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    jareddevich82's Avatar
    jareddevich82 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 20, 2012, 12:52 PM
    FPI nat. Gas insert
    I can get the pilot on no problem and it stays on. Then I turn knob to on position and turn flame control knob from low to hi nothing happens. I'm wondering if it's a clogged gas line or could it be a wiring problem. Thanks for your time.
    SeattlePioneer's Avatar
    SeattlePioneer Posts: 97, Reputation: 9
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    #2

    Jan 20, 2012, 02:11 PM
    Usually the flame control knob will adjust the size of the main burner flame, but will not turn the flame on and off. If there are wires attached to the gas valve, there is commonly an electrical switch used to turn the main burner on and off. Have you operated this fireplace before and are you familiar with that switch?

    Usually it's a wall switch located near the fireplace, but it can be on the fireplace sometimes as well.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #3

    Jan 20, 2012, 04:27 PM
    Many newer gas inserts have both a thermocouple and a powerpile. If the thermocouple is good, the pilot will stay lit, but if the powerpile is weak, it won't allow the main gas valve to open. Are there a red and while wire with a silver cover hooked to the gas valve? If so, I would start by checking the millivolts that the powerpile is producing when the pilot has been lit for at least a minute or so. This will require a multimeter.

    Can you let us know the model of the insert and approximately how old it is?
    jareddevich82's Avatar
    jareddevich82 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jan 20, 2012, 06:33 PM
    The stove has 2 different company logos FPI and regency not sure the year but this house was built in 2006.
    I don't see a switch anywhere near the stove on wall or inside where controls are. I do see a red and white wire with silver fork terminals going to control valve. Power coming into stove is a 3 wire cable red white and green, of those wires the white is connected to the red the green goes to its own location and the red wire is not used, does that sound right?
    SeattlePioneer's Avatar
    SeattlePioneer Posts: 97, Reputation: 9
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    #5

    Jan 20, 2012, 07:09 PM
    Sorry, can't tell much from your description. Have you EVER had the fireplace turned on? If so, how did you turn it on?


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    jareddevich82 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jan 20, 2012, 08:16 PM
    Never had it on, bought this house from bank in September the pilot was on when we first looked at house, I didn't try to turn it on high that day, I turned it off then about 3 months later moved in and tried to use it and it won't go from low to high. Someone told me maybe a spider built a web in main gas line.
    SeattlePioneer's Avatar
    SeattlePioneer Posts: 97, Reputation: 9
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    #7

    Jan 20, 2012, 09:12 PM
    Does the pilot flame have one rod in the flame about 1/3" in diameter, or two rods, one about 1/3" and the second about 1/8"?

    If there is only the one, the following would probably apply:

    Usually the electrical terminals on the gas valve would be named. The connections to turn on the main burner gas would be connected to the TH and TH/TP terminals on the gas valve.

    TH/TP should also have a connection to the pilot generator, and a second going to the switch or thermostat to turn on the main burner. The other connection to the switch or main burner would be wired to the TH terminal on the gas valve.

    Are there wires connected to those terminals? If so, where do they go and what are they connected to? They should go to the switch or thermostat which would turn on the main burner in the fireplace.


    Did you get a good deal on your repo?
    jareddevich82's Avatar
    jareddevich82 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jan 21, 2012, 12:22 PM
    OK, I see the th, th/tp, and tp on the valve. The power supply coming into the stove has 3 wires, red white and green. The white wire is going to tp/th which is where the red stove wire is. The green power supply wire is going to th all by itself. The red supply wire is not used. The white stove wire is on tp all by itself. When I say stove wire I mean its 2 wires together inside a casing going from valve area to underneath the stove.
    Ya I got this house for $154000 and it sold in 2007 one year after it was built for $325000.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #9

    Jan 21, 2012, 03:07 PM
    Okay, well the red, white and green wire lead to either your wall switch or stat. If you can't find switch or stat, take a piece of wire and jump the terminals on the gas valve where the red and green wires hook. Do the main burners come on now? If so, the unit is working correctly, just need to find the switch or stat. If you just can't find one, I would suggest purchasing a fireplace remote system. Just make sure it is compatible with a millivolt system. You should be able to find one of these at any gas fireplace/insert dealer.

    Don't for any reason leave the gas valve jumpered. Definite safety issue. Only jump for testing.
    SeattlePioneer's Avatar
    SeattlePioneer Posts: 97, Reputation: 9
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    #10

    Jan 22, 2012, 01:07 PM
    Those wires ought to be connected to a switch to turn on the main burner as suggested by dad. See if you can find where they terminate.


    You can connect a remote if you wish. Simpler would be mounting a switch on the fireplace and connecting that to the TH/TP and TH terminals to turn on the main burner.

    A simple switch can be purchased at a hardware store that mounts through a hole drilled in the sheet metal of the fireplace.

    Remote controls are fine, but you might find them relatively complex to install and get working right, and they are somewhat prone to failure.

    A simple switch is simpler, cheaper and more reliable.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #11

    Jan 22, 2012, 04:24 PM
    I agree completely SP. Remote stats do seems to be a bit problematic, not to mention you have to change batteries, be within a certain distance for them to work correctly, etc. However, overall, I prefer a wired stat over a wall switch. Just too easy to forget to turn the switch back off, allowing the system to run for hours and hours when you aren't home. I guess it really all depends on if the user is using the gas insert for actuall heat, or more for looks. If strictly for heat, a wired stat is the best bet. If they just want to be able to look at a pretty fire now and again while they are in the room, wall switch would seem more logical. Keep in mind, this is only one mans opinion:)
    jareddevich82's Avatar
    jareddevich82 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Jan 22, 2012, 10:11 PM
    Thank you so much for your help, I installed a jumper wire and stove is working. I would rather get a remote than install switch or stat. my stove is in great room which is coldest room in my 2 story house, where my kids rooms are. I would rather run stove and heat great room and upstairs rather than furnace heat whole 1900 square foot home. Does the furnace or stove which are both nat gas consume more BTU?
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #13

    Jan 23, 2012, 05:27 PM
    Okay, when you get the remote stat, make sure to read through the install instructions very closely. Very important to set it up correctly. Usually pretty easy if you follow the instructions word for word.

    Im sure your furnace is a much larger BTU than the insert but its more the efficiency that matters. Your insert won't be more than low 80% eff at best. Your furnace could be anywhere from 80 to 96 percent efficient depending on the make and model. You will just have to give it a winter to figure out which way is the most efficient to run the insert vs furnace. Good luck with everything, and please let us know if you need further assistance.

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