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    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #21

    Mar 7, 2005, 04:44 PM
    Removing the light isn't going to get you past inspection. The light is telling you something is wrong with your car. Until you find and fix it, you car will have poorer performance and lower gas mileage, as well as pollute more. Light or no light, when they test your car, whatever made the light come on, will make too much pollution and cause your car to fail. You may as well have a decently equipped shop fix it now, and enjoy a better running car in the mean time.
    thebriggsdude's Avatar
    thebriggsdude Posts: 1,096, Reputation: 53
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    #22

    Mar 7, 2005, 05:13 PM
    Most of the time it's a failed sensor. If you are going to get another car later on its not much to worry about. When a sensor goes bad it will automatically tell the computer something's wrong. Two choices, remove the light or find the problem. Problem to me sounds like a sensor is bad.
    heartmd's Avatar
    heartmd Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #23

    Mar 15, 2005, 07:03 PM
    1991 Taurus Starter
    My 1991 Taurus V6 GL has gone 151K miles. It is fine and we took it on a 5 hr trip 3 days ago.
    Recently the starter hesitiates when cranking and then picks up speed.When the engine starts in 2-3 secs, there is a growl/grating noise from the engine.
    What could be the problem?
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #24

    Mar 15, 2005, 07:41 PM
    Could be the starter bearings, or maybe the solenoid. The noise could be from the starter failing to disengage. Is it worse when the engine is warm? That is a sign of the bearings. I have replaced the bearings in a starter, but just putting on a rebuilt starter is a lot less work.
    thebriggsdude's Avatar
    thebriggsdude Posts: 1,096, Reputation: 53
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    #25

    Mar 15, 2005, 09:03 PM
    Yes its definently the starter to me. I've seen on this old taurus hatchback where when the women started it it growled and screamed. Well for one thing the starter gear was torn to hell and the starter's bearing were shot and the starter was just a couple starts or more from freezing up solid. A already rebuilt starter will be the best choice since it'll be a hell of a lot cheaper then a new one and be just as good.
    heartmd's Avatar
    heartmd Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #26

    Mar 18, 2005, 09:06 PM
    Compressor clutch racket
    The starter problem is fixed.
    Now to the compressor clutch that makes a racket. The racket disappers when the a/c is on.
    I can see while the a/c is off, the outer face of the clutch moves slowly in the direction of rotation of the pulley.There are three bolts/rivets on its face that appear to be shaky causing part of the racket.
    What is the downside of letting it make a racket. Will the clutch seize in time?
    thebriggsdude's Avatar
    thebriggsdude Posts: 1,096, Reputation: 53
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    #27

    Mar 19, 2005, 01:38 AM
    Just may need a new one. Worn out maybe and won't really freeze up unless you let it go like it is. Never heard of one freezing up yet.
    heartmd's Avatar
    heartmd Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #28

    Mar 19, 2005, 06:18 AM
    91 Taurus Questions
    1.
    Every repair I have to do on this car has to be balanced by the current cost of the car ($500)
    Somehow the a/c cools marginal on the hottest day.
    So if I just let it go for now what happens?
    How long till it freezes? Or will it just make a racket and a lot of noise and that's it?

    2.
    I presume I need the hose removal tool to remove the a/c compressor. I intend to have it evacuated and filled with gas professionally as I don't have the equipment. Any ideas?

    3.
    In 1998, a colleague of mine drove the car with no power steering (PS) fluid. Now every time the car turns the PS pump makes a loud whine (10 times the normal). How do you remove the fanbelt that drives the PS and the AC? I did not see an idler pulley or anyway to even adjust the tension of this belt.

    4.
    Also the book tells me that I need a special tool to remove the PS pulley first before the PS pump can be removed. Is that right? Why can't I remove the whole thing at the mounting?

    Thanks for answering all these questions.
    I am enjoying my work on this car.

    Kris
    heartmd's Avatar
    heartmd Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #29

    Mar 19, 2005, 11:13 AM
    1991 Taurus Compressor Clutch
    The preamble to item 1 is that the AC Clutch makes a racket and I want to know if it might seize/freeze
    thebriggsdude's Avatar
    thebriggsdude Posts: 1,096, Reputation: 53
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    #30

    Mar 19, 2005, 11:16 AM
    Your best bet is go to a junk yard and pick up both for a very cheap price.
    heartmd's Avatar
    heartmd Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #31

    Mar 19, 2005, 06:10 PM
    1998 Escort SW Fuel filter and transmission oil changes
    Can anyone give me the basics of how to change the fuel filter and the transmission oil on a 1998 Escort SW?
    Thanks
    Kris
    ladyandjan's Avatar
    ladyandjan Posts: 191, Reputation: 4
    Junior Member
     
    #32

    Jun 18, 2005, 09:54 PM
    Check engine light gone for good now
    Just to let everyone know that I did manage to get the check engine light on my 91' Taurus to disappear. A neighbor who does car repairs on the side managed to take off the dash board and when he went to reach for the bulb it fell through and is now somewhere inside the car. Oh and to all who said I'd be breaking the law by taking the bulb out - I DID PASS THE EMISSIONS TEST A FEW WEEKS AGO WITH FLYING COLORS! Just had to get rid of the light so I could take the test. Before others jump on someone as far as obeying the law they should put themselves in the other persons shoes and wonder what they'd do in the same situation with little or no money to spend to find out why the light stayed on in the first place. A car as old as the one I have is not worth sinking a ton of money into-just enough to keep it running well.
    thebriggsdude's Avatar
    thebriggsdude Posts: 1,096, Reputation: 53
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    #33

    Jun 18, 2005, 11:46 PM
    To tell you the truth, they can pass even though the light is on... its just annoying at the most... its not illegal to snip/remove the bulb, or is it illegal for them to be passed when the light is on... its just a idiot light when it comes down to it, most of the time its just a sensor that doesn't control anything nor will affect performance goes bad, and that light pops on, and it ends up costing somewhere around nothing to get a friend to remove the bulb, versus $$ lots of $$ to have the problem fixed... just to have it later on pop on again... don't care if its new or old, a sensor will go bad... and even though the wires and or bulb is gone... it can still be diagnosed if you see it/feel its losing performance.
    ladyandjan's Avatar
    ladyandjan Posts: 191, Reputation: 4
    Junior Member
     
    #34

    Jun 19, 2005, 12:01 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by thebriggsdude
    to tell you the truth, they can pass even though the light is on.... its just annoying at the most.... its not illegal to snip/remove the bulb, or is it illegal for them to be passed when the light is on.... its just a idiot light when it comes down to it, most of the time its just a sensor that doesn't control anything nor will affect performance goes bad, and that light pops on, and it ends up costing somewhere around nothing to get a friend to remove the bulb, versus $$ lots of $$ to have the problem fixed... just to have it later on pop on again... don't care if its new or old, a sensor will go bad... and even though the wires and or bulb is gone.... it can still be diagnosed if you see it/feel its losing performance.
    Car was not losing performance but you know that they will not even let you take the test if that light is on-just tell you to go get it fixed since they only give you 30 days to do get it fixed and I didn't have $$$ to get rid of an idiot light as you so nicely put it.
    thebriggsdude's Avatar
    thebriggsdude Posts: 1,096, Reputation: 53
    Ultra Member
     
    #35

    Jun 19, 2005, 03:00 PM
    Guess it depends on the state to state laws, not calling you an idiot, but that's the other name for them. Ask any old mechanic, that's what they call them as well.
    igottogonow's Avatar
    igottogonow Posts: 128, Reputation: 2
    Junior Member
     
    #36

    Jun 6, 2007, 11:49 AM
    I've had Fords, GM's, Chrysler, Jeeps, BMW, Toyota and Hondas. You will have problems with all of them to some extent. Look at all the Hondas that show up on this website. I'll stick to American cars even though most parts are made overseas. If you have to take an emission test, sniping wires and removing bulbs doesn't fix anything and you should still fail like labman said. I purchased a code reader off eBay <$50 and it works great, it has already paid for itself. Not sure about your mechanic but maybe you should re-evaluate him. Emission control problems sometimes indicate a bad gas cap or a vapor canister, maybe catalitic converter.

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