[chelle799]

I have a 2001 Hyundai Sonata that we have replaced the battery which was the solution and fix the initial problem. However, a week later I got into the car to start it and it would not turn over at all. My husband determined it was the starter so we have just replaced it. Now the car still will not start. Does anyone know why or what has caused this to happen and a solution or something else to look for? Please help.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. If the starter motor won't crank:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

. If the starter motor cranks, but the engine won't start:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2123675

[chelle799]

TxGreaseMonkey - Thank you for the info. I looked at those links on a previous post you had made and already tried those solutions to no avail. When the key is turned the starter relay clicks but no power goes to the solenoid, final guess is neutral safety switch? (After replacing the starter the car started 3 times but now is doing same thing again, not starting).

[CaptainRich]

TxGreaseMonkey - Thank you for the info. I looked at those links on a previous post you had made and already tried those solutions to no avail. When the key is turned the starter relay clicks but no power goes to the solenoid, final guess is neutral safety switch? (After replacing the starter the car started 3 times but now is doing same thing again, not starting).

No, if the starter relay is clicking, power is already through the neutral safety switch.
You say the relay clicks but no power goes to the solenoid, but does any come out of the relay on that Purple wire? If not, replace the relay and repeat that last test. The contacts inside the starter relay may have gotten corroded and won't allow current through.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

CaptainRich is right on target--the neutral safety switch is definitely OK. The starter relay and starter solenoid are the same thing. Clean all connections with abrasive cloth. If the problem persists, replace the starter motor and solenoid. The quality of aftermarket starters and alternators leaves a lot to be desired. Next time, try OEM. It wouldn't surprise me if the over-running starter motor clutch is bad.

[chelle799]

Oh thank you both so much. We took the starter to Pep Boys and they tested it for us. It was not working, no current. We found another starter and replaced it. Now the car will turn over but will not run. Again, my hubby has done all the tests for the battery and fuses. He determined it needed a new fuel pump because when the key was turned to "on" you couldn't hear the pump come on. Now we have just replaced the fuel pump (15 minutes ago) and the car will still not run. AAGGHH this is so frustrating. I have clicked the link you gave me previously TxGreaseMonkey for the Basic Ignition Troubleshooting and we are performing all of those tests now. Any other ideas as to what the problem may be now? Again thank you for all your help TxGreaseMonkey and CaptainRich and anyone else who can assist.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Modern-day fuel pumps are extremely reliable and are almost never the problem. The problem is usually that the fuel pump doesn't run because of a fuse, ignition switch, ECM, or ECM ground.

I'm not familiar with your car, but the link below will give you perspective on where I'm coming from:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523

Use the link to give you ideas on troubleshooting your situation. See if there's a Haynes Manual for your car.

[chelle799]

Ok, new update, we once again tested fuses, this time by pulling them out to look at them and waaalaaa, we found that the ECU fuses was blown. So we replaced it with a spare fuse and as soon as we started the car (we heard the fiel pump come on), the ECU fuse blew again. Any thoughts on why this is happening?

[chelle799]

Thank you and sorry I just read your response TxGreaseMonkey. I am taking that info to my hubby now. I will let you know.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You need to check this out carefully, but it sounds like there's a short in the ECM (computer) or with the wiring. Get a manual that covers the electrical system for your car. Find out what else, if anything, that fuse goes to; e.g. fuel pump relay, fuel pump, VSS, etc. Start checking everything out. From my experience, the problem is usually with a component that goes, not with the wiring harness. This is a generalization, however. Don't start just replacing parts--this usually doesn't work. Check all other fuses carefully, using a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Make sure other fuses are not blowing. Again, I don't think you have a fuel issue at all. Your whole problem involves why that fuse is blowing.

ECMs are not bullet proof. In fact, I frequently recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years. If you buy a remanufactured ECM, shop for price and warranty. Remove your old ECM first and buy an exact part no. match--no substitutes! Because of the expense on an ECM, this is the last resort.

[CaptainRich]

Ok, new update, we once again tested fuses, this time by pulling them out to look at them and waaalaaa, we found that the ECU fuses was blown. So we replaced it with a spare fuse and as soon as we started the car (we heard the fiel pump come on), the ECU fuse blew again. Any thoughts on why this is happening?

Exactly which fuse goes open? What size fuse is it?