[medic-dan]

That's good. It's not likely to be a mechanical problem making the chirp then. Sometimes they can make a noise "breathing." I have one that "whoops."

If you want you can check for spark now. It should be very easy to spin. I do think you have a spark since you say it backfired once.

That ridge at the top of the cylinder is normal.

Put the head back on. If you can, torque the head bolts to 190 inch pounds. Otherwise snug but don't lay on them.

It is very likely a carb problem. They're pretty common on a generator as they tend to sit with fuel in them then it gums up. That engine should have a float type carb. You'll see a float bowl under the carb.

How's the fuel? Is it clean? Disconnect the fuel line from the tank and make sure what comes out is clean and fresh. If it smells like bad (stale) gas, get rid of it.

When you're ready we can look at the carb.

[Jennings3]

It sparked pretty good, even with the oil sensor connected.

A one inch piece of the gasket came off when head pulled; guess the whole gasket needs replacing, no?

The fuel was old. I drained the tank, rinsed with gas and then again with a little bit of acetone. Tank still mounted to the frame, so I rocked the generator a bit to swish.

Sprayed the carb with carb cleaner. Added fresh gas and it started leaking and dripped from the bottom of the carb bowl.

[medic-dan]

You'll need to replace that gasket then. It shouldn't be that expensive. Take the old one with you and the engine model/serial number. Clean off any of the old gasket before putting the new one on. Don't scratch the mating surface.

At least we know you have a good spark.

I'd take the carb off and clean it thoroughly. If you go this route take pictures of ALL the linkages before you do. There's nothing worse than not remembering how to put them back on.

It might be easier to just pull the float bowl and clean it out. Carefully remove the nut on the bottom of the float bowl with a wrench. You shouldn't have to turn the needle valve (if it's adjustable). Make sure the float moves freely, be gentle with it. Fuel should come out when the float is down. Be careful lifting it. There's a tab on the float that can bend.

If you feel really ambitious there is also a jet (nozzle) that you should clean. If you look "up" into where the needle valve assembly you should see it. You can remove it with a flat head screwdriver. Clean it out with some carb cleaner and spray into the opening where it came out of.

When you get done reassemble it.

Give it a try.

[Jennings3]

These carb mounting studs have some sort of hex head. They look just a torx wrench on the end. Must I find a hex socket, better not jump on it with vice grips?

[medic-dan]

Find the right tool. It makes it much easier to do the job correctly.

Remember to take pictures. The governor linkage especially on a generator is VERY critical to the proper operation.

I usually disassemble the carb on a "baking sheet." That way any parts don't go very far.

Take your time getting it off. If you can soak the carb in parts cleaner great. If not, even hot water and soap won't hurt. Compressed air to blow out all the orifices is great too. Then make sure you have clean fuel (I know you did the tank) all the way throughout the fuel line, no junk, before you put it back together.

Good luck.

[crigby]

Ji
T-30 Torx will do it, I think(if I remember right.)
Peace,
Clarke

[Jennings3]

It seems that the condition of the generator end is important and the rings and pistons. Before going too far, how can I determine if this machine is salvageable? Many thanks--

[medic-dan]

So far, from what you said, the engine is in good shape. You said the bore was clean, a bit of a ridge is normal. If there were no big scratches on the cylinder it should fire. Can't say about using oil, until you get it running.

It's the same with the generator section. You could check all the wiring, etc, but really can't do much without it running to tell what will happen. Sometimes, if they sit for a while, they can lose "residual" magnetism and won't make power - at first. There are some tricks to get past that and get it making power again.

So far, except for that gasket and some carb cleaner you likely aren't investing that much.

[Jennings3]

The carbon on the cylinder top comes off with gentle scrape of putty knife. What about removing that and the carbon on the valves?

[medic-dan]

Go for it. There's no problem cleaning it up.

It sounds like it had been running in good condition. Some carbon buildup is normal.

[Jennings3]

Do the fuel lines need to be cleaned? Just spray cleaner into them?

How best deal with that little fuel pump? Is it okay to spray cleaner into it?

Thanks--

[medic-dan]

You can spray cleaner in them or run some gas through them. Whatever is easier.

What fuel pump? Describe it or if you can, post a picture. Usually they are "gravity" fed from the tank to the float bowl.

I can't find your generator to look up. Do you have a better model number?

[Jennings3]

That's the model number in the link to the parts diagram pdf: 197417-1143-E1. It is beside the carb attached to the engine: http://www.briggsandstratton.com/sup...197417-1143-E1

[medic-dan]

Yup, you have a fuel pump. It may have failed.

Briggs tells you how to "service" it. Here: http://http://www.briggsandstratton....20fuel%20pump/

[Jennings3]

That is a really good resource, many thanks. I cleaned the fuel pump as directed, quite gummy.

Local dealer did not have the carb gasket so I ordered it on line.

Well, the fuel line that runs close to the exhaust is cracked pretty good. I got some cut to order.

The inner diameter is the same but new one is not as thick as the old (will get smaller clamps).

Is it okay to use the fuel line with thinner walls close to the exhaust?

[medic-dan]

Glad the link helped you out.

I'd keep it as far from the exhaust as you can but there isn't much else you can do. Yeah, the clamps they use won't fit "generic" tubing.

[Jennings3]

The oil is 4 years old but the engine has never been started. Does it make sense to crank it (if it will start), let it warm, then change the oil or should I change the oil before turning it over?

What about lubing the cylinder before attempting to crank? Should a little oil be put in there since it was cleaned with carb cleaner and is dry of lubricant?

Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the carb gasket AND the air cleaner gasket on the Briggs/Stratton Engine 197417-1143-E1 Code: 990506YD (8 HP generator engine)?

It does not seem to be available on line.

Much thanks--

[medic-dan]

It wouldn't hurt to put say a teaspoon of oil down the spark plug hole then pull the engine through a few times, plug out, to distribute the oil. Then put it back together.

If the oil is clean, you could fire it up then change it. It will be much easier to change when warm. I don't think a short run with clean, old, oil will hurt it.

I don't have those specs in my Chiltons book. I'd just tighten them until snug, don't crank on them.

[Jennings3]

With that news I'll put her together this afternoon and give the old gal a yank (actually there's an electric starter).

[Jennings3]

She ran for about a minute then stopped. Fuel is leaking out of the mouth of the carb. What might be the cause of that?