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onnenjer · Jun 11, 2010, 02:41 PM

Bought a used 1999 honda accord 4 cyl 1 year ago and it has always stalled intermittently. Started once every 3 weeks and it always started right back up. (it actually only happened when my wife drove the car for the first 3 months and I kind of didn't believe her) It has waxed and wained and does it with no rhyme or reason. Just after starting, going for 45min, winter and summer, rain or shine, while stopped and accelerating at 60mph. When it happens sometimes everything stops and dash lights come on immediately and sometimes everything stopps for 3-4 sec with no response of the accelerator and the power steering is gone and Then the dash lights come on. No increase in RPm's prior to stop just RPM's drop out and it dies. Sometimes it starts up immediately and sometime it has taken 10 minutes. Never idles rough and is always around 750rpms when warmed. I have OBD II scanner and had it scanning WHILE it has stalled, Right after it has stalled and everything in between and There are NO codes being sent.
Replaced ICM, Spark Plugs, SP Wires, OEM Distributer Cap and Rotor, MAP sensor, and Ignition switch, PVC valve.
Performed OBD II scanning with no success numerous times.
Tested ALL Fuses under Dash and in Engine compartment.
Performed K-test at MAP sensor and it shows 5.0V coming from PCM.
Took out PCM and Looked at cover (yes I know not very specific/sensitive of a test) and it looks pristine.
Checked main relay and it clicks when I turn the key and 2 secs later and you can feel it both times.
You can hear fuel pump as well.
What next? This thing is driving me nuts.
Oh yeah and I called the local dealer here and the let me know that they had it in their shop a little while before I bought it for the same thing. They put it on their wonder scanner and it didn't show anything. They did notice that the ignition switch was not replaced and they replaced that (wish I knew that before I replaced it again) but said the car was fine.
Any ideas?
Jer

TxGreaseMonkey · Jun 11, 2010, 05:13 PM

If you applied heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM, then I would replace the distributor housing (genuine Honda only). The internal sensors are likely breaking down intermittently. Install your current ICM to save money. Ensure all distributor connectors are clean and tight. This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

I would also replace the external coil, especially if it has never been replaced. I've seen numerous instances when they break down under load (heat). This should solve the problem.

onnenjer · Jun 12, 2010, 04:22 AM

I forgot to add that I replaced the coil as well. I will check out the housing. And keep you posted.

onnenjer · Jun 12, 2010, 08:37 AM

Quick update: I checked the CYP sensor as described in the manuel with my multimeter and it had appropriate resistance and none of the leads had continuity with ground as is required by the manuel, I also read a post somewhere else to pull the 7.5 backup fuse after replacing any sensors to reset PCM and since I didn't do that before when I replaced all of the others I thought I would do that now. Well then it started once and died and then started and died immediately and then started and when I tried to push the pedal died and then just wouldn't start period. I left it alone for 10 min. then it started right up but was smoking out the exhaust mildly. I then ran it a while and that went away but that was a really interesting experience. I don't know if I created another problem or what but will monitor it for a while.

onnenjer · Jun 23, 2010, 01:36 PM

So of course it still stalls, happened after one week of running very well. Do you think the CYP is likely the culprit even if it tests out OK. Hate to spend $160 on top of all the other $'s I have already dished out.

onnenjer · Aug 30, 2010, 05:50 PM

It ended up being the Main relay. Go figure. 60$ part and real easy to replace.

ashlym84 · Oct 2, 2010, 10:55 AM

I am having the same problem with my 98 honda crv. I've googled and several people are having this issue and very few blogs are saying what the issue is after they spent so much money buying parts they really didn't need! I also believe my main relay needs to be replaced. Gunn Honda in San Antonio, TX had my car for 8 hours and could not find the problem. The first day, they assumed it was the ignition switch (recall part); after that part was replaced my car still stalled. Before the part was replaced Express Lube assumed I need a fuel injection service, which I did. Still stalled, then I got the fuel pump pressure tested, pressure was fine. Still stalled. I went to auto zone, their computer said I need new spark plugs... replaced that was 13 bucks, along with spark plug wires (warrenty). Still stalled, took it back to Honda where they had it for 8 hours. I needed my car, so, I picked it up. Still stalled! Went back to autozone, tested again, no codes, again! They lady said lets check your battery, battery was BAD! Mostly likely because of the weather here. Replaced battery (warrenty). Car stalled last night, driving up the ramp to I-10 west. Do you know how scary they is, stalling, stalling on the freeway, rush hour traffic, so scary! And that Honda dealership does not know what the hell is wrong with my car!! Today, Oreailly's is getting the main relay for me. I hope it is the problem. I have no other choice! I'm going to write a letter to Honda Corporate and complain and informing TEXAS DMV. We shouldnot have to go through this!

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 2, 2010, 11:07 AM

ashlym84, I'm virtually certain that replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil will solve your problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Very common problem with Hondas. Run a search on this site and see for yourself. Failing main relays, ICMs, and coils account for most stalling issues--they break down under load (heat). It's best to replace these items every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

ashlym84 · Oct 2, 2010, 11:26 AM

Something I didn't mention was when I turn the key, the battery light and oil light is on... but both have been replaced/changed oil. When car is on the lights go away...

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 2, 2010, 11:32 AM

Does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? If it does, then I think you have a standard Honda distributor problem, where the ICM and/or coil is breaking down under load. ICMs are very problematic on Hondas. The Honda dealer should not have missed this.

ashlym84 · Oct 2, 2010, 11:41 AM

I just checked, when key is in the 2 position, the check engine light is on then cuts off, 6 beeping noises (which I just noticed or never paid attention to.), with oil light, battery light, park light, green drive light, sometimes the SR.. or something light(the light in the lowest position on the dash (air bag light)). I was at autozone this morning and they used their yellow/orange handheld.. no codes, again. My friend asked me, if the Honda dealership did a dynamic, I assumed they did because they gave a sheet with proposal work.

ashlym84 · Oct 2, 2010, 11:44 AM

My I should have mentioned, I keep good maintaince on my car, even though it's 1998 Honda CRV, with 169,xxx miles. And yes Honda Dealerships should know the problem and not force people to buy all these parts and guessing.

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 2, 2010, 11:49 AM

As you mentioned, this is a very dangerous situation. Intermittent problems like these do not usually show up during diagnostic tests--only in gross (total failure) situations. What I'm sharing with you comes from my experience with helping many people with problems like yours. It takes about 45 minutes, or less, to change the ICM and coil. If you follow my steps you can do the work yourself. Aftermarket ICMs (igniters) and coils have proven reliable on this site.

ashlym84 · Oct 2, 2010, 11:57 AM

Okay, ICMs, coils, main relay (by the steering wheel). O'Rielly ordered the main relay (lifetime warrenty) for me. I'll follow your directions. Any sugguestions where to locate aftermarkets parts?

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 2, 2010, 12:01 PM

O'Reilly Auto Parts, AutoZone, or Advance Auto. Shop price and warranty. Replacing these three components should end your nightmare situation.

Be sure to apply the heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM; otherwise, it won't last long.

Keep us posted with the results.

ashlym84 · Oct 4, 2010, 09:18 AM

Hey! My engine light actually stayed on. I quickly went to Advanced Auto for testing. Code: p0420 Catalyst Efficiency below threshold...

What does that mean?

ashlym84 · Oct 4, 2010, 09:19 AM

Car stalled 3 times last night. And 3 times this morning.

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 4, 2010, 09:42 AM

Now, this is getting more complicated. The catalytic converter likely needs replacing. The question is why? It may be that incomplete combustion, due to a failing ICM, coil, or plugs, damaged the converter with too much raw gas. You need to reflect on what's the likely scenario, if possible. Some mechanics will also recommend replacing the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors. If you go this route, only install Denso oxygen sensors.

ashlym84 · Oct 4, 2010, 10:02 AM

Basically, whatever is causing the stall caused the code p0420 to appear...

I'm dropping my car off at the honda dealership tomorrow morning... my car has been stalling for 3 weeks, I'm tired of it... and if all repairs comes out to over $600, really what is the point with the age of the vehicle...

ashlym84 · Oct 6, 2010, 03:07 PM

Hey! Honda finally told me I need to replace coil igniter, distributer cap, spark plugs, spark wires and something else (starts with a "r"). Basically the ignition, as you mentioned. But, I already replaced the spark plugs and sparkwires... so not buying that. Est. cost $700.00, now I'm asking if that comes with a warranty on labor and parts, if that's not the problem...

What is your opinion?