Check out some similar questions!

debreese · Feb 22, 2005, 09:03 AM

I have a 14 year old Kenmore electric dryer that recently stopped heating. Everything else seems to be working fine. The drum works and there is plenty of air flow. I checking the different thermostats and heater element with a ohm meter and they all seemed to have activity except for the thermal cut-off. I replaced this part and it seemed to work for about 4 loads of clothes and then it stopped heating AGAIN. I checked and found out the thermal cutoff was no longer working again. Would else could the problem be? What would cause the thermal cut off to blow again in such a short time?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Debbie Reese

labman · Feb 22, 2005, 10:15 AM

One of the elements could be partly shorted, drawing excess current. Check them and replace any one that has a lower resistance. Also compare the resistance to any rating you find. Watts = volts times amps. Volts/ohms = amps.

debreese · Feb 22, 2005, 11:49 AM

Thanks for the response. I only have one element and it seems to be OK.

thebriggsdude · Feb 22, 2005, 04:21 PM

The heatign element will seem to work OK but in fact when its running its blowing heat in and the element could just be worn out. I had a wirlpool till just all of a sudden it went to doing that, so I checked the element and sure enough it was completely gone

william a · Apr 12, 2005, 09:32 PM

I bought a new whirlpool dryer along with a new power cord. I returned the first dryer because it was not heating and the timer was not working. I just plugged in my second dryer and its doing the same thing.

labman · Apr 13, 2005, 07:43 AM

If the dial doesn't light up, the drum turn, the light inside light, or anything, You need to check to make sure the outlet is hot. Sometimes circuit breakers look like they are OK, but are not. Try turning the breaker off, and back on.

thebriggsdude · Apr 14, 2005, 10:58 PM

Yes, check your breaker, they do go bad.

ltzfl · Aug 24, 2005, 01:47 PM

I have a Kenmore 80 series dryer that isn't heating anymore? I changed the heater, the thermal fuse, the thermostat, and thermal bias and still not heat. Any ideas what else it could be?

Thanks

labman · Aug 24, 2005, 02:06 PM

Is there a relay between the thermostat and heating element? They are a frequent source of trouble. Otherwise, check for power working back from the element or relay. I came across the niftiest gadget for that sort of a thing, a voltage detector. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit.

MomInIrvine · Oct 2, 2005, 09:34 PM

I have a really weird question - my cat decided to urinate on a bag that was on top of my dryer. It went down into the top lint vent. I cleaned it the best I could, but now my dryer heats initially, but when it needs to re-ignite to keep the heat going, it makes a buzzing sort of sound with no ignition. Any suggestions as to what this is? I opened the back and cleaned out the entire lint area and vacuumed all the wires etc.

labman · Oct 3, 2005, 07:17 AM

The urine has water soluble materials that are charged particles and conducts electricity like salt water. When the dryer has had time to set and dry, it may be OK, but once moisture from the clothes reaches the wiring, something shorts out. You may need to wash the wiring. UNPLUG THE DRIER. Spray some soapy water everywhere the urine may have gone. Brush as much of the contacts as you can. Follow with clear water. Give everything plenty of time to dry. Maybe even use your hair dryer.

jagrunner2602 · Oct 13, 2005, 12:48 PM

Hi..

I could use some professional advice. I have a Kenmore dryer about 12 years or so old (model # 110.86873100). All of a sudden there's no heat.. I took out the element and that looks OK with no burnout issues that I can see.

I'm ready to order from RepairClinic.com the nesscessary parts to get the element to fireup. Some had a similar issue and replaced the parts and still had problems..

The only other parts I can see to replace (other then the element) That's connected to the outer case for the element are as follows: They look like snap disc's

Part # 696397 Thermostat 250 F - 121 C

Part # 695563 Thermal Cutoff

Part # 660039 Thermostat 150 F - 65.6 C

Can anyone tell me if I replace any of these or all of them, would this solve the problem? Could it be the element even though it looks OK..?

Many Thanks,

Jag

labman · Oct 13, 2005, 01:34 PM

Replacing parts unless you are sure they are bad, is expensive. You might save the $25 a multimeteer and a voltage detector would cost on this job alone. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. The multimeter on the ohm scale will quickly tell you if the element is open.

Those parts are likely suspects. Also check the relay, a common problem.

jagrunner2602 · Oct 13, 2005, 01:58 PM

Hi..

Thanks for getting back.. I'll have to get one of those..

I just noticed that one of the coils separted from the other on the element. It was so fragile that when I took it out it broke apart. I temporary touched together and sure enough it fired right up..

I'm ready to order one on Repair clinic. The one they sell is 5200 W 240 v the one that's in the dryer is 5400 w 240v. I'm asuming it's OK to get this one. Correct?

Thanks.

Jag

labman · Oct 13, 2005, 05:35 PM

Sounds good. 200 out of 5400 is less than 4%. Could mean it might take 26 minutes to dry a load instead of 25.

jagrunner2602 · Oct 13, 2005, 05:50 PM

Thanks Labman for all your help..

I ordered one on RepairClinic.com for $35 plus $13 for 2 day shipping. Need that dryer in running order asap. They are kind of high priced.

Then low and behold I go on eBay and there's a seller out there with loads of these brand new elements for 9 bucks.. $8 shipping. Oh well, should check Ebay for this stuff before rushing an order.

Again, thanks for all your help..

JAG

pejvak · Dec 26, 2005, 07:59 PM

Hi
This is my frist time to your forum
I have Kenmore dryer which does not heat up.
I have 220v in my outlet and in my dryer, my element is okay,
When I opened the dryer after 30 minds checking everything I was about to close it and I turn it on and I see the element heats up. So I thought there was wiring problem, but my experience with fixing things tells me, if I do not change parts, mean the problem still there, sure after closing it did not heat up. So I open again, and some time later, the element worked, so to say it has mind of its own? Any hint please

labman · Dec 27, 2005, 08:41 AM

The power to the element is controlled by a relay. Some times relays get to where they work some time and not others. Follow the wiring from where it comes in to the element. Somewhere there is a little box the wires go in with wires going out to the element. There will be one more pairof wires. That is the relay, and likely, it is going bad. Replace it, and the dryer should work every time. Unfortunately, it could also be the timer. It may not be sending power to the third pair of wires on the relay.

pejvak · Dec 27, 2005, 09:01 PM

Hi labman

The close up in my digital camera does not work, but I took picture and post it for you in the link.
This relay has only 2 wires, any relay I had experience with had 4wires
, 2 for powering the relay, and the other 2 wires for switching.
http://www.taj.150m.com/dryer.htm

labman · Dec 27, 2005, 09:40 PM

It sure looks like a relay. Could it have contacts with whatever it is that is beside it? Maybe you need to remove it and inspect and test it. Identify the coil, and apply 120 to it and see if it clicks.