[tealej1]

My civic won't start I use to be able to see the cel turn on the main relay kick on and the fuel pump wine but now nothing I had a bad idle air control on my ecu but got a new ecu and still nothing I've replaced the main relay and nothing I don't know v what's wrong here I also checked all ignition fuses sand all seem good please help!!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the CEL stays on when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then the ECM is likely bad. You can confirm this by performing the K-Test on the ECM (search the archives). Also, make sure the ACG (ALT) S fuse, located in the under dash fuse box, is good.

[tealej1]

I checked the acg fuse again and it is good I swaped ecm and still being the same response.. I should add that while waiting on a response I checked for spark and I'm not getting any

[tealej1]

I tried uploading a picture but it won't let me but the ecm connector D pin 7 looks like it blew up when I looked at the pins in my recently bought ecm two pins were in the number 7 slot

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Sounds like the problem is still with the ECM.

[tealej1]

Ok.I will pick.up another one and see how.it works out

[tealej1]

I switched out the ecu and still nothing but I did check the functions of an ignition switch and I see it supplies power to tge coil and ecu could that be why my relay don't turn on and my coil won't spark

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II? If not, all attention must be focused on getting this to work properly. Thoroughly check all fuses, main relay, ignition switch, and ECM.

[tealej1]

It turns on when on position 2 but it does not cycle off after 2 seconds ice changed the main relay I've changed ecu distributors and today I switched ignition switch and nothing I did have the same issue before and I had posted on here but I ended up running a ground wire from the starter to the negative battery terminal and it worked until now

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I suspect there is a problem with the ECM. Does it have the same Honda Part No. that originally came with the car? Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing (look for a 3-wire brass connector); then, perform the K-Test.

[tealej1]

How do I perform a k test? I've heard of it but never seen it done

[tealej1]

Here is some of the pics I took off the p06 ecu that came in the car also the connector is from.the ecu wire harness and the portions are from the second ecu I purchased keep in mind I bought a third to eliminate any doubt in my mind that the second ecu was bad

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. Many Hondas parked for several years are now back on the road. "The K-Test creates massive value, by providing a low cost solution where one did not previously exist."--TxGM

My bet is that the ECM is bad.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you install a good ECM, which is an original Honda Part No. match, it should fire right up.

[odinn7]

Looks to me like at least one of the connectors in the harness is fried. If that's the case, this could be causing you problems.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Additionally, some of the components on the PCB look fried--the microprocessors may be, too. You need to buy a known good ECM and you need to ensure the harness is good.