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    Alop's Avatar
    Alop Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jan 4, 2016, 08:37 PM
    Outlet is controlled by light switch?
    So the switch that I use to turn on the light also controls an outlet in my room. Is there any way to make the outlet be on no matter what position the light switch is in?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #2

    Jan 4, 2016, 09:19 PM
    Yes, probably.
    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,854, Reputation: 195
    Ultra Member
     
    #3

    Jan 4, 2016, 10:30 PM
    If you let us know where power comes in we will be able to help you. Does it come into the switch or the light? Once we have that info we will be able to answer your question.

    Chuck
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
    Printers & Electronics Expert
     
    #4

    Jan 5, 2016, 07:39 AM
    Before you go messing around with the wiring, how do you plan to provide power to the light? The electrical code requires that there be a switch controlled light at the entry to the room.

    You could split the receptacle so that the bottom receptacle stays hot all the time and the top receptacle can still be controlled by the switch to turn the light on/off.

    Otherwise, to turn the light on/off you would have to fumble around in a dark room to find the lamp and turn it on. That's what the electrical code is protecting you from having to do.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #5

    Jan 7, 2016, 08:24 AM
    The receptacle would need to be removed and if half switched, cap the switched leg, and jumper the 2 hot sides together. If in conduit, pulling a new constant hot to receptacle will work.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #6

    Jan 7, 2016, 08:32 AM
    Another way would be to connect the switched wire in switch box to the hot, then get a new switched wire to light, whichever is easier.
    smoothy's Avatar
    smoothy Posts: 25,492, Reputation: 2853
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    #7

    Jan 7, 2016, 10:26 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by donf View Post
    Before you go messing around with the wiring, how do you plan to provide power to the light? The electrical code requires that there be a switch controlled light at the entry to the room.

    You could split the receptacle so that the bottom receptacle stays hot all the time and the top receptacle can still be controlled by the switch to turn the light on/off.

    Otherwise, to turn the light on/off you would have to fumble around in a dark room to find the lamp and turn it on. That's what the electrical code is protecting you from having to do.
    The code was probably revised in later years for that. My Neighborhood (built in early 60's) all of the houses (large 4 br houses for the time) had switched outlets and no permanent lights except kitchen dining room and bathrooms Den (2nd living room), main living room and all four bed rooms had no mounted lights unless they were later wired in. No Idea why... I hated it too.

    I had to slightly rewire mine to make the outlets perm hot and switch a line to the ceiling mounted lights I installed. THe outlet in the bedrooms put the switched outlet right where the headboard would be. Meaning a clock radio wasn't going to work. And in the formal living room at the corner of the room by narrow entry where you couldn't put a light if you wanted.

    I can see how depending on how the house was wired... it might become very difficult very easily. And might easily be beyond the average persons ability to do safely and correctly.


    Actually I'm curious if the code for that predated the construction of my house.....wouldn't surprise me if it didn't meet code then. I saw enough other stupid stuff...this was the only one I couldn't blame on anyone but the builder.
    catonsville's Avatar
    catonsville Posts: 894, Reputation: 91
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    #8

    Jan 7, 2016, 11:22 AM
    Maybe a cheap and dirty way would be to invest in one of those "Clapper" switches. You would be able to forget about the wall switch.

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