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    SuperDuty's Avatar
    SuperDuty Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Dec 17, 2006, 10:23 PM
    1991 Honda Civic Ignition
    I am referring to an article posted by CroCivic in May 2005, which details testing the Honda ignition system.

    In the section on how to diagnose the Igniter Unit, I do not have continuity between the BLU wire and ground. The WHT wire measures 198k ohms. The article states to check for an open in the BLU wire between the Igniter Unit and the A/T control unit. Where is the A/T control Unit located? Is it the box on the passenger side of the radio? Can a faulty A/T control unit cause the BLU wire to be open to ground?

    Any help would be appreciate.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Dec 18, 2006, 08:00 AM
    Read the sections on ignition system troubleshooting:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ons-46563.html

    If you perform the tests listed, you will locate the problem.

    You want to disconnect the BLU tachometer wire and see if the engine starts, because, if there's a short in the tachometer, it can prevent starting.
    SuperDuty's Avatar
    SuperDuty Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Dec 25, 2006, 08:36 AM
    Where is the MAP sensor located and what does it look like?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Dec 25, 2006, 09:03 AM
    It's a small box-shaped sensor, approx. 1.75"x1"x1", with a vacuum hose from the intake throttle body going to it, that is located in the middle of the firewall. It has a 3P connector going to it. It's located just to the right of the fuel filter.
    SuperDuty's Avatar
    SuperDuty Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Dec 25, 2006, 09:40 AM
    I found it. Thanks. Is there a way to check the MAP? I took ohm readings from all the terminals to ground and between the terminals and got nothing. Do you know of a way to jumper or simulated an input to the computer from the MAP. If I could do that maybe I would at least get some spark when cranking and verify this piece is bad. I do have 5 volts at the MAP.

    Everything else seems to check out. The only other part I am not sure of is the ICM. I had it checked at the Auto store and they claim it is good. I don't know how reliable their testing is.
    SuperDuty's Avatar
    SuperDuty Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Dec 27, 2006, 04:52 PM
    I found a good article on MAP sensors at the following URL:
    AutoZone.com | Repair Info | MAP Sensor - How To Instructions

    It gave me enough information to check the sensor and determine it was good.
    HWYTOM's Avatar
    HWYTOM Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 30, 2007, 10:05 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDuty
    I am referring to an article posted by CroCivic in May 2005, which details testing the Honda ignition system.

    In the section on how to diagnose the Igniter Unit, I do not have continuity between the BLU wire and ground. The WHT wire measures 198k ohms. The article states to check for an open in the BLU wire between the Igniter Unit and the A/T control unit. Where is the A/T control Unit located? Is it the box on the passenger side of the radio? Can a faulty A/T control unit cause the BLU wire to be open to ground?

    Any help would be appreciate.
    More then not probable for problem check your bearing in distributer shaft for wear,we have replaced several distributers in these cars,best option used factory,or new factory,we have hadproblems with foreign,and european after market parts,even napas top plug wires and cap,example land rovers,guy had another shop do a tune up with napa top line I told him his wires,cap and rotor were junk,he beged to differ but after my diagnoisis I told him if they didn't work I would buy his parts,needless to say,he is a happy customer who still brings me his oddities in vehicle choices.
    mrpiccolo444's Avatar
    mrpiccolo444 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Aug 1, 2009, 06:11 PM
    I want to say thank you for the advice on here... and others that you posted... it really helped me out. And for the others I want to give them a heads up if they have the same domino effect I had so they can be prepared for what I had to go through. The first thing needed and replaced was the main starter relay that is just above the hood latch on the inside of the car, then after that the Ignition Coil went out, I replaced that and then replaced the map sensor (from a junk yard for 6.50) and that didn't fix it and then I replaced the Ignitor and it started right up. So I would fix one and the next went out. So when you replace one be prepared to replace the rest :-( BUT the car sounds better then it has since I have owned it so I am excited :-D

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