonkey.
If you have trouble accessing the back of the ignition switch, which is straight through and on the other side of the key switch, other side of steering column, then you can test above the Fuse Panel, 2 Plugs containing the Ignition wire colors mentioned earlier, whichever you can get too. Eliminating this test, will not eleminate any ignition switch problem.

Is the pgm-fi main relay on the steering column or next to the emergency light dash? Can I resolder it?

It's located to the right or the steering column. Turning the ignition switch on and off will help you locate the main relay, by allowing you to hear and feel it "click." Main relays often have 7 wires going to them.

It's best to install a new main relay every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

OK thanks, my brother bought this car new since 1994 then gave it to my dad on 2000 and then pass it to me on 2010 and never did change the ignition switch, when on hot days when the dash gets really hot does the ignition switch worn out?