[MCtrlSys]

I have a 1991 honda civic dx. Worked great until last week when i was stopped at a red light and the engine just cut out. Restarted OK. Then i was cruising down the freeway and the engine suddenly cut out again. I pulled over into the shoulder and it started fine. Now, i can't make a 5 minute trip to the store without it cutting out, and it takes a few tries to start. My mechanic cannot locate the cause. Anyone?

I've had this issue a number of times with my 91 dx hatch. There are two reasons I could think of why this could be happening. (Beyond the obvious issues). One is the distributor. I found that at some point so much oil had gotten in between my plug wires and the plugs that the capacitance overloaded the distributor. I believe what we replaced though was not the whole distributor but the unit in the distributor. The coil. Its cheaper to replace the coil but make sure to get rid of the initial problem before you do (wires and oil or just time) A new set of plug wires and the coil is cheaper than replacing the distributor.

The other possibility is the clutch disconnect switch. That is the switch that disallows you to start the car without the clutch engaged. This could be connected intermittently and has the capability of shutting the engine down. If this connection is loose or maybe has some arcing this could cause the problem as well.

Obviously the battery is being charged or you wouldn't be able to restart the car after the shutdown so it sounds to me to be one of the above. Also the car would sputter then die if it was a over-fuel or ECU issue. I hope this helps.

[voneee]

I have a 2000 Civic LX with the same problem. The first time it cut off I was just sitting at a light... the next I was driving down the road. The next day it was OK on the way to work then, on the way home it did it again. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran fine on the way to work in the morning and cut off again on the way home. I don't think temperature is a factor. Mydistibutor was replaced a year and a half ago, the plugs and wires are about 6 months old. I took it to the shop and of course it wouldn't cut off for them so they can't diagnose the problem. The check engine light does not come on so it is not throwing any codes. Oh, the first two times it cut off it started right back up... the last 4 times it cut off I had to wait about 4 minutes before it would start again.
Let me know if you find a solution to your problem and I'll let you know if I do!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Vonee, I'm inclined to suspect the Main Relay. Try replacing it and see if the problem goes away. It's a common problem on Hondas. First, disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 seconds, to reset the ECM. Record an radio codes first. Let me know if this solves the problem.

[voneee]

I got it fixxed! I found a GREAT mechanic! He tested the ignition (not the problem) then the main relay (not the problem). It was the distributor. I had a rebuilt one put in 2 years ago and it failed. The mechanic said that he's seen that problem A lot and he will not put a rebuilt distributor in a Honda anymoe. He recommend a new one or a used one... I went with a used one due to the price so hopefully I'll beok for awhile.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

voneee, thanks for the update. Our experience on this site has been the same--only use genuine Honda distributors. All others are suspect.

[gratefulalive]

Same problem : Honda Ballade 180i - 1999 in South Africa (I think it is called a Civic elsewhere in the world)

In analyzing this problem it appears to be electrical in origin, as all the dashboard lights suddenly turn off and the rev counter drops to zero immediately. Turning the car on and it will sometimes rev and immediately cut out, but the fuel pump/filter flow is OK as a fuel smell at the exhaust is quite strong after attempting some restarts which start up and then cut-out.

Also I noticed that a bump in the road may initiate the problem - which in my estimation points to the main relay/or an intermittent loose connection in the wiring. But oddly waiting a period and the car starts again. This requires the anti-theft green ignition button to be re-depressed and the system resets the start/ignition relay etc. whereupon it re-starts and may run fine for a few days. A poor relay contact would have some resistance and hence heat up and fail after a time. Doing a few ignition restarts does some relay contact self-cleaning due to the slight sliding action on the relay contacts when they make (on good quality relay designs especially).

I'll check the distributor diagnosis but I cannot figure out why the electronics shuts-down because of that - possibly the electrical pulses from the distributor to the tacho may shut down the system?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

gratefulalive, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Both of these problematic components should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. The main relay is not the culprit, since the CEL comes on and goes off normally and since the fuel pump runs fine. If the problem persists, check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

Ignition switches are suspect when the dash lights go out. In your situation, however, I think it's because the engine dies due to the ICM and/or coil being bad. It should be an easy fix.

[slybryan16]

OK I have a 1991 honda civic dx 1.5l 5 speed, about three months ago my car was doing the same thing, especially when it was hot out the car won't start back up, would die while running and it was a pain... well I was reading a blog much like yours and found and answer to my problem... first troubleshoot... check your main relay, located under the driverside dash, behind the clutch, its just a black box. Unplug it and take it apart. Just a flat head screwdriver will work.
Check the soldering connections for cracks, if they are cracked resolder or just buy another one, I know when I took mine apart it was literally fried, looked like battery acid was poured in it. Another way to troubleshoot the main really is while turning the car on you will hear three slight clicks from it, two as the guy above said check your fuel pressure and your alternater wires.
First though check your main relay that is one of the most common problems with these hondas with your diagnostics.

[hondalover65]

1990 honda civic dx. The fuel tank was near empty, I opened the fuel cap and heard air movement: either pressure or vacuum-don't know which. Is this normal? And why?

[luckysssj]

I have a 1991 honda civic ex 4 door the same problem I can be on the freeway hitting 60 and it will shut off... or going 40 on a road same thing.. at a light? Same thing car will shut off whenever it feels like it .I have replaced the alternator spark plug wires and spark plugs fuel filter air filter got a new ignition switch... drives a hell of a lot better but still shuts off on me... I now suspect the main relay or distributer... aaaaallllllllll bbbbbaaaaaaadddddddd

[TxGreaseMonkey]

luckysssj, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil should solve your problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

[gratefulalive]

I resolved the problem on my Honda Civic 1999 after much searching in the electrical system. The problem is with the ignition switch which wears down with use and also draws appreciable amperage through the largest ignition terminals while "on". To diagnose it requires one attempting to start the car. It will usually turn over but then switch off once one has released the key to the run position. Start the car and instead of letting the spring loaded key switch under the spring loading to the normal run position, turn it back by hand a fraction more, a little past the worn part of the run "on" spot where it may not be as worn and then it will continue to run while holding the key here, until you release it back to its worn spot, where it may again cut off the engine ignition.

Fix it, if you can do it yourself, like this - Remove battery negative terminal. Use a larger 60W soldering iron. Remove plastic cover around steering wheel and screws. Unscrew two screws holding the electrical ignition terminals to the key switch assembly. This is where all the wires are soldered onto. Prise the white plastic cover off the rotary switch terminals. This will separate the spring loaded contacts from the fixed wired terminals. Clean both up with from old dirt and carbon deposits with a clean cloth, assisted by mineral turpentine or benzine. Carefully note the order of assembly. Now on the wire contact terminals you will find the holed and pitted terminals. Pool some solder onto all of these terminals including the good ones while terminals held horizontally to assist pooling solder. Soldering iron must be 60W type and hot enough to cause the solder to pool and run. Careful, not too long on terminal to cause damage . Careful, also hot, so let it cool down. Then file solder pools flatter so that the switch will rotate smoothly. Reassemble carefully noting order of disassembly and it will work fine again, till it wears out again, hopefully in the distant future !

[camaroguy98]

Probably your altanstor or fuel pump or fuel lines

[camaroguy98]

Fuel pump?

[joehandyman]

I had the same problem for years and many mechanics were baffled. Tried burning high-test fuel, cleaning injectors, replacing idle sensor, etc. Problem persisted. The car ran hot one day, and I finally discovered the answer. Two small water lines directly above the alternator had aged and rotted and were leaking water onto the alternator. As the leaks became worse, so did the cut-out problem. Very easy fix. Replaced the two small hoses (cost, including labor, was $60). Car runs great, even on regular-octane fuel.

[jefreyjames]

You know what guys, you don't need to buy a new distributor, just remove the interior cap that protects the rotary head to have an exhaust in the coil. Honestly it works

[rs2]

I followed the advice of gratefulalive and it took care of my problem.
I appreciate the help and advice and thanks much again to gratefulalive.

I have a '99 Civic that would cut off at any time while driving or cut off when leaving the house.
Basically I found that it would cut off after letting the key spring back to the run position. If I held the key at the start position and released the clutch it would run.
When I let the key return to the run position it would cutoff; no dash lights or tachometer or speedometer readings. This problem could have led to an accident if it happened to cut off in the middle of an intersection.

[EX-Tech]

gratefulalive is 100% correct.
Save yourself the headaches, hassles and throwing a bunch of money at the problem buying every part (ICM, Main Relay, Distributor, etc) that Won't fix the problem! I have done the same procedure as explained by 'gratefulalive', it's very simple, it's a hell of a lot more cost effective then replacing the ($85.00 - $250.00) starter switch and my 1993 Civic EX starts up first time - every time and no longer dies suddenly at stop lights where I can't get it started again or my personal favorite: while I'm doing 75 mph on the freeway! Everyone bow down and praise the prowess of Honda ignition wisdom, as wielded by gratefulalive! Heed his words or suffer the financial and time burdening consequences!