[davenje]

I have 2 '99 Accords, 1 is my blk Coupe w/the prob. The 4 door had done this only a couple of times back in summer, but seems to be fine last few months now. My Coupe, my baby, on other hand, has been sitting since late Summer '09 b/c I have gotten so frustrated with taking chances on it starting, getting stranded when I was pregnant in mid summer, ect, & taking it, when it would start, to get it checked it out! Noone can seem to tell me what could be wrong. My prob is what most of you are saying. Turns over, sounds as if gonna crank....then just cont to try to crank. I am afraid I will wear the starter out, so never cont to try to restart over 3-4times @ a time. Some local mech says may need fuel pump replaced, but said with the location the pump is in, will be expensive & no way to know for sure if will fix. It seemed to have started out in hottest part of summer, on hottest days. It would start fine on way to work, then on lunch, mid day, NON STARTING HONDA. Then in Fall, no problems most days. Also I should mention, we jumped it off with jumper cables when this prob 1st began, and after a lil charge, seems to have started, but this was w/good batt. It is now 20-40 degree's the high most days here in TN this Feb & it has not started the last 5 times we went out and tried this week, after it has prolly sit for a good 3 wks w/out trying. I wonder if anyone has actually found a fix that has lasted? From the posts above, noone has seemed to follow up after the Main relay soldering (not sure exactly what this is but will ask a tech about it), ect to say if anything has really lasted as a fix. I have went to Auto Zone, they put on machine & tested the alternater, is fine, bought new spark plugs & installed, used some gas treatment cleaner, seemed to have helped it run good for about 2 weeks. Also bought new batt & this batt has been tested over 100% good, twice. So, next steps are to just start pouring money into it w/taking chances. And Honda dealership is last place I want to hand out my months salery too, just for overly priced labor for the same job a few good Honda mech can do for 1/2 or less, with doing a better job! I hope someone here has a good answer as I am just about to put for sale & pretty much give it away, for anyone that wants & has the time it needs to mess w/it! I actually have a newborn now & just wanna sell the coupe, but can't really sell a car that will not start! Thank to all in advance!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Don't sell the car. I'll be glad to help you get it running again. The fix should be relatively simple.

On the 4-door sedan, you are likely experiencing classic Honda main relay failure, due to cold solder joints on the printed circuit board. Symptoms are usually the car starts in the cool of morning but won't start in the heat of the afternoon. Simply replace the main relay, which is located to the left of the steering column. Remove the old relay first, to obtain the brand and part number. I recommend replacing main relays every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Resoldering main relays is often not reliable. To do the job right, you need to desolder the joints (specialized tools) before resoldering them. Turning the ignition key on and off will help you locate the main relay, by allowing you to hear and feel it "click." Main relays often have 7 wires going to them. Record any radio codes and then disconnect the negative battery cable, before beginning work.

On the 2-door coupe, replacing the main relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), and coil should solve the problem, provided the Check Engine Light comes on and goes out after 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II) and you can hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

ICMs and coil are problematic components on Hondas. Over time, they break-down under load.

To save money, provide me the exact Model (DX, LX, or EX) and engine you have. I'll search for good prices for you, if you want. Otherwise, you can check your local salvage yard and auto parts stores.

Don't jump start your Honda. A voltage spike can easily damage the ECM, alternator, or sensors. It's best to remove and fully charge the battery, which AutoZone will do for free. I want you to know that I've never seen a bad fuel pump on a Honda. Replacements tend to take place when the mechanic really doesn't understand Honda fuel systems.

[davenje]

Hi. Thanks so much for the wonderful advice! It is a blessing to have you on this site! I had read some of your other replys last night after I posted as well. I went out to check if "provided the Check Engine Light comes on and goes out after 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II) and you can hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run" & I actually don't hear the fuel pump run when in the Position II. I know I used to hear something when flipped over to this position, but not now. Does this sound like a switch, etc before you crank? If so, its not making any sound. I did use some fuel cleaner & my step dad says that may have stopped up the fuel filter.. Do you think I need fuel filter now, plus the other suggestions for the coupe? Oh, BTW, it is a '99 Accord Coupe EX 4-cl. Can you also give me any suggestions on where to place a rope or chain to pull my car to mech? As it sits about 1 1/2 ft of ground with being prev owner has lowered it w/ground effects & 17" low profile tires on it.. tow truck guy said can't get on row back or even get a reg jack under it. Thanks so much for you help in this matter! Jenn

Don't sell the car. I'll be glad to help you get it running again. The fix should be relatively simple.

On the 4-door sedan, you are likely experiencing classic Honda main relay failure, due to cold solder joints on the printed circuit board. Symptoms are usually the car starts in the cool of morning but won't start in the heat of the afternoon. Simply replace the main relay, which is located to the left of the steering column. Remove the old relay first, to obtain the brand and part number. I recommend replacing main relays every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Resoldering main relays is often not reliable. To do the job right, you need to desolder the joints (specialized tools) before resoldering them. Turning the ignition key on and off will help you locate the main relay, by allowing you to hear and feel it "click." Main relays often have 7 wires going to them. Record any radio codes and then disconnect the negative battery cable, before beginning work.

On the 2-door coupe, replacing the main relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), and coil should solve the problem, provided the Check Engine Light comes on and goes out after 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II) and you can hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

ICMs and coil are problematic components on Hondas. Over time, they break-down under load.

To save money, provide me the exact Model (DX, LX, or EX) and engine you have. I'll search for good prices for you, if you want. Otherwise, you can check your local salvage yard and auto parts stores.

Don't jump start your Honda. A voltage spike can easily damage the ECM, alternator, or sensors. It's best to remove and fully charge the battery, which AutoZone will do for free. I want you to know that I've never seen a bad fuel pump on a Honda. Replacements tend to take place when the mechanic really doesn't understand Honda fuel systems.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Does the Check Engine Light come on and then go out, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?

I'm not sure what to suggest about towing your car. I thought you would work on it where it is.

[davenje]

Yes

[davenje]

Sorry, Yes, The check engine comes on w/the other electronics then goes off.

[davenje]

Step-dad says Im probably am not hearing the fuelpump because I've been cranking it. But I know I heard it 1st time I tried cranking or few times, until now.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Great. That means the ECM (computer), main relay, and system checks are working properly.

I want you to, once again, try turning the ignition switch to ON and listen for the fuel pump. Lower the driver's window or have someone else turn the key, while you open the gas cap and listen.

If you don't hear the fuel pump run, test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

[davenje]

Ok will do, Does it sound almost like a humming noise?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes. You'll hear it for 2 seconds and then it will stop.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Anything new to report?

How many miles are on the car?

[davenje]

Sorry. We left to eat out and forgot to check. Will check as soon as we return in few hrs. Its got 100k. Low miles for the year. Thanks again.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you can hear the fuel pump run, then it should not take much to get the car running again. Have a mechanic replace the ICM and coil. Alternatively, have him install a complete distributor, possibly from salvage. This will keep the cost down. Good luck.

[davenje]

Well my fiancé didn't listen to what I told him and got in it and started it, but it started 1st time in 3 weeks. So I drove around the block warming it up. Anyway,I turned off then turnback over to start position II and I hear fuel pump now I think, if its like a short wistle noise in rear end, then goes away..

[davenje]

Ok.Thanks a lot for all your help! Have a Wonderful day!