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    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #1

    Nov 28, 2009, 04:14 PM
    Split Cast Iron Vent Stack
    Tom, Mark, Milo, Anyone,

    What, other than age, would cause a 3" CI stack/vent to split longitudinally? About a 12" crack in a 4' section of pipe, about 12" from one end?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #2

    Nov 28, 2009, 05:18 PM
    Hi Harold...

    You basically said it... age.

    Here, as it was explained to me, in the past, cast iron was spun to get the pipe to form and that spinning process wan't perfected for the longest time. It lead to tons and tons of pipes having a thicker side and a thinner side. You can image, that over time with imperfections in the casting and axial loading and such the pipes have been found to break down longitudinally along the thinner side, much like you are describing.

    They have since pretty much perfected the spinning technique for a more uniform wall thickness, but they still have issues with imperfections and such producing holes in pipes (mostly China cast iron).

    I figure you know what to do to replace the defective cast iron. Just don't forget to unload the weight of the stack using a hanger or 2"x4"s before making any cuts. Short of replacing the entire stack, cut one foot above and one foot below the longitudianl crack... should work out fine for many years!


    Have a great one.

    MARK
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #3

    Nov 28, 2009, 07:37 PM

    Thanks Mark, hopefully this won't be mine.

    Background is I had the task of removing a built in bookcase in preparation for the basement water proffers. I go over this morning, "How was your Thanksgiving?"

    "Not to good, the toilet upstairs (2nd floor) is leaking water in the basement", says she.

    Plumber came in yesterday and wanted to tear out the ceiling in the basement until she pointed out that the first floor toilet doesn't leak. All the pipe for first floor toilet below the ceiling. "Wouldn't it be between the first and second floor?"

    Right says plumber. He cuts a hole in first floor bath above tile. Tile is old set in concrete tile. So now he knows leak is between top of tile and basement. Can't see where because of lavey vent pipe.
    I guess she wouldn't let him knock out tile until I said I could repair.
    Other side of wall is kitchen and a built in double oven.

    So I commit to repairing tile. Not something I wanted to do.

    While I am removing book case I'm thinking about that built in double oven. I go up and find that removing 6 small screws and the oven slides out.

    I open the wall and find the split pipe. Great, no tile work.

    While I'm doing that, she says that the plumber was complaining about the boss taking on these fixed price jobs. Job must be on hourly basis. Of course, my prospective is "If you don't like your work, get another job". He tells her that if he has to pull the toilet, which he certainly would have had to do if I had not remove the oven, it would be another $320.

    Makes me think she is being set up to be ripped a little. I don't particularly want the job because of cutting out the cast.

    Its about 4' from the hub of the lavey vent to the hub for the toilet. Lavey vent hub quite accessible, top of hub for toilet is up in basement ceiling.

    Just in case, what's the possibility of just breaking out the pipe at the split with hammer and chisel . I have never been able to find those diamond sawsall blades you have referred to. If the cast were cut between the hubs and replace with PVC, what's the possibility of the remaining cast pipe splitting?

    Thanks
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #4

    Nov 29, 2009, 05:42 AM
    Hi Harold...

    With a split pipe you can forget about the hammer and chisel... that will only act to extend the break.

    In terms of the cracked pipe, you can use the 8" bimetal sawzall blades... these don't work as nice as the diamond sawzall blades, but they do work better than the carbide tipped blades. Worst case, for 2 cuts, you'll need a few blades.

    Now, the crack and it continuing... well, won't know the answer to that until you cut into the pipe. Once you make the cut and remove the piece you should be able to tell the chances of future issues. Start the job by telling the customer that you don't know exactly how bad the pipe is... see how you do after cutting out the cracked section of pipe. Then show her the pipe and you guys can decide how much more, if any, is needed to remove. As long as you let them know up front it will be hard for them to complain later.

    Let me know if you want to discuss more.

    PS: If you private message me your address (I lost it when we packed up and tried to sell the condo.) I'll be glad to send you a couple diamond blades.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #5

    Nov 29, 2009, 05:54 AM

    Thanks Mark

    Hopefully I won't, get this one, I'm already over committed and got a long list of Honey Do's. Maybe plumber will be reasonable. Maybe I can get one honey do off the list today.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #6

    Nov 29, 2009, 06:02 AM
    I understand, especially if busy! Let me know if you do get it though.. discuss a bit more. Don't forget to PM me that address... send those blades out... JUST IN CASE you do get the job... :)

    MARK

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