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    nphillips55's Avatar
    nphillips55 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Apr 14, 2007, 04:05 PM
    Replacing a short section of ABS pipe under the basement floor
    How can I replace a 24 inch section of ABS pipe (shower drain pipe) when the sections I am connecting to are rigid? I've heard of using 4 90's but surely there must be a way to do this without tearing up any more concrete than I have to?
    PalmMP3's Avatar
    PalmMP3 Posts: 321, Reputation: 28
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    #2

    Apr 14, 2007, 07:59 PM
    Have you considered using no-hub couplings? Like this:
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #3

    Apr 15, 2007, 05:46 AM
    PalmMP3 was bang on when he suggested using No-Hub Bands as couplings.
    (Welcome back Moshie, you've been missed.) No-Hub Bands are much more ridged then the neoprene Fernco couplings and do not allow the pipe to sag. When you make your cut, allow for the 1/8th inch ridge in the coupling and make your cut 1/4" larger. Good luck, Tom
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    nphillips55 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Apr 15, 2007, 07:21 AM
    Thanks guys! I actually looked at this and thought they might not be allowable being as they will be underground and the steel clamps exposed to the dirt. Thanks again for your timely response as I'm headed to the building supplies right now.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #5

    Apr 15, 2007, 07:48 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1
    PalmMP3 was bang on when he suggested using No-Hub Bands as couplings.
    (Welcome back Moshie, you've been missed.) No-Hub Bands are much more ridged then the neoprene Fernco couplings and do not allow the pipe to sag. When you make your cut, allow for the 1/8th inch ridge in the coupling and make your cut 1/4" larger. Good luck, Tom
    No-Hub bands will work, but since they are manufactured specificly for No-Hub Cast Iron pipe, you would get into some serious trouble with the inspectors in my area if you used them on plastic.

    The approved method in my area (for 2" plastic) is to use a Fernco Proflex or Mission CP-200.

    3" plastic would be a CP-33 and 1-1/2" plastic would be a CP-150.
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    nphillips55 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Apr 15, 2007, 08:54 AM
    Hmmm, OK, then speedball1, could I actually use 4 90's to allow me to just keep rigid plastic fittings? i.e. would that creat too many bends? Thanks for any comments!
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #7

    Apr 15, 2007, 11:29 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by nphillips55
    Hmmm, ok, then speedball1, could i actually use 4 90's to allow me to just keep rigid plastic fittings? i.e., would that creat too many bends? thanks for any comments!
    Naw, you should definitely use shielded couplings.

    Put too many changes of direction in the line and you'll have to add a clean-out.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #8

    Apr 15, 2007, 11:48 AM
    "could i actually use 4 90's to allow me to just keep rigid plastic fittings?"
    Inserting "dog-legs" in a drainage system isn't the best of plumbing practice. I advise against it. Growler's correct when he sez that No-Hub Bands are made for cast iron. However, unless Fernco's come up with a metal band since I've retired that won't allow the pipe to sag I'll keep on sugesting that the more ridged No-Hub bands be used to couple the two pipes together.
    Growler speaks of a unhappy inspector and he's probably correct. But wait! We're not pulling a permit to replace a chunk of pipe are we? On a 4" piece of (sv)cast iron the OD is 4 1/4 while the OD on the PVC is 4 3/8". That leaves 1/8th inch total or 1/16 th. A side. Plenty of room to open up the band to accommodate 4" PVC. I can see no problem in using the NO-Hub Band for your repair joib. In defense of Growler, he's a "by the book plumber"( and a good one) while I'm a older verson. A seat of the pants plumber. If you're gonna stick close to code listen to Growler. While I attempt to go by code I'm not above taking the "easy way" if it gets the job done. Good luck, Tom
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    nphillips55 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Apr 16, 2007, 09:14 AM
    I am not pulling a permit for the repair, thanks so much for comments from both you guys. I've gone with the "no hub coupling" exactly as suggested originally by imgrowler. :o) I ran water through to ensure no leaks and all is well. Covered and cement patched and on to the next project... have a great day guys!
    PalmMP3's Avatar
    PalmMP3 Posts: 321, Reputation: 28
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    #10

    Apr 17, 2007, 10:52 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by nphillips55
    I've gone with the "no hub coupling" exactly as suggested originally by imgrowler. :o)
    Actually, it was ME who suggested it originally. But you're welcome anyway. ;)

    Glad it worked out!
    Moishe
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    nphillips55 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Apr 18, 2007, 12:25 PM
    My apologies Moishe! Thank you for correcting me. Have a great day!
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #12

    Apr 18, 2007, 06:18 PM
    However, unless Fernco's come up with a metal band since I've retired that won't allow the pipe to sag I'll keep on sugesting that the more ridged No-Hub bands be used to couple the two pipes together.
    The Fernco and Mission shielded couplings I mention are actually much less prone to sag at the transition point than the 'crinkle bands' used in No-Hub Bands.

    If you were to put a micrometer on the two different bands (which I have done) you would see that the bands on the Fernco and Mission shielded couplings are significantly thicker than the bands on the No-Hub Bands.
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