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    lanfarm's Avatar
    lanfarm Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Oct 19, 2011, 03:12 PM
    How do I remove a Rainsoft water softener?
    Does anyone have any instructions on how to remove a RainSoft system from my house? Leaks, don't need it, and dealer wants over $3,000 to install a new one. Just want to get rid of it and put the plumbing back like it needs to be. Thanks
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
    Plumbing Expert
     
    #2

    Oct 19, 2011, 03:50 PM
    Simply (ha ha, like anything is simple) shut of the water to the house, drain the pressure off the system, then cut the incoming and outgoing pipes from the softener, make sure to cut them at equal distance from softener. Next you will need to 90s of the correct size, and a short piece of piping to go between them. Basically, just hook the incoming of the softener, to the outgoing of the softener, and you will have bypassed the softener. You could just put the softener on bypass, but over time the valves tend to fail and you will have water leaking out of the softener connection points if the softener is removed. Hope this all makes sense, and Im betting one of the other pros here will be able to make it a little more clear.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #3

    Oct 19, 2011, 03:53 PM
    There should be a bypass valve that allows water to directly flow through. Switch to bypass and if the leak stops, leave it like that. If it is still leaking you will need someone to disconnect the plumbing and insert a connector. This may be a DIY job depending on how it was installed. You may be able to install a 3/4 compression to 1/2 IP and then a strainless flex hose or a double compression and a straight piece of 3/4 copper or CPVC whatever you have.
    lanfarm's Avatar
    lanfarm Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Oct 19, 2011, 06:33 PM
    Thanks, guys. Just wanted to make sure the red and blue pex tubing is all that connects the system to my water supply. If it is only those two tubes, I should be able to do it with the proper tools and supplies. I have had the bypass on for a couple of years and, when I move that valve to the other position, the system leaks. Takes up room I could use for something else and would like to get it out of there.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #5

    Oct 20, 2011, 02:30 PM
    If it is PEX, the work around is easy. Make sure you get the proper sized rings and crimping tool.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
    Plumbing Expert
     
    #6

    Oct 20, 2011, 03:08 PM
    Or if you want, you could just get a couple sharbite 90s (or any brand push fit fitting) and slap them on with a short piece of pex in the middle. No tools required this way.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #7

    Oct 21, 2011, 02:28 PM
    I use Gator and Sharkbite but so far only with Copper and CPVC. For whatever reason, PEX usage and the fitting scare me, particularly in concealed spaces.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
    Plumbing Expert
     
    #8

    Oct 24, 2011, 03:33 PM
    They work great on pex and even the old quest pipes too, just make sure to use the plastic insert(sleeve). Im with you ma, I wouldn't suggest ever installing them in a concealed space on any type of pipe, even though many areas do allow them to be used in concealed areas.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #9

    Oct 24, 2011, 07:19 PM
    Another thing that causes issues it the fact that they will rotate around a pipe. I didn't think of that when I replaced an outside faucet for a neighbor who had extended the piping. After I used a sharkbite and a new faucet, the da#* thing would spin around.

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