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Oregon Hart · Feb 21, 2010, 10:49 PM

I have a 5HP B & S engine on a log splitter. Until this year it has run perfectly for 15 years. This year it won't stay running until it gets hot. It starts very easily but runs less than a minute (maybe as much as fuel in the carb from the pull start ?) I restart it 2-3 times before it will continue running on it's own. I've changed the spark plug & oil, checked the exhaust for blockage and run 3 tanks of fuel through the system since this started. There is no in-line fuel filter, just an in-tank material that looks like a full sponge. It doesn't look like the fuel tank can be easily removed and that filter replaced. Any suggestions? I can keep running it the way it is since eventually it does work but I also don't want to damage it. I'd just as soon determine what has changed and correct it. THANKS !
Jch

crigby · Feb 21, 2010, 11:10 PM

Hi,
Eemove the muffler to gain access to the diaphragm. That cover with the four screws covers it. Spring in first, then cup and then diaphragm.
Peace,
Clarke

Oregon Hart · Feb 22, 2010, 12:49 AM

Originally Posted by crigby

Hi,
Eemove the muffler to gain access to the diaphragm. That cover with the four screws covers it. Spring in first, then cup and then diaphragm.
Peace,
Clarke

Thanks Clarke but why am I doing this? What am I looking for? Am I replacing the diaphragm?
Jch

crigby · Feb 22, 2010, 06:01 AM

Hi,
Yes, that would be the common part to wear out on an engines you age. Two part #s exist that are 270026 and 272538S. The placement of the four screw holes is different, and I think the latter number can be used for either.
The pump material fatigues with age. It could wear, stiffen (most common) or the flapper valves stop sealing.
Peace,
Clarke

Oregon Hart · Feb 22, 2010, 12:35 PM

Originally Posted by crigby

Hi,
Yes, that would be the common part to wear out on an engines you age. Two part #s exist that are 270026 and 272538S. The placement of the four screw holes is different, and I think the latter number can be used for either.
The pump material fatigues with age. It could wear, stiffen (most common) or the flapper valves stop sealing.
Peace,
Clarke

Hmmmm OK. Despite HIS goodness, GOD didn't make all of us bright. Let me see if I understand what you are telling me. I'm removing the muffler ONLY to access the part of the carb with 4 screws. Right ? In my case it looks like those screws are accessible w/o touching the muffler (very close but not in the way). It is inside what looks like the back of the carb where I'll find the spring and valve. Is this correct ?
Jch

crigby · Feb 22, 2010, 12:54 PM

Hi,
Well, it depends on the muffler installed. Some give you access. Beneath that cover (in they order are to the cover) are the diaphragm, a cap that fits on the spring and the spring.
Peace,
Clarke

Oregon Hart · Feb 22, 2010, 01:21 PM

Great ! THANKS !
Jch

Oregon Hart · Feb 22, 2010, 06:31 PM

Clarke,

After splitting wood today I pulled the back off the carb and it appears there is a defect in one of the diaphragm flaps. I can see the cloth below the rubber covering. Do you sell the repair kit ? If so, I'll buy it from you. I pulled the following numbers off the pully face of the Briggs and Stratton engine. MDL 130212 TYPE 3190 01 CODE 90080107.

crigby · Feb 23, 2010, 07:26 AM

Hi,
I am not a dealer, and do not work for one at this time. Yoy will need the 270026 diaphragm since your engine was mad on August 01, 1990. That is in the Code you quoted.
I found Briggs as listing this as a dealer close by:
Zoll's Lawn & Garden Equipment

2764 W. Main Street
Medford, OR 97501
(541) 772-3762
Peace,
Clarke

Oregon Hart · Feb 23, 2010, 09:40 AM

Well Clarke you have been a true blessing. Thank you very much! Gary Zoll is a known quantity here (positive) and I'll call him right away. Thanks again. As soon as I figure out how to do "ratings" yours will all be superlatives from me!
Jch

Oregon Hart · Feb 26, 2010, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by crigby

Hi,
Well, it depends on the muffler installed. Some give you access. Beneath that cover (in they order are to the cover) are the diaphragm, a cap that fits on the spring and the spring.
Peace,
Clarke

Hey Clarke,

It's me again. The pest ! I replaced the diaphragm and nothing has changed. 2 things. First, I want to make sure I put the diaphragm in correctly. I put the depression (bulge) of the diaphragm toward the cover so that the cap of the spring fits into that depression. Is that correct ?

Secondly Gary Zoll the Briggs dealer suggested I might try opening the idle screw in case bad gas has clogged the passage ways. That too does seem to have helped but I thought I'd try the combination for a while and see if things improve over time.

What do you think ?
Jch

shindiawa · Feb 26, 2010, 01:30 PM

Spring cap diapham and cover,
If your talking about the air / fuel mixture screw .I would take it out spray wd40 in the hole run it back in .then turn it out 1 1/2 turns and adjust from there.

Oregon Hart · Feb 26, 2010, 02:55 PM

Originally Posted by shindiawa

Spring cap diapham and cover,
if your talking about the air / fuel mixture screw .I would take it out spray wd40 in the hole run it back in .then turn it out 1 1/2 turns and adjust from there.

THANKS ! I'll try that but what I was trying to first find out is which way does the diaphragm face. It has a cupped face that matches up to the carb but I'm not sure which way it fits. Which face goes toward the spring and which toward the back plate I took off to access the diaphragm?
Jch

crigby · Feb 27, 2010, 03:52 PM

Hi,
Suggest screwing in the idle screw in lightly and back out 1 1/2 turns. The diaphragm goes in one way because of its shape.
Peace,
Clarke