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    speede5's Avatar
    speede5 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Apr 8, 2007, 12:11 AM
    Main sewer drain line
    I busted up the floor in our basement to put in a bathroom. I was going to tie into the main drain line about 5 feet from the stack and replace the base of the stack. I also wanted to change the existing floor drain which ties in 5 feet further down the line. I busted it all out and the main drain line (cast) had 5 small (1/4) holes in it. I was pretty sure I did this with the jackhammer but I could fit my pinkie in one and it felt thin. My question is how far should I go with this. I have 10 more feet to get to the front cleanout, but it is on the other side of the wall in a different room and will be a disastrous mess. Do I keep tearing up the floor or stop now and replace what is exposed? If the rest of the pipe is kind of thin will I regret not changing it in 5-10 years?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #2

    Apr 8, 2007, 06:50 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by speede5
    I busted up the floor in our basement to put in a bathroom. I was going to tie into the main drain line about 5 feet from the stack and replace the base of the stack. i also wanted to change the existing floor drain which ties in 5 feet further down the line. I busted it all out and the main drain line (cast) had 5 small (1/4) holes in it. i was pretty sure I did this with the jackhammer but i could fit my pinkie in one and it felt thin. my question is how far should i go with this. i have 10 more feet to get to the front cleanout, but it is on the other side of the wall in a different room and will be a disasterous mess. Do I keep tearing up the floor or stop now and replace what is exposed? If the rest of the pipe is kinda thin will i regret not changing it in 5-10 years?
    That's a toughie! On the one hand you wonder if all your cast iron is fulla holes and needs to be replaced while on the other you don't want to tear up your house and spend big bucks if it isn't really necessary. While the vibration from the jackhammer might have caused the holes the cast iron was thin to began with. Being in your situation, (I live in a 53 year old home with thinning cast iron pipe walls,) I can sympathize with you.
    I guess I would take a set of ratchet cutters and cut out the bad section and replace with PVC using No-Hub Bands and hoipe for the best. However, If I could see that the rest of the cast iron was in bad shape I'd "bite the bullet" and start replacing the faulty pipes. Good luck in whatever you decide. Tom
    speede5's Avatar
    speede5 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Apr 8, 2007, 07:09 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by speede5
    I busted up the floor in our basement to put in a bathroom. I was going to tie into the main drain line about 5 feet from the stack and replace the base of the stack. i also wanted to change the existing floor drain which ties in 5 feet further down the line. I busted it all out and the main drain line (cast) had 5 small (1/4) holes in it. i was pretty sure I did this with the jackhammer but i could fit my pinkie in one and it felt thin. my question is how far should i go with this. i have 10 more feet to get to the front cleanout, but it is on the other side of the wall in a different room and will be a disasterous mess. Do I keep tearing up the floor or stop now and replace what is exposed? If the rest of the pipe is kinda thin will i regret not changing it in 5-10 years?
    Yes it is tough. I think I am going to bite the bullt and pull up the last bit if floor. I rented the hammer for the weekend so there's little added cost. I just am not interested in the mess! You mentioned PVC I was planning on ABS. I am replacing as much of the underground as possible, adding a bathroom group and replacing the base of the stack(copper). What is the difference with using PVC. I have always used ABS when doing plumbing.

    Thanks
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #4

    Apr 8, 2007, 07:36 AM
    "What is the difference with using PVC. I have always used ABS when doing plumbing."


    I'm a Florida plumber and we stopped using ABS back in the 70's. The thinner wall ABS kitchen and lavatory drain arms would droop and sag in the hot Fl,orida sun. Scedule#40 PVC has a thicker wall and is stronger then ABS. If you use ABS I suggest you ask for the heavier wall pipe.
    speede5's Avatar
    speede5 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Apr 8, 2007, 07:47 AM
    I'm a Florida plumber and we stopped using ABS back in the 70's. The thinner wall ABS kitchen and lavatory drain arms would droop and sag in the hot Fl,orida sun. Scedule#40 PVC has a thicker wall and is stronger then ABS. If you use ABS I suggest you ask for the heavier wall pipe.[/QUOTE]


    Well we are quite a bit different, I am in Moose Jaw SK and I've never heard of ABS drooping from heat (I'll have to ask my plumber about that). I've seen it snap from movement during spring or winter heave/thaws. Thanks for your help, I take it the ABS/PVC comes down to preference in most applications?

    I saw in some of your posts that there are areas down south that 'lag in technology. We are about 5-10 years behind up here. I put in floor radiant in my garage 3 years ago and although a few guys were doing it no one was truly confident in it. Now it is everywhere. Same with plastic supply lines. Everything was copper until about two years ago. I think the only reason they are changing is the price of copper doubling and labor being hard to find. You should see the puzzled looks I got at the local building store when I asked for Hardiplank siding! You sure you don't want to use vinyl siding, everyone else is!! That was 6 months ago.

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