[supramax]

I'm an expert at resetting a pressure switch. :) The problem is that it won't go past 35 and without the magic marker being wedged in, the pressure drops in a hurry. Could this have something to do with the tank being waterlogged?

[jlisenbe]

"Could this have something to do with the tank being waterlogged?"
You can check out the waterlogged deal by simply pressing the air valve at the top. If the tank is completely waterlogged, water will come out the valve. Even if the bladder is ruptured, you can refill the tank with air at the valve and reverse the waterlogged condition. I had an old tank for a couple of years that I would just add air to every couple of months until I got around to replacing it.

A waterlogged tank will typically cause the pump to"short-cycle", meaning it will cut on for a few seconds, then off for a few seconds, and so on. However, this will only happen when water is being used. The reason is that there is so little air at the top of the tank that small amounts of water being added or drawn from the tank causes big pressure changes. I have never heard of a waterlogged tank causing a system to stay at a low pressure and not pump up to cut off point.

"The problem is that it won't go past 35 and without the magic marker being wedged in, the pressure drops in a hurry."
Question: When you don't have the magic marker fix going, and the system will not go above 35#, does the switch cut the pump off at 35# (breaker points separate) or does the pump just continue to run but not go above 35#? IF the switch is cutting the pump off at 35#, then the switch would seem to be the problem. If the pump will not pump above 35#, then the pump would seem to be the culprit, barring a leak in the well pipe somewhere.

[supramax]

jlisenbe,

Firstly, the repair people couldn't come on Friday, but they promise to arrive first thing Monday morning. They assured me that my magic marker fix wouldn't hurt the pump.

As to your question: The breaker points do NOT separate.


P. S. Thanks for the links.

[jlisenbe]

It will be interesting to find out. I wish you "well".

Please post the resolution of this problem.

[supramax]

I shall, my friend.

[supramax]

The holding tank was completely full of water and was clogged with iron deposits, as was the iron filter and salter. Fortunately, we had a spare tank in the basement that was better than the one being used. They were switched after the tank was drained and both filters have gone to the shop to be serviced. The pump itself will be checked after the ground thaws, because the water pressure is still at 35. It's a bloody good 35, though and the pump is under warranty.

[jlisenbe]

Glad to see its been resolved. It will still be interesting to see why it won't pump up over 35#.

[tommy67]

this worked great for me. Thanks! One quick note I counted the "turns" as full turns by 4- 1/4 turns = 1turn and three turns was too much over 70psi so I backed it down some. Mabye start with one full turn and go from there.

[speedball1]

First locate the pressure control box. This will be a small 1 1/2" by 2 1/12" gray box the pump wires connect to.
I'm going to assume that you have a "square D pumptrol and that it has a 20 PSI cut in and a 40 PSI cut off setting, First turnoff the power at the breaker box, then pull the cover off the pressure switch and you will see two spring loaded bolts secured with nylon nuts. One tall, one short. To increase the cut in pressure, turn the nut on the tall bolt down. To increase the cut out pressure,(that's the one that will give you more pressure) turn the nut on the short bolt down. This should give you the additional preesure you desire. Good luck, Tom

[bcspring01]

Thanks so much for the expert advice. I turned both bolts 3-4 times complete which gave me the pressure I needed but then I had a leak from an open? Fitting below the pressure gague (which is full of water) is that good.. bad?

[speedball1]

had a leak from an open? Fitting below the pressure gague (which is full of water) is that good.. bad?

If the gage is full of water, replace it, If it's something else please explain. Regards, Tom

[bcspring01]

OK. Immediately beow the gage on the left is an open pipe (see pics) that leaked when I turned up the pressure and stopped when I turned it back. Any ideas? I really appreciate your help!! Can I email you the pics?

[jlisenbe]

Could this "open pipe" be a pressure relief valve??

[bcspring01]

I think so... I stuck my finger in it and could push a plunger which caused more water to release.

[jlisenbe]

Look at it this way. You have what is probably a malfunctioning pressure gauge, so you really don't know what your pressure is. That is not good, and your pressure might be higher than you think. You can read it with a tire gauge at the top of the pressure tank. The PRV is set to release pressure at some point, for instance, 70#. So, in that case, if the pressure gets to 70, the valve will release some water.

60# at the top end should be plenty of pressure. If you are higher than that, then turn the large nut ONLY. Turn it counter clockwise a couple of turns, then cycle your pump. Keep at it until you get to 40/60. That should be plenty of pressure and keep the PRV from venting. However, if you want to go to 70# at the top end, then it might mean replacing the PRV.

[bcspring01]

Just checked it and my tire pressure gage only goes up to 50# and it pegged out pretty quick. Should I replace the pressure gage that's bad? If I shuf off power to the pump and drain my tank will that be enough to remove the gage w/o water going everywhere??

[jlisenbe]

Yes and Yes.

[bcspring01]

I'll try that. THANKS!!

[Handyman2007]

I have never seen anyone have any luck playing with the adjustment screws on a pressure switch. Replace it with a higher switch(40/60)recharge the pressure tank to 38 lbs and you should be all set.

[hkstroud]

Handyman
Why you bring up all these old post? This one 7 years old.