[frr12767]

I have similar problem: heater LED does not turn ON, tub does not heat even with setting to highest setting, pumps work - good flow, no error codes, tried tripping overpressure sensor switch with no change.


Is there a recommended way to check if the relays are bad? Can you also jump across them easily. I read no voltage at the Heater Element terminals.

[bfrizzo]

A friend of mine is having a similar problem to this. He has just replaced the heater on his and started it up. It does not heat. I have checked for voltage and it reads 240 at the terminals for the heater. My question is there anything between the terminals and the heater that can go out such as an overload or a fuse?

[Stratmando]

bfrizzo and frr12767,
If you have voltage to the Element and it doesn't heat, the element is open.
Amprobe can show current draw without any disconnection.

Jumping power directly may power the element, don't, If you had voltage to the element before, jumping won't help, and may burn out new element, many won't heat if there is no flow, valve(s) closed,
For a relay to work, it need power in from supply, and a power out to the heater(double for 2 pole/240), and will connect the input and the output if there is line voltage to the relay's coil, which gets it power from the control board and may be intterupted by door or other safetys.

[bertheji]

Hi all,

I have the same heating problem since yesterday: heat led is off and no heating. Took the voltage beetween pins 1 and 3 (heater) and I have 120 V. The heater is suppose to be a 240V heater. My control is a CS5000. I took the resitivity of the heater element and I can read 10 ohms... is this reading is correct for an element in good shape?

Thanks for your answers

Bertheji

[Stratmando]

Sounds like one of the legs is open, Follow the 240 volts in and to the heater.

[motojoshua]

Hello, I am having a similar problem. I have a 2005 calspas hot tub and it hasn't been heating correctly. Previously the heat light would only come on and heat if I had the high speed pump running. After reading many of these posts I found that I should adjust the pressure switch because it was not activating with the low speed pumps. That worked for a few minutes but I kept hearing a clicking sound in that area or possibly the circuit board. Now I cannot get the heat light to come on at all.

I have replaced the pressure switch, removed filter, and all valves are open. Circuit board?

Please HELP!

[CoachPK]

Sounds like there are many hot-tub owners with the same issue and I would like to add to it. Mine starting with bad bearings on 2 5hp GE Motors for my Cal Spa 2100 series spa built in 2002. Re-installed the pumps and in the process replaced both Vacuum Switches as they were brittle and the Pressure Switch on the Heater as well as the Hi-limit/thermometer. The hot-tub starts up and the heater kicks in but does not stay on. I did the Bleeding of the water to make sure I do not have and Air-lock and the water turns over very nicely. To ensure I did not have any water flow issues I even removed the filter.

What is my next step and how do I check the voltage to the heater from the board or control box?

I am about to replace the main control board. BTW: The previous owner informed after I started having issues that the safety vacuum switches went bad and he disconnected them to address a FL issue he had.

Thanks to anyone that can shed some light on this problem.

[kissel]

I had a heating element go bad ,replaced element 240/5.5k.stated tub back up but it only heats up to 75 degrees, checked voltage all OK