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    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #1

    Dec 12, 2013, 08:20 AM
    Laundry drain floods over
    Greetings,

    My clothes washer floods the floor of the garage every time it goes into a drain cycle.

    The drain line (at least to the best of my line of site) does not have any vent. Also, the backwash of the drain will fill the kitchen sink.

    The drain line from the washer runs along the back wall of the garage. The kitchen drain "T"s into the line at the back of the garage wall and then continues off to the right.

    Also, I found a vent pipe in between the kitchen sink's drain and the line to the washer dryer. I always thought that you vent a line behind the drain, not in front of it/

    Any suggestions Tom /Mark?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #2

    Dec 12, 2013, 08:41 AM
    Hi Don

    Yeah, a washing machine should definitely have a dedicated vent. In this case, installing a cheap mechanical vent (also referred to as an AAV) about 3 feet after the washing machine Ptrap will be a good idea.

    I'd see if you can run an electric snake down the vent you mentioned (if flat enough roof and the pipes are arranged so that the snake can get past the floor drain). Otherwise, you'll need to cut into the drain line just before it goes into the floor, add a full-size CLEANOUT and snake the drain from that point.

    A helpful tip when snaking is to keep water so it overflows the floor drain the entire time you snake the drain line... when you hit the blockage you'll know as the water starts to drain. When you see this happen, work the electric snake back and forth in the same spot for a few feet/minutes... ;)

    Mark
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #3

    Dec 12, 2013, 09:07 AM
    Mark,
    Two questions.
    First, why aren't you out fixing frozen pipes (and making a fortune)?
    Second, if Don's plumbing is as pictured below, wouldn't the vent serve both the washer stand pipe (depending on size and distance) and the kitchen drain?

    Ignoring his problem with flooding floor drain
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    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #4

    Dec 12, 2013, 12:10 PM
    Hi Harold

    No frozen pipes yet... not quite cold enough (and I'll never make a fortune doing the work myself! )!

    In terms of your plumbing diagram, if Don's plumbing is set up like that (and I picture it different than you drew) then the washing machine would be vented, but it would act to siphon the kitchen sink drain ptrap as water went past the ptrap. Further, even if the vent was installed in a manner that the vent did not siphon the kitchen sink ptrap, it would still be an illegal setup in most states as you can't use a washing machine vent to WET VENT any fixture... washing machine waste volume and velocity too great and still can siphon a ptrap from a fixture.

    Back to you...
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #5

    Dec 12, 2013, 12:11 PM
    Harold, Thanks for the pic idea. The layout looks more like this. The drain hose from the washer goes into the top of the drain pipe.

    Mark, The drain pipe for the washer is cut into 2' sections so that it can be removed in pieces. It only takes a few seconds of discharged water before it blows out of the top of the pipe.
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    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #6

    Dec 12, 2013, 12:13 PM
    That leaves the kitchen sink as properly vented, but not the washer.

    Where is the floor drain in relation to the piping, Don?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #7

    Dec 12, 2013, 12:47 PM
    it would act to siphon the kitchen sink drain ptrap as water went past the ptrap
    That's the part I didn't consider. Thanks.
    You have to have the frozen pipes to pay for the yacht. Is yours a 32 or 36 footer?

    Don,
    Mark will come snake your drain if you buy the gas for his yacht.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #8

    Dec 12, 2013, 01:03 PM
    Don't know if I would quite call this a "yacht"... ;) It's really more of an electric dinghy!!
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    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #9

    Dec 12, 2013, 02:31 PM
    Mark,

    The sink does back-up, not overflow. The washer drain blows back almost immediately.

    There is no floor drain in the garage. Just to the right of the W/D about 3" is the H/W tank, then the wall for the kitchen. On the other side of that wall is a 3.0 window.

    I suspect, but cannot prove that the kitchen sink as originally under that window. At some point in time, the sink was moved to its current position adjacent to the stove.

    There is a clean-out directly under the center of the window. I am hoping I can just cut the black pipe, just after the "P" and "T" in a vent pipe to stop the blow-back and allow the gray water discharge. If that makes sense to you, where would I cut the vent and would I need to run the pipe through the roof?

    Just for the record, the last time I went sailing it was in something a bit larger (not by much, a Destroyer Escort), haze gray and flying our nation's flag. I spent my sea time in the North Atlantic.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #10

    Dec 12, 2013, 05:25 PM
    By code, the vent should be installed so it is no farther than 3-5 feet from the washer ptrap. You can run the vent up through the roof, connect it into the existing vent from the sink (at minimum of 42" above the floor), or add a mechanical vent (but these are illegal in most states).

    I would cut the vent in, but before installing the vent, snake the washer drain to the cleanout under the window. Then snake from the cleanout under the window to a point that allows the kitchen sink to start draining (leave water in sink while snaking the drain, if possible). When water starts to drain, run the snake back and forth numerous times in the area of the drain pipe.

    I would NOT get a hand-held snake here...I would get a small electrical snake as pictured below (1/4" drain cable if 1-1/2" drain or 3/8" cable if 2" drain size and above). Use safety goggles and leather gloves for safety sake!

    Finally, all my respect to you and all humans that fight for our and others' freedoms!

    Mark
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    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #11

    Dec 12, 2013, 07:45 PM
    Mark,

    I appreciate your thanks. The only I ever caught in the NA was a Pneumonia. My brother, A Marine at Chu-li, was blessed by all the luck us Irish can have. He came home wit all his fingers and toes, 2 purple hearts and a Bronze Star. To this day none of that time is open for discussion!

    I took a look at the AAV vent over at Home Depot. They do have them, so by inference I would expect them to be legal here in Virginia, I 've only got about 2' before I go behind the water tank. Would 2 ft. from the trap be to close?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #12

    Dec 13, 2013, 06:12 AM
    Installing the AAV within 2 feet of the ptrap is perfect.

    And not to discourage the installation of the AAV, but just because home depot sells it doesn't make it legal. As an example, my local home depot and the local plumbing supply company both sell AAVs in my area... 100% illegal in my entire state! I'd still install the AAV... can put the vent out the roof if required down the road!
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #13

    Dec 13, 2013, 08:45 AM
    Thanks - Don
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #14

    Dec 13, 2013, 10:49 AM
    Hi Don,
    Mark and Harold are doing bang up jobs in helping. I have a question, are you on city sewer or septic tank? Is there a grease trap installed?
    Harold, your drawing shows a"S" trap off the kitchen sink.
    Follow Mark's advice and snake the line. Good luck, Tom
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #15

    Dec 13, 2013, 11:37 AM
    Hi Tom.
    Well, I'm no better at drawing than I am at plumbing. It's hard to be challenged in every way (I can't sing either).

    Without a vent, I guess that would amount to an "S" trap.
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #16

    Dec 14, 2013, 11:09 AM
    New Information.

    My son says that as the drain pipe for both the sink move into the kitchen area there is another vent pipe just past the water heater to the right.

    So I guess the question is, will an AAV valve be of any use since there is another vent pipe on that line.
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    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #17

    Dec 14, 2013, 03:28 PM
    Installing the AAV within 2 feet of the washer Ptrap will definitely be beneficial as it will create a more turbulent, self-scouring flow of water down the drain pipe... helps keep pipes from getting clogged in the first place. You will still need to snake the drain pipes... especially the one underground... ;)

    Installing the AAV after that will help keep the pipe cleaner and should reduce the frequency of having to clean the drain pipe(s).

    Mark

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