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    SCOTTDM's Avatar
    SCOTTDM Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #1

    Jan 31, 2007, 03:52 PM
    RE-soldering p-trap to copper pipe
    (New user) I have a 1-1/2" copper p-trap & drain line in my basement that has burst at the drain pipe right after the trap, can I sweat the pipe out of the end of the trap and reuse the trap with new copper 1-1/2" piping, will it hold?
    SCOTTDM's Avatar
    SCOTTDM Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #2

    Jan 31, 2007, 03:55 PM
    Copper drain to pvc p-trap to copper drain line ?
    Can I cut out a copper p-trap and replace it with a pvc trap without replacing the remainder of the drain line?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #3

    Jan 31, 2007, 03:59 PM
    I haven't seen too many copper "P" traps. Brass ones yes but not copper. Where has the pipe burst? The stubout coming out of the wall or the trap tail coming out of the "J" bend? Please describe it in detail? Regards, Tom
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    SCOTTDM Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Feb 6, 2007, 05:02 PM
    The pipe has burst 1/2" from the j bend on the trap tail.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #5

    Feb 6, 2007, 05:13 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by SCOTTDM
    The pipe has burst 1/2" from the j bend on the trap tail.
    That piece is called the trap tail and is part of the trap so the entire trap will have to be replaced. You do have options. You can unsolder the trap tail from the stubout and install a new trap**or** you can unsolder the trap tail from the stubout and then solder on a 1 1/2" slip to male thread Midland Bushing,( adapter) and convert to PVC using a slip to female thread PVC coupling. Good luck, Tom
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #6

    Feb 6, 2007, 05:14 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by SCOTTDM
    The pipe has burst 1/2" from the j bend on the trap tail.
    You can buy what is called a 'code adapter', which is basically a brass or copper sweat on trap adapter, and then use a pvc tubular plastic p-trap.

    You are allowed to use 50/50 solder to sweat the adapter on, which is a lot easier to use than 95/5 solder.
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