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    tutomut3's Avatar
    tutomut3 Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    May 9, 2010, 11:36 PM
    Rwd does't work. Troy bilt mower. New belt and wheels. What's next?
    I have a troy bilt model series 830. The drive wheels don't work properly. They will spin when the lever is engaged and the wheels are off the ground, but as soon as they touch the ground, nothing. I've replaced the belt and the wheels (one was broken). Adjusted the cable. It will loosen and tighten the lever. Which is the hand trigger on this model. What else could it be? It' a 2005 but only used for about 1- 2 years before the problem occurred. Always kept in doors. Maybe something's wrong with the cable or the spring on the bottom end, or the trans assembly? Any ideas?

    Thanks
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    tutomut3 Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #2

    May 10, 2010, 06:02 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Cool man View Post
    Great content and very helpful thank and keep up the good work.
    That was my question. The drive wheels still won't work. I don't what to rip open the gear box if it doesn't need to be done! Looking for some suggestions.

    Thanks
    corynski's Avatar
    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    May 10, 2010, 11:59 AM
    Same situation here, the drive wheels don't go when it touches the ground. I called a shop and they said it was about a $50 repair, but he hadn't looked at it yet.

    I'm still looking for drawings, has anyone found the drawings?
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    May 10, 2010, 11:59 AM
    Same situation here, the drive wheels don't go when it touches the ground. I called a shop and they said it was about a $50 repair, but he hadn't looked at it yet.

    I'm still looking for drawings, has anyone found the drawings?
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    tutomut3 Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    May 10, 2010, 10:46 PM

    Go to Lawn Mower Parts. You can find a diagram there. Let me know what the shop says if they look at it.
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    tutomut3 Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    May 10, 2010, 10:47 PM

    You'll have to know your model number.
    corynski's Avatar
    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    May 11, 2010, 07:03 AM

    Hello Tutomut3

    Yes, I have it... Mod 12AV566NO11, now let's see how I make out. I thank you for the lead.
    corynski's Avatar
    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    May 11, 2010, 07:19 AM

    Good grief... What a can of worms. No drawing and I have no idea what the parts are called. I suspect the problem may be in the gear box (?), or inside the wheels. I haven't tried to open the wheels yet.

    I've always found the drawing and part number system to work well, but apparently the Troy Built people don't. I've found the model and serial numbers, plus a tag that has 675 Series on it, 21 inch, 190 cc and '3 in 1, whatever that means. How could I know the part number if I don't have a drawing. I looked in my files too but couldn't find any info or drawings.

    Maybe try Troy Built... Or my local parts man.

    Hmmmm... Great challenge, this...
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    May 11, 2010, 07:37 AM

    Success. I dialed the 877 number and Scott walked me through the web pages. Thank you Scott, this old timer has trouble with computers and such.

    The part number got me to the drawing which showed the gear box and the wheel assembly. Gear box is $95, and a wheel is $5.49. I'm going out to check the situation, I'm guessing the plastic wheel parts have taken a beating and that is the solution. Or it could be the gear box is out, we'll see...
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    May 11, 2010, 08:15 AM

    Simple enough to get the wheels off, but no damage detected. The plastic gear run in both wheels is not damaged at all as I suspected it would be, nor are the gears worn, but I notice the axel shaft itself is worn (grooved), as is the plastic wheel where it slides over the axel. Not sure what that means.

    Well, time to look at the gear box. Who knows, maybe it's filled with plastic too. Worn-out plastic that is...

    Which leads me to the gearbox, and another disassembly.
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    May 11, 2010, 10:55 AM

    Got my neighbor over to look at it. We decided it must be the 'gearbox', or clutch, which doesn't work, as the wheels look good, as does everything else.

    So do I spend $95 for another clutch, or just put some regular wheels on it and use it as a push mower. $95 for the clutch assembly is almost half the price of the mower... What to do? What to do?
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    tutomut3 Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    May 11, 2010, 02:57 PM

    Well opened up the gear box. Few teeth had minor wear. Not enough to prevent the wheels from spinning. So it has to be the cable and or tension spring. Cost about $20 or so. I'll give it a shot. It's cheaper than the trans. Assembly. That will be last thing.
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    May 11, 2010, 03:23 PM

    I'm going to Crossville tomorrow and I'll ask a Troy Built repair guy there what he thinks. It's a real puzzle to me. My mind keeps telling me there must be some kind of a friction clutch in that box, we'll see. And it looks like the whole wheel assembly has to be removed to get it apart.

    Thanks for your input, I guess we're both looking to avoid that $100 repair bill.
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    tutomut3 Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    May 11, 2010, 07:54 PM

    Mine has a little horseshoe shape piece of steel that pushes against the larger gear when the lever is squeezed. When I had someone squeeze it whlie I had it open, there wasn't any movement. But when I manually pushed it against the gear, and then spun one wheel it engaged the smaller gear and looked the way it should. Everything was moving properly. That's why I think it's the cable and or spring.
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    tutomut3 Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    May 11, 2010, 07:56 PM

    I'll keep you posted as well.

    Thanks!
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    May 11, 2010, 10:03 PM

    Wasn't it a lot of work getting the gearbox off? Did the entire wheel assembly have to come off too? It all sounds like something I haven't had any experience with. I've got my mower in the van ready to check with a mechanic tomorrow morning. I should have something definite then.

    My guess is many, many of these mowers must have this same problem, and the mechanics must be aware of it.

    I'll let you know as soon as I learn something.
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    tutomut3 Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    May 11, 2010, 10:13 PM
    Not that tough. Turned the mower over, removed the 8 star screws. The bottom half was a little sticky due to the gasket sealer,but other than that no problem. Didn't need to take anything off. It comes apart like a vehicle differencial. Looks like the inside of a cars rear end.
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    May 11, 2010, 10:21 PM

    All right, that's easier than I would have expected. By the way, did you see this other post regarding a factory recall?


    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/tools-...wer-27523.html

    If this is a Model Series 830 - there was a Recall on them before they even hit the shelves at the store - and Troy Bilt is saying NOTHING ABOUT IT. I know I own one, and just went through this problem myself, the self-propelled system stops working because of the pulley system underneath - the fix is a "kit # 753-05089" and it is under warranty for this - they have a 2-year warranty on them - check your booklet on this - and if you still have your receipt you are covered - even if you take it apart to figure out what is wrong - which is what we did - to discover what the problem was - go to an authorized service center - have them plug in that kit # and they will see the recall notice of 3/21/05 for this - Troy should be sued over this in my opinion - they suck for not pulling these from the shelves - and any other model that this falls under - ticked I am over this - as I did damage to my right hand over this lever you pull to operate this - that is how hard it gets to pull trying to operate it - and beware - the idiots at these stores - also have a habit of putting these together wrong - and you may find the belt pin guards will need to be replaced as well - as they are probably broken off as result of incorrect installation - can't you tell I'm a little peeved over this Takes about a week for an authorized center to fix this - that's about how long you will be without it!
    Your belt is worn out - that is why it won't "drive" while the wheels are on the ground - and why it works while you lift it in the air - DUH! The pulley system is letting it work while in the air - but the belt is too worn to move it while on the ground - it's a "DEFECT"!
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #19

    May 11, 2010, 10:23 PM

    And does that mean you have to get a whole new piece for $95? You think that will fix it? Hopefully it will...
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    corynski Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
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    #20

    May 11, 2010, 10:26 PM

    Wow, it's late after a long day. What I meant to say is "Will a new belt fix it or do we need the $95 part?" I'm going back to research this post.

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