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Junior Member
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Mar 15, 2010, 06:52 PM
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Ok well I just tested all of them and they were all good but I also noticed a small problem the speedometer does not light up
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Uber Member
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Mar 15, 2010, 06:58 PM
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When dash lights don't work, it's often a tip off that there's a problem with the ignition switch. Power flows from the positive battery terminal to the under hood fuse box, to the ignition switch, to the under dash fuse box, to (in this case) the dash lights.
You may want to check/replace the ignition switch for wear, pitting or melting:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652
This is also one of the four reasons Check Engine Lights stay on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).
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Junior Member
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Mar 15, 2010, 07:10 PM
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Ok but my biggest question is would the car run if I switch the distributor
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Uber Member
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Mar 15, 2010, 07:34 PM
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I think there is a good chance that it will. I wanted you to easily rule out other possibilities first; e.g. fuses, ECM, and ignition switch. These tests don't cost anything, in many cases.
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Junior Member
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Mar 15, 2010, 08:32 PM
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I'm sorry I think I might have missed the ignition test how do u poerform that one just to make sure
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Junior Member
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Mar 15, 2010, 09:53 PM
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Well the car cranks so can I rule that out?
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Uber Member
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Mar 16, 2010, 05:51 AM
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You probably can, if you can hear the fuel pump run for two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?
Here's something else I would try. Either remove the 7.5A Backup Fuse in the under hood fuse box or the negative battery cable for 10 seconds. This will reset the ECM. Afterwards, turn the ignition switch to ON and see if the CEL now goes out.
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Junior Member
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Mar 16, 2010, 06:55 PM
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It still didn't go out but I'm assuming that its cause of the code ten(ait) but I have one more question when the car did crank it would studer could it be from the tdc sensor not making spark with the distributor shaft or would it be a vacumm leak because whe I last drove the car before it breaking down it had no vacumm leak
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Uber Member
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Mar 16, 2010, 07:01 PM
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I think the problem is that the distributor's internal sensors are bad. Until you install another distributor housing, hopefully a genuine Honda, I don't think the engine will start.
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Junior Member
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Mar 16, 2010, 07:34 PM
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What do you mean a genuin honda distrubutor do you mean a stock honda distributor?
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Uber Member
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Mar 16, 2010, 07:36 PM
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Yes, the distributor housing needs to be made by Honda, not AutoZone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, or anybody else. Some people get a complete genuine Honda distributor for around $55 at salvage. The just have to ensure they are getting the right part no. for their car. Try to get one, with low mileage, that was involved in an accident.
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Junior Member
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Mar 16, 2010, 07:45 PM
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How would I find out what part number is mine
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Uber Member
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Mar 16, 2010, 07:51 PM
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Look on your current distributor housing or call your local Honda dealer for the part no. for your year Civic and engine.
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Junior Member
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Mar 16, 2010, 08:45 PM
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Ok well I'm going to pick up the distributor this Thursday so Thursday I will let u know how it turns out
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Junior Member
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Mar 17, 2010, 07:09 PM
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Do u have a diagram or something to show me how the shifter is mounted to the links cause I made a custom shifter and put it back together wrong cause the shifter is very hard and won't go into gear
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Uber Member
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Mar 17, 2010, 07:16 PM
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Sorry, I don't.
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Junior Member
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Mar 18, 2010, 05:07 PM
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Could I put a distributor from a 91 honda civic sedean on my car?
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Uber Member
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Mar 18, 2010, 05:11 PM
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I don't know for sure. It depends on the engine. Since they are the same technology, there's a good chance it will work if the engine is the same. Get the part no. off the new distributor and call your local Honda parts dept.
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Junior Member
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Mar 18, 2010, 05:33 PM
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Ok and what do I let them know
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