Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #21

    Jun 16, 2010, 07:41 PM

    Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.
    ibensous's Avatar
    ibensous Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #22

    Jun 17, 2010, 06:06 AM

    - I've tested the alternator and its working properly

    - I'm going to set the spark plugs out now and hopefully if the engine is flooded this will clear it.

    -I have no way of checking the compression because I don't have a compression gauge. Is there any way to tell if it's the compression otherwise?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #23

    Jun 17, 2010, 06:31 AM

    Only if it sounds like there's no compression, which may not be reliable.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #24

    Jun 17, 2010, 06:32 AM

    Did you perform the Power to Distributor Test?
    ibensous's Avatar
    ibensous Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #25

    Jun 17, 2010, 07:16 AM

    I did and the distributor is getting power.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #26

    Jun 17, 2010, 07:36 AM

    Does the CEL come on and go off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?
    ibensous's Avatar
    ibensous Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #27

    Jun 17, 2010, 07:44 AM

    Yes
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #28

    Jun 17, 2010, 08:23 AM

    If your new distributor is good, I don't know why your Civic doesn't start. Everything seems to checkout.
    ibensous's Avatar
    ibensous Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #29

    Jun 17, 2010, 08:52 AM

    Well I just spoke with Honda and they said my timing belt might be spinning to fast but I don't see how that'd happen.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #30

    Jun 17, 2010, 08:58 AM

    The timing belt may have slipped or the tensioner loosened. I wonder if the previous owner had the work done at Honda. If you think that's a possibility, be careful. It's an interference engine, where a lot of damage could be done to the valves and pistons. Have it towed to Honda. You may want to take the cover off and check things out for yourself.

    Did you mark the distributor and mount, so the timing would be close when you installed the new distributor?

    If the TB slipped, that could easily explain the original code that was thrown. Timing (spark) is based on TDC of Cylinder #1.
    ibensous's Avatar
    ibensous Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #31

    Jun 17, 2010, 09:12 AM

    I took pictures of which way the router was facing and which way the other end of the distributor was facing and that's how I put the distributor back in.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #32

    Jun 17, 2010, 09:18 AM

    Because of the offset shaft, you can't install the distributor incorrectly. If you did not mark the distributor and mount, then the timing may be too far retarded. If you don't believe there's a problem with the timing belt, loosen the 3 distributor mounting bolts and rotate the distributor slightly counterclockwise. This will advance the timing.
    ibensous's Avatar
    ibensous Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #33

    Jun 17, 2010, 09:47 AM

    Well I've given up. I've spoken to several of my dads friends who are mechanics and they've taken a look at the car and no one can figure out why its not turning so I'm getting it towed to one of their shops. Thanks for all your help GreaseMonkey. I'll keep you posted as to what the problem(s) are when the car finally starts running.
    ibensous's Avatar
    ibensous Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #34

    Jun 18, 2010, 08:21 AM

    My main relay was faulty and it needed to be changed.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #35

    Jun 18, 2010, 09:55 AM

    Glad to see you got it running.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Honda civic has no spark [ 1 Answers ]

Need to know how to test the ignitor and voltage regulator. Thanks

I have a 92 honda civic and it has no spark [ 3 Answers ]

My civic would sputtering the first 20 seconds I was driving it and then it would run fine and now it won't start at all. It has no spark what so ever. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor, coil pack, ignition modulator, fuel filter, and the ckp sensor. What should I do I have...

Honda civic no spark [ 1 Answers ]

I found my distributor fried so I replaced the distributor and cap . Still no spark . What next ?

NO spark 92 Honda Civic LX [ 1 Answers ]

92 honda civic cranks this. Router turns no spark replaced this. Cap and router and in moud in this. What should I LOOK FOR

90 honda civic no spark [ 4 Answers ]

My 90 civic has no spark believe it is the ignition ignitor but my ECU tells me it is the fuel injection system(code 16). I tested the main relay, ignition coil(both good), and replaced the rotor and cap. Still no spark, so reading other posts I believe it to be the ignitor. But the ECU thing is...


View more questions Search