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    Peter76's Avatar
    Peter76 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Aug 13, 2009, 12:20 PM
    How to get a 2" galvanized steel pipe out of a stubborn cast iron fitting?
    Here is my current situation:

    I am ripping out the old galvanized steel piping and will replace it with PVC, since I have the walls open for the bathroom remodel, which I am working on. I got everything already out with the exception of one little piece of galvanized steel pipe left.

    The galvanized steel pipe is a 2" drain pipe leading into the cast iron main stack (4"). The piece that doesn't come out it sitting in a Y fitting. It's sealed with lead. I first just tried to twist it out by using a 24" pipe wrench. That didn't work. Then I tried to chisel out some of the lead and then wanted to wrench it out. I even used a 4' pipe for more leverage on my wrench, but all it does is - nothing. The pipe doesn't move at all. I also tried to just bang it with a hammer to losen the lead, but that didn't get me any further. I think that the people installing it initially either screwed up the threads or it's just so corroded that it's "welded" together.

    Now my question is if there is any other way that I can get this pipe out of the fitting other than cutting out the whole cast iron fitting and replacing it with a PVC fitting.

    I already thought of just leaving it in and nohub it with the new PVC pipe, but that doesn't work, since I won't get the required slope for the drain (unfortunately, no one cared about codes back in the 50s and that's when the old pipe was put in). Since the piece of pipe is sticking out about 6 inches from the fitting, I also don't think I can just cut it off shorter to try to get the slope and then nohub it.

    I do really prefer to get it out of the fitting and then completely replace it with PVC. Any suggestions are very much appreciated.
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
    Plumbing Expert
     
    #2

    Aug 13, 2009, 12:32 PM
    Hi there Peter:
    I assume it is threaded: You have to use as big pipe wrench as possible for leverage. Like 36" long. You can rent it from Home Depot for few bucks. However, that doesn't guarantee you will be able to remove it. The pipe is probably well rusted in after so many years.

    We usually don't try to remove it. We cut it short and use Fernco shielded coupling as a transition between gal. pipe and new PVC. But I understand you do not want to use this method...

    Since the wrench option will probably fail I would do the following:

    1. Cut of the old gal. pipe as close to the C.I. threaded female hub as possible.
    2. Remove blade from hack-saw. ( the finest # of teeth on the blade, the better )
    3. cut the remaining pipe threads, still inserted inside the fitting, with this blade. You do it by hand. Do it easily so you dong damage the female threads too much. Cut in several places. Than take skinny flat screwdriver, insert it between the Female and Male threads and tap it with hammer. You will poke it out. Once you get one section out, the rest of the treads will go easy

    If you are experienced with using tools, you can use sawzall to cut the treads on the inside of the pipe. . It makes the job lot faster and easier. But of course, you have to be very careful so you don't damage female thread while cutting...
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #3

    Aug 13, 2009, 12:53 PM
    The galvanized steel pipe is a 2" drain pipe leading into the cast iron main stack (4"). The piece that doesn't come out it sitting in a Y fitting. It's sealed with lead.
    You have just ddescribed a lead and oakum poured and caulked joint and all the twisting and turning in the world isn't going to break it lose. To remove a poured lead and oakum joint take a 3/8" drill bit and drill a few holes down past the lead and into the oakum.. Push a screwdriver under the lead ring and lever it up. Once it's free you can began to peel the lead ring out. Now pick out the oakum and you can pull the joint apart. Good luck, Tom
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #4

    Aug 13, 2009, 01:20 PM

    I agree with Tom: if there is lead in the hub, than pipe is not threaded in. There would not be room for lead if it was threaded. Do as Tom said...
    Peter76's Avatar
    Peter76 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Aug 14, 2009, 05:53 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1 View Post
    You have just ddescribed a lead and oakum poured and caulked joint and all the twisting and turning in the world isn't gonna break it lose. To remove a poured lead and oakum joint take a 3/8" drill bit and drill a few holes down past the lead and into the oakum.. Push a screwdriver under the lead ring and lever it up. Once it's free you can began to peel the lead ring out. Now pick out the oakum and you can pull the joint apart. good luck, Tom

    Thanks Tom. That was actually working fine. I should probably not listen to my friends anymore that claim they know what they're doing and suggested to me I can just wiggle it out or wrench it out. The stubborn pipe is gone and I can start putting back new pipes. Thanks again!
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #6

    Aug 14, 2009, 06:05 AM
    You're most welcome. Let us know if you have more questions. Tom
    nimster64's Avatar
    nimster64 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Mar 29, 2013, 07:46 AM
    I have the same problem but now how do I convert the Cast iron to pvc?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #8

    Mar 29, 2013, 10:28 AM
    I have the same problem
    Are you saying you have a galvanized nipple coming out of a cast iron fitting you can't remove?
    now how do I convert the Cast iron to pvc?
    Do you wish to convert the entire drainage system or simply one fitting? Please explain, in detail, what you wish to do. Back to you. Tom
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #9

    Mar 29, 2013, 04:48 PM
    Nimster64

    If I follow you...

    You can install a PVC manhoff fitting... needs to be leaded and caulked in (not for homeowner), or you could purchase an appropriate COMPRESSION DONUT at a local plumbing supply store.

    If you plan on the compression donut, look at the hub of the cast iron fitting and see if you can find an SV or an XH in raised letters. This SV (service weieght cast iron) or XH (extra heavy cast iron) and the pipe size as well as the pipe size PVC you want to start with determines how you order these things. Check out this link for an example @ 2 in. Service Weight Cast Iron x 1-1/2 in. Sch. 40 PVC Compression | FindNSave

    You'll need SOAP , and a piece of wood and a large hammer to get the donut and the PVC pipe into the fitting! Discuss this more with the people you purchase the donut from!

    If you have difficulty getting the PVC into the donut (after the donut is inserted into the cast iron), you can always make a JIG as seen in the picture below (courtesy of www.terrylove.com):



    Good luck!

    Mark
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    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
    Plumbing Expert
     
    #10

    Mar 29, 2013, 06:26 PM
    You guys make it way too complicated: Use Fernco / Flex Seal coupling with ends to fit each pipe. Takes 2 minutes to install and costs under $20.00.

    Milo
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #11

    Mar 29, 2013, 07:01 PM
    Actually. Terry Love is from Cali... *smirk*!

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