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TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 18, 2010, 05:54 PM

Ask them if a distributor, with that part number, will work in your 1990 Honda Civic, which has such and such an engine. Your engine no. is on the block, just to the left of the exhaust manifold.

Hondaking · Mar 19, 2010, 04:52 PM

Well I found the number on mine and the engine type and matched it with the 91 civic and they were the same but I switched them out the car still didn't turn on but now I look for the fuel pump running and I can't hear it. But when I open the fuel line it has fuel was is that about?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 19, 2010, 05:10 PM

It's good that your have replaced the distributor. Now, we are back to having to probably figure out why the CEL stays on. It's probably not related to the Code 10 situation; instead, it may be related to fuses, main relay, or ignition switch.

Did every fuse test OK with the multimeter? Be exceptionally thorough.

Turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II), not START, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

Based on the previous K-Test, the ECM should be fine.

Hondaking · Mar 19, 2010, 05:28 PM

Yes they all read 12.50 like the battery

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 19, 2010, 05:34 PM

In all likelihood, then, the problem is with the main relay or ignition switch.

Hondaking · Mar 19, 2010, 05:42 PM

Well the book says to test the continuity between 8 and 4 if it don't click replace the relay and it did then it said check the continuity between 5 and 7 if there's no continuity then replace the relay and there wasn't but what would that have to do with it not turning on I mean I don't hear the fuel pump run but I open the fuel line and it has fuel

Hondaking · Mar 19, 2010, 05:45 PM

That test is the main relay test when u unplug the relay iyt has numbers were the relay connects to the connector and u connect a ground and a positive to hear a click

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 19, 2010, 05:45 PM

The main relay controls the fuel pump. You can have fuel in the fuel line but it needs to be 43 to 47 psi--the fuel rail must be fully pressurized for the car to start.

How many pin relay do you have? Do you hear/feel the main relay "click" when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 19, 2010, 05:56 PM

Be sure to clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. It may be a 3-wire brass connector--remove and clean.

If that doesn't work, perform the tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523

Hondaking · Mar 19, 2010, 06:10 PM

It's a seven pin relay and it does click when I turn the key and I don't have a fuel rail its fuel injected but a dpfi (dual point fual injected)

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 19, 2010, 06:12 PM

OK. Perform the tests in the link I just gave you. You should be very close to getting it to run--don't give up.

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 19, 2010, 06:14 PM

When you jump main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7, let me know if the fuel pump runs.

Hondaking · Mar 19, 2010, 06:18 PM

Ok I will performe those test early in the morning I really appreciate all your help and sticking with me on this thank you

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 19, 2010, 06:24 PM

You're welcome. Keep me posted.

Hondaking · Mar 20, 2010, 03:18 PM

So I read the entire link you gave me last night and went out to the car today and before I messed with the main relay I turned the key and heard the fuel pump I guesse cause it was a little noisy yesterday I couldn't hear it and then I went on to check to see if I had some type of spark and I took the plugs out and had someone crank the car and I finally got spark but not a good enough spark from my opinion and aa I went from the far right to the far left plug the sprak seemed weaker. That's as far as I could go today because its raining and kind of snowing today but could that mean the igniter is weak?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 20, 2010, 05:33 PM

More than likely it's a weak coil. Igniters are the equivalent of "electronic points" in older distributors. Under direction of the ECM they open and close the primary circuit in the coil. Since the coil is a "step-up" transformer, it induces much greater voltage in the secondary circuit of the coil, which allows the spark plugs to fire.

Hondaking · Mar 20, 2010, 05:42 PM

And that's why I'm not getting much spark also it explains itself cause I have changed everythin in the distributor even the distributor but the coil from the new one had been taken out so I put the old one in I haven't changed that at all

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 20, 2010, 05:47 PM

We should be getting very close. Many salvage yards sell the coils separately. I recommend replacing coils every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Hondaking · Mar 20, 2010, 05:53 PM

Well I'm very over both of those haha I called autozone for a new one and its 60 bucks but I'm going to call a salvage yard is there a certain part number on those coils or can I just get it from whatever honda distributor from the same year?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 20, 2010, 06:02 PM

Look at your present coil. See if you can pull a number off it.

Does your distributor have an internal or external coil? I presume external.