[Ohio_Remodeler]

This is a vent/drain setup I'm replacing. Currently, the drain is 1.5" PVC. The vent is 2" cast iron. Do I replace the whole thing with 2" PVC? Or do I replace the drain with 1.5" PVC and the vent with 2" PVC?

For the vent I have pointed to with the "Connector Type?" arrow - I am planning on cutting this in half. It attaches to the 4" cast iron at the botton right of the pic. What type of connector do I use to go from 2" cast iron to 2" PVC?

The vent here is venting a sink and a toilet in a bathroom on the other side of this wall.

I need to follow International Plumbing Code 2003.

[speedball1]

You will run both the vent and the drain in 2" PVC. You will pick up the lav with a 2 X 2 X 1 1/2" sanitary tee and vent off the top of it. If I were going to convert to Pvc I would take a 2" sanitary tee, (see image) and prime and glue two short pieces of PVC pipe in the ends. I would then use two No-Hub Couplings, (see image) to connect the tee to the cast iron. Since I work off the .Standard Plumbing Code lets hear from experts working off IPC. Regards, Tom

[iamgrowler]

You will run both the vent and the drain in 2" PVC. You will pick up the lav with a 2 X 2 X 1 1/2" sanitary tee and vent off the top of it. If I were going to convert to Pvc I would take a 2" sanitary tee, (see image) and prime and glue two short pieces of PVC pipe in the ends. I would then use two No-Hub Couplings, (see image) to connect the tee to the cast iron. Since I work off the .Standard Plumbing Code lets hear from experts working off IPC. Regards, Tom

You were dead on until you got to the part about the "No-Hub" bands, Tom.

No-Hub Bands are no longer accepted as transition couplings.

He needs to use either Mission or Fernco shielded couplings for the transition.

The accepted transitions from Plastic to Cast Iron/Steel are:

1-1/2" -- CP-150

2" -- CP-200

3" -- CP-33

4" -- CP-44

And if he has a Ferguson Plumbing Supply close by, He can use their 'Pro-Flex' branded shielded coupling.

[Ohio_Remodeler]

Thanks for all the help, you guys are tremendous!

I have cut and dry fit the replacement for this drain and vent. Just want to confirm that I've got this correct.

Everything is 2" PVC. The 2 tees in the upper right are DWV Sanitary Tee's (All Hub).

The 2"x2"x1-1/2" Sanitary Tee is a WYE, Reducing (All Hub).

All the elbows are 90 degree vent ell (Hub x Hub).

Questions:

1. Can the 90 degree vent ell (Hub x Hub) elbows I've used here be used for waste drains?

2. Does the vent line need to slope up?

3. Are the 2 tees in the upper right the correct ones to use there?

4. I noticed there are straight and upward angled 2"x2"x2" sanitary tees. Which one do I use in this case?

5. In the close-up picture, is this an approved setup to drain into the 4" cast iron?

6. Assuming this is an okay setup, how do I seal the gap between the 2" sanitary tees. Which one do I use in this case?

5. In the close-up picture, is this an approved setup to drain into the 4" cast iron?

[speedball1]

You were dead on until you got to the part about the "No-Hub" bands, Tom.

No-Hub Bands are no longer accepted as transition couplings.

He needs to use either Mission or Fernco shielded couplings for the transition.

The accepted transitions from Plastic to Cast Iron/Steel are:

1-1/2" -- CP-150

2" -- CP-200

3" -- CP-33

4" -- CP-44

And if he has a Ferguson Plumbing Supply close by, He can use their 'Pro-Flex' branded shielded coupling.

Thanks Growler,

From now on I'll recommend Fernco Shielded Couplings,( see image) instead of No-Hub Couplings. Thanks again. Tom

[iamgrowler]

Thanks for all the help, you guys are tremendous!

I have cut and dry fit the replacement for this drain and vent. Just want to confirm that I've got this correct.

Everything is 2" PVC. The 2 tees in the upper right are DWV Sanitary Tee's (All Hub).

And the second one down is upside down.

The 2"x2"x1-1/2" Sanitary Tee is a WYE, Reducing (All Hub).

No, it is a Sanitary Tee -- A WYE is an altogether different fitting.

All the elbows are 90 degree vent ell (Hub x Hub).

Questions:

1. Can the 90 degree vent ell (Hub x Hub) elbows I've used here be used for waste drains?

No. You must use drainage fittings.

Long turn 90's to go from horizontal to horizontal.

Long turn 90's to go from vertical to horizontal.

And medium turn 90's to go from horizontal to vertical.

2. Does the vent line need to slope up?

It should grade a 1/4" per foot to the drain.

3. Are the 2 tees in the upper right the correct ones to use there?

They are, but the second one down is upside down.

4. I noticed there are straight and upward angled 2"x2"x1-1/2" sanitary tees. Which one do I use in this case?

The "straight" ones are Sanitary Tee's, the "upward angled" ones are Wye's.
The tee's are fine in this application.

5. In the close-up picture, is this an approved setup to drain into the 4" cast iron?

No, the vent 90's aren't drainage fittings.

6. Assuming this is an okay setup, how do I seal the gap between the 2" PVC and the 4" cast iron?

You need a 'Tye-Seal' manufactured by Tyler Pipe.

[Ohio_Remodeler]

Is it possible to vent the sink and toilet with 2 air admittance valves instead of venting through the main stack? This would greatly simplify this job if it's possible.

If I can do this, please let me know which air admittance valve to get.

[iamgrowler]

Is it possible to vent the sink and toilet with 2 air admittance valves instead of venting through the main stack? This would greatly simplify this job if it's possible.

If I can do this, please let me know which air admittance valve to get.

AAV's would be fine under the UPC, so long as they are accessible -- But you'll need to ask Speedball or Doug if they are all right for use under your code.

[speedball1]

You'll have to check your local codes about the AAVs. Some inspectors allow them and some don't. Good luck, Tom