[weant]

I am looking for an alternative to discharging a front-loading washing machine into a laundry tub.
I have access to a pipe that slopes down to the septic pipe exiting the basement. This pipe is 5ft from the bottom of the washer. The manufacturer told me that the pump in the washer would only pump up 4 feet.
Apparently a sump pump will not work on the direct input from a washing machine.
Do you have any suggestions?

[speedball1]

To help I need more information.  This pipe that "slopes" down to the sewer main?   How would you access it?  Is it vertical or horizontal?  Is it trapped or open? City sewer or septic tank?  5' from the base of the hose outlet on the  washer or 5' from the floor?  What size and material is this pipe?  What brand and model is the washer?   How old? How high off the floor is the discharge hose located?  Please come back with more details,(all you have) and I'
Ll answer ASAP.  Regards  Tom

[weant]

Tom thanks for the reply
The pvc pipe (2") is a horizontal drain from the kitchen to the septic main.
The pipe can be cut and a wye can be installed.

Is it trapped or open? Not sure what you mean. The pipe goes directly into the septic main.

The pipe is 5' from the base of the hose outlet on the washer
What brand and model is the washer? The washer is a Maytag Neptune, 2 years old.
How high off the floor is the discharge hose located?
The washer dryer is on a 9 inch stand therfore the discharge hose is ~ 11 inches off the floor

[speedball1]

Hey! I really hate to rain on your parade :-/ but you can't just cut a wye into a sewer line and not attach a "P" trap to it. You would leave a opening direct from your sewer into your home allowing sewer gas to escape. Sewer gas is both harmful to your health and explosive. :o
Your plan to discharge into a overhead pipe just isn't going to fly :(
However I may have a solution that will work and still stay in code :D
Cut a drainage tee into the stubout of the laundry tray ahead of the trap and run a drain line out next to the wall, attach a "P" trap to the drain line and run a vertical stand pipe up a few inches over the flood rim of your washer. Secure the stand pipe to the wall with a pipe strap or band iron.
You may now hook your discharge hose over the stand pipe and be safe and legal. ;D
Good luck, Tom

[weant]

Tom Can you clarify your first sentence
Cut a drainage tee into the stubout of the laundry tray ahead of the trap.

I'm not surewhat a sutbout is and what to your mean by a laundry tray?

[speedball1]

No problem,
Laundry tray= laundry tub and the stubout is the pipe that comes out of the wall that connects to the trap.
How far away from the laundry tub do you wish to move the washer? Any 90 degree turns? If you discharge into the stubout you will cut in a drainage tee close to the wall ahead of the laundry tub trap. You will then secure the drain line to the wall giving it 1/4" to the foot slope/fall. Cement a "P" trap on the drain line and then cement in a vertical stand pipe that is a tad higher then the machine. Secure the stand pipe to the wall with a pipe strap or band iron, hook in your discharge hose and you're in business.
Cheers, Tom

[weant]

Tom
I really appreciate all the effort that you put into my problem.

There is more information to this problem.

The existing configuration is that the washer discharges into the laundry tub.
Which is attached to a pressure activated pump at the drain of the tub.
This pump, pumps the water (1” pvc) up about six feet to the p-trap and then into a 2” pvc pipe that goes to the septic main (that is 3+ feet off the floor).

I am moving the Washer ~ 6 feet away from the laundry tub.

In the new position for the washer there is another 2” drainpipe at ~ 5ft off the floor.
I was hoping to install a wye and p-trap etc into this drainpipe. However, Maytag said that the washer will only pump a 4 foot vertical. Which leaves me a little short.

As part of the remodeling I was eliminating the laundry tub and replacing it with an old kitchen sink. Which doesn't lend itself to a hose hanging on to the edge and the washer is now 6 foot away.
So I was trying to come up with a solution for discharging the washer without using a laundry tub. I spoke to a couple of sump pump manufactures and they both said that their unit cannot handle the direct discharge of the washer.

Paul

[speedball1]

First off I see numbers that I'm not familiar with. (18&#8221, &#8217, 2&#8221) can you please explain? Are these lengths and types of PVC? Not really all that important.
I still say put a check valve on the washer discharge hose if the new sink stubout's higher then the washer hose outlet. Install a dishwasher branch fitting in place of the pipe from the bottom of the sink drain to the trap and discharge into that like we discharge a dishwasher. That would get you away from cutting in a overhead line and fretting about how to lift it up. The sink trap would trap both fixtures and the pressure activated pump at the drain of the sink would lift the discharge from both fixtures up into the sewer. Sound OK to you? Tom

[sreardon]

What type of kitchen counter would you recommend installing?

[speedball1]

what type of kitchen counter would you reccomend installing??

Any old counter will do. I'm more interested in getting the washer drained. If you would install a branch tailpiece,(see image) on the sink drain this would give you a trap and a vent. The only draw back is that the washer discharge hose size would be choked down to a dishwasher hose size. I'm breaking new ground here so I don't know just what the overall effect would be pressure wise. But if it works it would be the easiest way for you to go. Regards, Tom