[acboardwalk]

I am replacing a tile floor in a stall shower. I hve come across two (2) products that are used under the tile. The tile would be cemented to the product used.One product is called HARDIBACKER and the other product is CEMENT BOARD. I am at a lose as too which product is better. Does anyone have experients with these products?

[maji]

I have used the hardibacker board for tiling in a tub/shower. I think it's great stuff. I used the 1/2" thick, 5' x 3' for the walls. I've seen it in 1/4" as well. I haven't tiled any floors so I don't know which thickness would be used for that (probably 1/4") They have cement screws to use for this type of material. I haven't had any problems in the year and a half since I put it up.

Just my 2 cents.

[tommytman]

Do not use either of those on a shower floor.

Go to johnbridge.com forums and look in the libbery there and you will find advice on what to do. Short story: build a shower pan... look into this carefully before you start it.

Post back if you can't find the johnbridge forums.

Tom

[PTflyer]

As tommyman says... you don't use concrete backer board on a shower floor... you need to do a pan/concrete pour(with pitch) before you can tile.

[Jamie88]

Actually neither for these products should be used in a shower floor. I assume that you have already installed your shower pan material. That is a poly type material like what is used in a swimming pool. This must be secured all around the walls about 6" or so up the walls, then must be attached at the drain. After this is in place, you cannot use cement board or hardibacker of any kind because you cannot attach it wiht nails as the manufacturer recommends. Also, your shower floor needs a slope for the water to drain properly. The only product that should be used is a portland cement/sand mix. You can by this premixed at your local home improvement warehoue. They will probably call it sand mix. the process of "mudding" a shower floor is a challenge even for professionals as the concrete mix must be built up around the walls and sloped to the drain. After the concrete bed is dry (normally 24 hours), the tile can be installed and grouted. Hope this helps

[nmwirez]

I am replacing a tile floor in a stall shower. I hve come across two (2) products that are used under the tile. The tile would be cemented to the product used.One product is called HARDIBACKER and the other product is CEMENT BOARD. I am at a lose as too which product is better. Does anyone have experients with these products?

Here is another option and generally one that is a lot easier to do. Determine the inside dimensions of the shower stall wall and see if there is a close match to standard molded shower pans that are available. Even if the wall is a bit off in one direction and a pan can be installed with the bottom course of tile stripped out, then you can build a frame work and 'Wonderboard' ledge over to the pan. This way, the pan has everything you need to make an easy transition. The ferro board is screwed into the framing before using a concrete sealer. Once all is in place then use a mastic sealer on the thinset and butter your tile pieces to set into place. Use a bullnose tile piece edge to over lap onto the pan lip. Be sure there is a silicone rubber sealant applied to the overlap area on the tile and pan lip. Make sure the pan is set onto the subfloor or existing tile without stripping away that tile except around where a new basket is to be installed for the drain to pan hookup. Nm

[doug238]

For many years the cement board was used exclusively. Then hardibacker came out as a lightweight, lower cost, easier to use alternative. That is what it is, an alternative.
As for a shower floor on pan material, I would be hesitant. The board may cut or nick the pan material. Most tile guys use a mix to do the pan. Some use the special mix made for a shower floor, some use sandmix which is cement and sand in one bag, and some use mortar mix which is brick mortar and sand in one bag. Using a mix allows it to form to your pan material without sharp edges.

[nmwirez]

for many years the cement board was used exclusively. then hardibacker came out as a lightweight, lower cost, easier to use alternative. that is what it is, an alternative.
as for a shower floor on pan material, i would be hesitant. the board may cut or nick the pan material. most tile guys use a mix to do the pan. some use the special mix made for a shower floor, some use sandmix which is cement and sand in one bag, and some use mortar mix which is brick mortar and sand in one bag. using a mix allows it to form to your pan material without sharp edges.

Sorry doug238, I would be skeptical also. Maybe my description was not very good. Do not use any board over the existing tile flooring base. The pan I described is a stand alone pan that does not get tiled or grouted. It is basically a resin mold shower stall finished smooth fiberglass base. The base 1" lip is about 4" up and gets nailed into the framing surround. Then the wall gets re-tiled down and over the lip. I hope this is a little clearer. Nm

[speedball1]

Do not use either of those on a shower floor.

Go to johnbridge.com forums and look in the libbery there and you will find advice on what to do. Short story: build a shower pan...look into this carefully before you start it.

Post back if you can't find the johnbridge forums.

Tom

I'm with tommytman,

When we went from forming sheet lead shower pans to plastic we used Compaseal plastic to pan out our showers. We folded our corners with no seams and ran them up 6 or 8" up the wall. I fail to see where cement board or hard backer can be installed without any seams. I don't care if you caulk the seams or not. A seam in a shower pan is just asking for a leak on down the line. Regards, Tom

[doug238]

To add to my previous answer... some of the new [younger] tile guys actually are using the hardibacker inside the pan. I personally am not comfy with it.