[TxGreaseMonkey]

After you remove the two screws holding the heat sink to the distributor housing, the heat sink-ICM assembly comes out.

[d16soda]

I don't quite understand step 6 in that guide. Id that referring to the plug part?

[d16soda]

After you remove the two screws holding the heat sink to the distributor housing, the heat sink-ICM assembly comes out.

Been trying to find a picture, bud can't find a good one that shows this specifically. Lol gimme a minute.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Step 6.

Yes, there's a "tower," where connectors from the distributor come together. The point is to figure out how the connectors come apart first. Don't just start prying on them or they may break. Remove them from the mount (tower) first and then they should just come apart.

[d16soda]

I'm trying to understand but I think you are losing me with the word tower. I'm trying to find a good picture, if you have one that'd be great! And thanks again for the help. We're making progress. My goal is to know this thing inside and out by the time Friday comes when I get paid. I need to be back on the road asap! :)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Towers are where two or more connectors are stacked together on a mount.

The important thing is that you may find all of this easier if you remove the distributor from the engine and place it on a desk and work on it. Many times, that's how I prefer to work on things. It allows you to do a perfect job.

When the distributor bearings failed on my Honda, I completely removed the distributor from the engine and carefully replaced the ICM and coil from the old distributor into the new Honda housing. It saves your back.

[d16soda]

Okay I'm going to go take it out now. Thanks!

[d16soda]

Okay, got it out of my car and on my desk. I'm trying to remove the two screws on the distributer housing connected to the heatsink and one of them are too badly stripped. :( I can fix that Friday but until then I want to buy all new screws and bolts for the distributor. How would I do this, autozone? Also, how do I reset the timing? I marked on the housing but that only gets it close, right? Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Your final exam this semester involves replacing the ICM in your distributor. You are only allowed 45 minutes.

Yes. If you marked it with a scribe, that should work just fine. You can place a timing light on it if you want, but it won't be really necessary. Honda might be the best place to get replacement screws or your local FASTENAL store.

[d16soda]

Haha yeah this has been a good little project.

I'm going to check on all this, but as for timing how precise does it have to be? Also, I've noticed that on my distributor cap the contacts inside are a tad corroded. Can I use coke on a swab to clean these? Or are they permanently damaged calling for a new distributor cap?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

How many miles are on your Civic?

If you accurately placed a straight scribe mark across the housing and bracket, you shouldn't need to use a timing light.

[d16soda]

150k

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Amazing. My distributor sounded like a thrashing machine at 95,000 miles. You should probably replace the distributor cap--I recommend BWD caps from O'Reilly Auto Parts. They have brass contacts inside, instead of aluminum, and come with a lifetime warranty--cheaper, too. Since you are short of money, however, there's no rush.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The corrosion is not like battery acid--it won't respond to Coke. Best thing to do is just replace the cap later.

Spray the new machine screws with WD-40, before you install them. It will help with any corrosion.

Did you get the heat sink out?

[d16soda]

Yeah this car purrs I love it, the body is gorgeous too besides my front fender from the wreck :(

But definitely will pick up the cap.

And I'm curious now since I've dealt with this problem. When I used to take off in 1st gear it would sputter, and even worse, when I took off in 2nd. It wasn't all the time, though. Was this a sign of my ICM going bad?o

[d16soda]

No I never got the heat sink out. I haven't gotten the ICM out of the housing. I stripped a screw and I am going to borrow my neighbor's dremel later to cut a notch so I can get it out. I see now how to do it now though so that's not a problem

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes, that was likely caused by the ICM breaking down. They are problem-prone parts. Look at all that have been replaced at AMHD--several a day. This is "bread and butter" business for most Honda dealerships--likely several a day.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Especially since you are a struggling college student, be sure to use SAE 5W-30 full-synthetic engine oil in your Civic. Change it every 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. This is to help you avoid the big unexpected repair bill. Here are some other tips that will save you a ton of money:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

It's all about playing good "defense" with your wallet.

[d16soda]

Lol OK, so after I fix this, I have one more payment on the car then I want to start doing preventative replacement on more of these "bread and butter" parts.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Start a Maintenance Log for your car--Date, Mileage, Work Performed. Keep it on Microsoft Word. It will save you time and money.