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New Member
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Apr 21, 2012, 08:31 PM
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Removing john deere rear tire
I have a 1990 John Deere model 170 garden tractor - 18 HP Kohler motor w 38 inch deck.
About to replace disc brake pads and need to remove right rear tire for access.
Rim has no mounting bolts showing, just a 2 inch plastic cap in the center - removing plastic cap shows snap ring.
Back of rim extends 4 - 5 inches oveer shaft to transaxel housing - no sign of bolt through rim/axel or of key.
Any hints on removing tire/rim from axel?
Thanks,
Pete
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New Member
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Apr 21, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Pull the plastic cap off, then pull the key off, then the washer. When you put it back together, make sure the notch inside the key is lined up to the grove in the axle or the mower will not go in gear. It will be like it stays in neutral.
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New Member
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Apr 21, 2012, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by diane1966
Pull the plastic cap off, then pull the key off, then the washer. When you put it back together, make sure the notch inside the key is lined up to the grove in the axle or the mower will not go in gear. It will be like it stays in neutral.
That's what I had to do
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Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
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Apr 22, 2012, 10:21 AM
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Hi,
One must remove the snap ring first, then whatever washers are beneath it, try to slide wheel/tire off. The aforementioned key will either stay in axle or wheel; just do not loose track of it. That is an older machine, so best of luck sliding the wheel off.
Someone must have worked on this on already since it came with a 14HP FC420V Kawasaki engine when new.
Peace,
Clarke
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New Member
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Sep 27, 2012, 02:52 AM
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Hi,
Yes, I have the problem where the wheel has seized on the axle. I have applied many applications of good quality penetrating Anti-Seize fluid, and am still not able to remove wheel (even with as heavy tapping as I dare). Any suggestions to loosen the stubborn wheel?
Cheers
Steve
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Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
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Sep 29, 2012, 08:08 AM
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Hi,
I have seen them stuck so bad that the owner replaced the wheels and the transaxle. This if it has never been off. You say a good penetrant. There are some better than others; ones by Kimball-Midwest, Larch, Lawson and Nut Buster are all virtually the same and pricey. They are non-flammable and have a sweet smell. They are the best I have seen. Seen and done the cutting torch method on wheels and engine double sheaves.
Peace,
Clarke
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