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    jayRoss's Avatar
    jayRoss Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 9, 2007, 02:39 PM
    Are all shower pan drains replaceable?
    After reading several posts about the difficulties in removing a drain from a shower pan, I am wondering if it is even possible to do so in my case. The shower pan in question appears to be a pre-poured (possibly Terrazzo) base, with a galvanized drain pipe. The pipe has no fitting on the underside of the base. The drain itself is brass, but no name or number visible. It's hard to tell, but my guess would be that the drain pipe is threaded into the drain, but were other methods used 35-40 years ago? Two pictures are attached (I hope)

    Does anyone have an idea if the drain would normally be replaceable and if so, any suggestions of how to remove it? It does not have an internal cross-bar or spanner slots to work with. I could probably drill into the broken screws and use it as a means of turning with a spanner, if that's what I am up against. However, my concern, is not only is it possible to remove the existing drain, but will I be able to locate a new one to replace it with. Thank you.

    PS: Of course, I am also worried about breaking the shower pan.
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    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #2

    Jan 9, 2007, 04:43 PM
    Take a knife and scrape around the piece that you have marked "pipe flange".
    Is it shiny gray softer metal? Let me know, Tom
    jayRoss's Avatar
    jayRoss Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 9, 2007, 09:00 PM
    After using the knife, the part that I called "pipe flange" is exactly as you described (soft and shiny.) Actually, it looks like lead.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #4

    Jan 10, 2007, 09:56 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by jayRoss
    After using the knife, the part that I called "pipe flange" is exactly as you described (soft and shiny.) Actually, it looks like lead.
    You have a lead and oakum poured joint. To remove a poured lead and oakum joint take a 3/8" drill bit and drill a few holes down past the lead and into the oakum.. Push a screwdriver under the lead ring and lever it up. Once it's free you can began to peel the lead ring out. Now pick out the oakum and you can pull the joint apart. Good luck, Tom
    jayRoss's Avatar
    jayRoss Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 10, 2007, 11:20 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1
    .. and you can pull the joint apart. good luck, Tom
    1. Since you said "pull the joint apart, It sounds like it is not threaded in any way below or behind the lead and oakum. Therefore, do you feel I will need a special tool to "pull the joint apart?"

    2. As for the replacement drain, am I locked into using the same system (lead/oakum, etc.) or are there other options available? Either way, I would also appreciate a source if it is not a common product.

    Thanks again.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #6

    Jan 10, 2007, 11:57 AM
    To remove a poured lead and oakum joint take a 3/8" drill bit and drill a few holes down past the lead and into the oakum.. Push a screwdriver under the lead ring and lever it up. Once it's free you can began to peel the lead ring out. Now pick out the oakum and you can pull the joint apart.
    No special tools needed.

    2. As for the replacement drain, am I locked into using the same system (lead/oakum, etc.) or are there other options available? Either way, I would also appreciate a source if it is not a common product.

    If you're not comfortable working with molted lead I would use lead wool in its place. I don't know of any replacement drain that would fit into the drain that's built into the your base. Either change the base or go for another lead joint. Regards, Tom
    jayRoss's Avatar
    jayRoss Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 10, 2007, 02:12 PM
    Thanks again. Now that I have a starting point and feel reasonably comfortable about removing the drain, I will begin the project as soon as I locate the replacement drain. At least I know what to ask for. I will also return to comment on the result (if this is desired by your web-site) but I will definitely return if I decide to replace the entire base.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #8

    Jan 10, 2007, 03:12 PM
    Any time you need us we're as close as a click. Cheers, Tom
    jayRoss's Avatar
    jayRoss Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jan 25, 2007, 04:27 PM
    This is a follow-up with another question. The drain was removed easily, just as your instructions stated. Originally, I was going to keep the stone base, however, learning that standard glass enclosures will not fit properly, I decided to remove it.

    My question reverts back to the replacement drain. Now that I will end up with an acrylic base, the drains that come with all of these bases are designed for PVC pipe. Do you think this will work with the existing cast iron pipe of the same size?

    I read somewhere that I may have to cut the C.I. pipe and couple with PVC pipe directly under the drain. Does this sound right ?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #10

    Jan 26, 2007, 08:55 AM
    That's a tough call. If were me and the drain fits over the cast iron stubup I would pour a lead and oakum caulked joint or use lead wool instead of molted lead. You only other option is to convert to PVC for the stub-up. Good luck, Tom

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