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trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 07:55 AM

92 accord, no spark. Came into my shop with a bad ignition lock cylinder. Replaced that and it won't start. I replaced the distributor and still nothing.

Tried...

Distributor, didn't fix it.

K test on map sensor, if it's the black box on firewall with 2 connectors on the outside of it, and got no voltage. On right connector red wire.

The main relay doesn't click

Tried jumping the check engine light, but it doesn't seem to work, c.e.l. is on, but jumping 2 prong connector on pass floorboard doesn't make it blink.

There is no fuel pump noise either.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 08:07 AM

The ECM is shot, if you performed the K-Test properly. MAP Sensors have a 3-wire connector going to them, with a hose to the throttle body. Turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), when you run the test.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 08:11 AM

Replacing the ECM should solve all of your problems:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 08:34 AM

Tested all fuses, have 12 volts to the dist.

I used a multimeter, key in position 2, tried using multiple grounds to ensure good reading, and got nothing.

The map sensor is on the pass side firewall, with a blue honda motor sticker on it, and has 2 connectors on it, with 3 vacuum lines running to the throttle body, correct?

My main question is, why can't I get the check engine light to blink? The blue connector on the pass kickpanel should make the cel blink when jumpered correct?

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 08:37 AM

You can't get the CEL to blink, because the ECM has failed. Install a new ECM and EVERYTHING should work flawlessly. Easy job.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 08:50 AM

If the CEL stays on, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Since we know that the fuses and the ignition switch are good, the problem is with either the ECM or main relay. Since the ECM completely fails the K-Test, it's the real problem. Main relays never cause the problems you are experiencing.

trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 08:51 AM

Weird. What would cause the ecm to fail? The key would barely turn in the cylinder, so I replaced it, the car wouldn't start before then though. Would that have any relation to the ecm dying?

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 08:55 AM

Unlikely the switch had anything to do with the ECM failing. ECM failure is fairly common on older Hondas. Frequently, the electrolytic capacitors start to leak and then burn through. Remove the cover to the ECM and you may see a bad capacitor or microprocessors crazed by heat.

Install a remanufactured ECM for around $275. Shop for price and warranty--then, your customer will be happy.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 09:33 AM

The main relay doesn't click, because the ECM is toast. Grounding for the second relay inside the main relay is controlled by the ECM. The "weight of the evidence" overwhelmingly points to a failed ECM.

trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 01:04 PM

Replaced the ecm, still doesn't have spark. Now what

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 01:21 PM

Go back and test all under hood and under dash fuses with your multimeter. Especially, check the BACKUP Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, and the ACG (S) (ALT) fuse, in the under dash fuse box. The latter fuse is likely located in the upper right-hand corner of the fuse box, along with the SRS fuses. Additionally, clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. It likely has 3-wires going into a brass connector.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 01:29 PM

With the new ECM, and after cleaning the main ECM ground, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 01:30 PM

*** am I doing wrong to not be able to get the cel to flash?

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 01:33 PM

Yes. Remove the shunt going to the Service Check Connector. Before checking for codes, you need to make sure the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes off, when the ignition switch is turned to ON.

trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 01:36 PM

The cel stays on permanently.

trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 01:38 PM

Also, I still get no voltage to the map sensor

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 01:45 PM

Clean the main ECM ground, check the BACKUP Fuse, check the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, and make sure you are really dealing with the MAP Sensor.

trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 01:48 PM

You have a pic of the map sensor? I can't find a good one online.

And where is the ACG alt s fuse?

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 25, 2011, 01:54 PM

Go to AutoZone.com and plug in the data for a 1992 Accord and you will see what it looks like.

Check the cover for where the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse may be; otherwise, be very thorough and check all under dash fuses.

trqjnky · Jan 25, 2011, 01:55 PM

WHAT... THE... FFUUUUUCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKKK...

THE ACS ALT S FUSE... WAS GONE!!

How did this car run without it??

Why was it missing?

I've worked on this car before, replaced the dist. on it twice. And I am the only mechanic to touch it as far as I know... so w t f??