[Vicki T]

I bought a one-piece Lasco shower enclosure as part of finishing the basement bathroom. The PVC drain is plumbed in and sticks up about 6" out of the floor. There is also a large diameter black corrugated "hose" around it (I guess for when they poured the concrete floor around it.) I can cut this black hose back to the floor, right? Then what do I need to buy to install the drain? How short do I cut the drain PVC? I hook up the drain first and then put the casting plaster or mortar under it? Do this at the same time? Help, I'm a newbie to shower installation. But I really want to do this myself.
Thanks to anyone for a reply. Any reply.

[speedball1]

I bought a one-piece Lasco shower enclosure as part of finishing the basement bathroom. The PVC drain is plumbed in and sticks up about 6" out of the floor. There is also a large diameter black corrugated "hose" around it (I guess for when they poured the concrete floor around it.) I can cut this black hose back to the floor, right? Then what do I need to buy to install the drain? How short do I cut the drain PVC? I hook up the drain first and then put the casting plaster or mortar under it? Do this at the same time? Help, I'm a newbie to shower installation. But I really want to do this myself.
Thanks to anyone for a reply. Any reply.

Hi Vicki,

Cut the drain stubup about 1 1/2" up into the drain, (but not over the top). Cut the hose back to floor level or simply rerove it. It's just there to create space around the stubup in case you have to countersink a drain hookup.
Do not forget to prime both the inside of the drain and the stubup before you glue. Look on the bottom of the shower base. If there are supports you may not have to pour supporting cemrnt or mortar. How about the water? What are you doing there? Cheers, Tom

[Vicki T]

Thank you so much for the response (and so quickly)!
So I cut the stubup off 1 1/2 inches from the point it exits the floor? And then I just buy the drain and glue of some kind? Any gaskets and fittings necessary come with the drain? I read one of your posts from April and got the order of strainer/threaded drain with small rope of plumbers putty/shower/rubber gasket/friction washer/retaining nut/stub up from trap. Does the retaining nut lock onto the stub up as it tightens?
There are no supports under the shower. The directions from the manufacturer say to make a lip for the front with some 2X4s - I'm planning on using treated wood for that. The manufacturer says support isn't needed as it's rated up to 300 lbs. Problem is: 2 people in the shower easily exceeds that weight. I'm not trying to sound like a weirdob but it is conceivable that 2 house guests might shower together. SO... I want some support under there. The water supply for the upper story bathroom runs right by where I'm putting in the vanity. I figured I'd run it over to the shower in the wall from that point. (The water supply lines are flexible, which was a surprise to me - new house.) I'd be tapping into the water supply lines for the toilet, vanity and shower at the same point. That's OK?
Oh, and the basement uses a grinder and lift pump, but I had the builder connect the rough-in for this bathroom into all that (washer is already on it.).
Thank you, Tom, you're great!
Do people post pictures of these projects AFTER they finish?
Vicki

[speedball1]

Thank you so much for the response (and so quickly)!
So I cut the stubup off 1 1/2 inches from the point it exits the floor? And then I just buy the drain and glue of some kind? Any gaskets and fittings necessary come with the drain? I read one of your posts from April and got the order of strainer/threaded drain with small rope of plumbers putty/shower/rubber gasket/friction washer/retaining nut/stub up from trap. Does the retaining nut lock onto the stub up as it tightens?
There are no supports under the shower. The directions from the manufacturer say to make a lip for the front with some 2X4s - I'm planning on using treated wood for that. The manufacturer says support isn't needed as it's rated up to 300 lbs. Problem is: 2 people in the shower easily exceeds that weight. I'm not trying to sound like a weirdob but it is conceivable that 2 house guests might shower together. SO... I want some support under there. The water supply for the upper story bathroom runs right by where I'm putting in the vanity. I figured I'd run it over to the shower in the wall from that point. (The water supply lines are flexible, which was a surprise to me - new house.) I'd be tapping into the water supply lines for the toilet, vanity and shower at the same point. That's OK?
Oh, and the basement uses a grinder and lift pump, but I had the builder connect the rough-in for this bathroom into all that (washer is already on it.).
Thank you, Tom, you're great!
Do people post pictures of these projects AFTER they finish?
Vicki

Good morning Vicki,

The Lasco shower bases that I checkd on came with the drains furnished but if you need to know more about PVC drains click on, http://www.lawsupply.net/odds_ends/drains/
You asked," So I cut the stubup off 1 1/2 inches from the point it exits the floor? And then I just buy the drain and glue of some kind? Any gaskets and fittings necessary come with the drain? I read one of your posts from April and got the order of strainer/threaded drain with small rope of plumbers putty/shower/rubber gasket/friction washer/retaining nut/stub up from trap. Does the retaining nut lock onto the stub up as it tightens?"
No Vicki, You cut the stub up off about 1 1/2" up into the PVC drain after it's been installed so you have enough s6tock to mahe a glue joint. ( Don't forget to prime all PVc before gluing).
The retaining secures the drain and compresses the rope of putty or silicon jel making a seal at the drain lip. You will glue the stubup to the drain when you set the shower stall in place.
You also posted, "The manufacturer says support isn't needed as it's rated up to 300 lbs. Problem is: 2 people in the shower easily exceeds that weight. I'm not trying to sound like a weirdob but it is conceivable that 2 house guests might shower together".
That's not "weird"! The GF and I do it all the time. We want to do our part to conserve water, (wink-wink, nudge! ) Besides that, it's a hellava way to start, (or end) the day.
If you have the room you could box in the base and run cross members with pressure treated 2 X 4's for added weight and parties.
I'd love to see a picture of your finished work. As a rule all I get to look at is tore up basements and open pipes.

have a great Sunday, Tom

[Vicki T]

Thank you so much, Tom. It really helped me to go LOOK AT the shower drains. NOW I see how the stubup actually connects in to the drain.
OK, I leveled the shower where it's now sitting. The bottom of the shower (at the drain hole) is only 7/8" over the surface of the floor. If I install the drain in the shower unit then the shower unit won't sit up level by itself, will it? So do I go ahead and cut off the stubup at 7/8"? This means that part of the drain assembly will be in the floor, doesn't it? In that void where I cut away the black hose. The stubup also sticks up out of the floor at a little bit of an angle. Is that going to make it hard to get the drain on it? Do I shim it a little to get it perpendicular?
I'm not normally this dense... the electrical work was not this challenging but my Dad taught me all that hands-on.
Thanks for all your help.
Vicki

[speedball1]

Thank you so much, Tom. It really helped me to go LOOK AT the shower drains. NOW I see how the stubup actually connects in to the drain.
OK, I leveled the shower where it's now sitting. The bottom of the shower (at the drain hole) is only 7/8" over the surface of the floor. If I install the drain in the shower unit then the shower unit won't sit up level by itself, will it? So do I go ahead and cut off the stubup at 7/8"? This means that part of the drain assembly will be in the floor, doesn't it? In that void where I cut away the black hose. The stubup also sticks up out of the floor at a little bit of an angle. Is that going to make it hard to get the drain on it? Do I shim it a little to get it perpendicular?
I'm not normally this dense... the electrical work was not this challenging but my Dad taught me all that hands-on.
Thanks for all your help.
Vicki

Hey Vicki,

That "black hose" around the stub up sounds like Armoflex insulation put there just so you would have room to glue in the drain. Dig it out.
You will cut the stub up off at least a inch and a quarter up into the drain. Figure how far the drain will extend under the floor line and go from there.
How much of a angle is the stub up leaning over? Enough so the drain will be tilted or can you connect and still keep the seal intact?
Have a greatSunday, Tom

[Vicki T]

Tom-
The stubup can be pushed over a little if I wood shim it. That should give me the room to get the drain down over it.
I think I've got it. I just need to go purchase the drain. I already have plumber's putty, PVC primer and PVC glue.
I'll post pictures as I go along.
THANK YOU! I feel much more confident now!
(I'll have to remember the "water-saver" reason.) ;)
Vicki

[Vicki T]

Tom-
I REALLY hate to bother you again. But. (There's always a but.)
I bought the drain. It's a Plumbest from Jones Stephens Corp. part no. D41-007. It's for a 2" schedule 40 DWV pipe. The problem is, it will be extending 2 1/4 inches below the bottom edge of the shower drain. When I sat the shower in the alcove over the shimmed stubup and marked where the stubup came into the shower, the marking is only 3/4 inch over the edge of the concrete floor. (There is an area inside the drain fixture for the 2" pipe but it's only 1" deep.) I will need to cut off the stubup 1/2" below the level of the floor. Does this make sense? How would I do that? Do I need a special tool? Do I need a different drain - one that is more shallow (not as tall)? I looked again at lawsupply.com and didn't see anything shorter.
Am I in over my head?
-Thought I had it...
Vicki

[Vicki T]

Ace Hardware had a "no-glue" drain that uses a "key" to tighten a gasket thingy around the stubup. The reason I got it is because it was a full 1" shallower. So, I installed drain, dry-fitted it over the stubup and was able to cut the stubup off at the floor and it fit right up into the gasket thingy about an inch (if it had been more the key wouldn't have fit in to tighten it). I laid in a few (alot) piles of drywall compound under it and put the stall in and tightened the drain onto the stubup. I screwed it to the back wall and still need to put the side walls in. The drywall compound seemed dry last night so I stepped in it to see how solid it was and it didn't creak or move or give in any way (only 120 lbs though).
On to the water supply!
THANKS TOM, YOU'RE GREAT!!
Vicki T