[badlands23]

OK. Another picture. From straight on top.

[ballengerb1]

I just saw you new picture and have not seen this set up. The brass chain is what lifts the flapper and you have way too much slack in it. The chain should relinked so there is a samll amount of slack only.

[mygirlsdad77]

I love fluidmaster products, but I have to say, this is not one of their better designs. First thing I would do, is get rid of the extra link that goes to fill valve. Then tighten link between flush handle and flapper(as Bob suggested), then replace flapper with universal korky flapper. I also notice in your pic that the water level is way below the overflow tube. Adjust the water level up to roughly 1/2 inch below top of overflow. Once you have done this, just manually pull the flapper up and hold it up and see how your toilet flushes then.. Let us know. Lee.

[badlands23]

Mygirlsdad, do you mean the black chain?

According to the instructions, that is for the safety feature to prevent any leakage problems.

I will tighten up the link to the flapper and post a new picture.

I will see if I can adjust the water. I thought it was only 1/2 inch below top of overflow.

I will do all those things and post new pictures later.

Thanks for all your help.


How do I allow more water into the tank? I can't seem to figure that out.

The water fill valve won't turn to allow more in.

I adjusted the chain and will post picture.

Should I cut the overflow valve down more?

[speedball1]

I don't know guys! If were my call I'd junk his present set up and install a regular tank installation, see image). No wonder he has a problem!! Regaqrds, Tom

[badlands23]

Unfortunately, Lowe's and home depot only sell fluidmaster complete sets. Korky might have products, but I didn't see a complete set.

How do I increase the amount of water in the tank?


OK. I shortened the flapper chain.

I removed the black chain that acted as a safety feature.

For the record, the water in the tank is right at the water line in the tank.

I'm not sure this is helping.

This latest picture will show all of the things I corrected.

Any suggestions?

[ballengerb1]

That flapper is an adjustable one, where do you have it set? This looks like it should, how well does it flush?

[mygirlsdad77]

Im with Tom on this one. It also looks to me like the water level is two low. I can see the stains of the old water level, but it looks like the new water level is way below that. How much shorter is the new overflow tube than the old one? And don't cut down the new overflow tube, as this will just compound your problem. How old is the toilet? If its older than 1992, then it not a water conserving toilet, and water conserving parts will not work with this toilet. I really think Tom has the best solution. One other thought... standard toilets are actaully quite cheap. You can get them for around 80 to 100 bucks.

Im not familiar with the adustable flappers, but I do know that the water level has to be up there pretty high in old 3 gallon per flush toilets.

Since you have a fluidmaster fill valve, you should have a set of instructions for adjusting water level. You see the philips style screw adjustment on the fill valve float arm? Turn it clockwise to raise water level, but you can only adjust it so much, if you can't get enough adjustment out of it, then you will have to shut water off to toilet, then pull up on the ring under the float, then pull the whole assembly up(you will feel it go click by click). Take it up one click at a time, then push holding ring back down until it snaps back in place, turn water on and make fine adustments with philips head adjuster. If you are not interested in gettinga new toilet, then you will need to raise the water level, either adjust or replace the flapper valve with a universal flapper(perferably one with out the foam float) and hope it works. Good luck and please keep us posted.

[speedball1]

Let's get that tank level up where I belongs.
There are two clips that secure the float can to the wire.
These are the adjustments that control how high the water raises in the tank before it shuts off. Squeezing the clips and lowering the float can will drop the water level in the tank. The lower you set the can the lower the level in your tank. By the same token raising the float can will also raise the tank level.
Now, go to a -plumbing or hardware store a pick up a reguar flapper and toss that piece of crap in your tank out.
Here's how to adjust your new flapper.
With the flapper seated the linkage wants to have 1/4" of play. Too much play and the flapper doesn't get pulled back enough giving you a short flush. Too tight and it lets water seep past the flapper. I adjust the chain by the link and if it needs fine tuning, I bend the flush lever rod a bit until I have the desired play in the linkage. One more thing about a flapper. you will see where the old flapper hooks onto the base of the white overflow tube. On a older type with no hooks the flapper has a ring that slips down over the overflow tube to the seat. If your tank has hooks, take a sharp knife or scissors and cut the ring off on the marks provided and hook the flapper on the hooks. Leaving the ring on will interfere with the flush. The water level in your tank should be 3/8 to 1/2" below the top of the overflow tube when the tank's filled. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply. Tom

[badlands23]

To answer some of your questions, I have the adjustable flapper set at 9, for a max flush.

I will try to adjust the fill valve. The water is right at the water line as marked by the tank.

I have no idea how old the toilet is. Probably older than 1992.

Where can I get a new set up similar to the one Tom posted a picture of?

"There are two clips that secure the float can to the wire.
These are the adjustments that control how high the water raises in the tank before it shuts off. Squeezing the clips and lowering the float can will drop the water level in the tank. The lower you set the can the lower the level in your tank. By the same token raising the float can will also raise the tank level. "

I don't have two clips that adjust the float. I have an arm that uses a philips head screwdriver to raise or lower it.

Tom -the flapper came attached to the overflow tube. There was no additional ring for me to cut off.

I will try all of your suggestions and post with results.

Thanks.

[badlands23]

I was online reading about the korky products.

Should I scrap the fluidmaster products that I installed and just go with a whole new korky system?

[ballengerb1]

You already own a system nearly identical to the one Tom posted. I think the hardware is fine, installed this month, but not properly adjusted.

[speedball1]

i was online reading about the korky products.

should i scrap the fluidmaster products that i installed and just go with a whole new korky system?

I don't agree with Bob that your system is the same as the one I put up.(see image).
I looked at Korkys System video. Haven't you had enough of these "Gee Whizz" systems? Ya want to put in another one?
If this were in my home I'd take the tank off and strip it. I would then install a regular float type ballcock and a standard flushvalve and flapper, (see images) You get it installed and l'll walk you through adjusting and fine tuning it. Let me get you out of this "Toilet Twilight Zone" that you got yourself into. Good luck, tom

[ballengerb1]

I may have misunderstood but I think you and Tom both posted Fluidmaster fill valves. The floats may in fact be different. I think you said that you had an adjustable Fluidmaster flapper and I have had very little trouble with them. I ask a few posts ago how it flushed now with the proper water level, did you answer?

[speedball1]

Nine posts ago I recommended replacing his tank parts and I haven't changed my mind. I tend to go with works the best. But if you think you can get him back in business more power to you. Regards, Tom

[mygirlsdad77]

Your fluidmaster fill valve is just fine, good product. The overflow assembly is also just fine, other than the flapper itself. The only korky product I would use here would be the flapper(but korky is just a brand of flappers we use, it about the same as any universal flapper). IF water level is as high as it used to be, the only thing that is causing the problem is the flapper not staying up long enough to give a good flush.(or is it flushing good? As Bob already asked.). And ill ask again,, if you hold the flapper up by hand, how does the toilet flush? If not very good(and water level is high enough) then you may have other issues with the toilet. Plugged rim holes, or jet hole will cause a toilet to not flush properly. Try taking a five gallon bucket of water and dumping it into the bowl(not tank) of the toilet and see if it causes the toilet to flush properly.(only dump about half of the five gallon bucket at a time). Also, have you given any consideration to a shiny new toilet??

[badlands23]

If you notice in the picture, you can see the old water line, which was above the water line as indicated by the tank.

I have not been able to get the water to get that high again. I am still playing with the fill valve in hopes of increasing the water to the old height. Once I do that, I might be able to get it to flush correctly.

When I hold the flapper open, the toilet completely flushes, which is a product of all of the water leaving the tank (I think).

I don't mind going to the "old school" parts (which is what I had in the tank). If I can't adjust the water fill valve and adjust the water level in the tank, I will go old school and gladly have tom walk me through it.

I plan on working on it today. I will keep you all posted.

Thanks for your help and patience.

[mygirlsdad77]

There is another ajustment on the fill valve other than the philips screw adjustment. If you look below the black float, on the rod that comes from the bottom of the tank, you will see a plastic ring. If you turn the water off to the toilet and pull up on this ring, then you can pull up on the whole assembly, this will raise the whole assembly float and all, take it up a couple of clicks then push the ring back down. After this, turn water back on to toilet and make fine adjustments with the screw adjuster. With water off and ring pulled up, you can actually pull the whole top assembly off if you want to. Please let me know if you find what I'm talking about, I promise you it's there, you just have to find it and pull on it. Lee.

[badlands23]

Yes! Success. I was able to raise fhe fill valve, which helped to raise the water level to the stained level in the tank.

That helped force enough water down and kept the flapper open for a good flush.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this will work and it wasn't my imagination.

Thanks to all who posted for your suggestions and patience.

[speedball1]

At last! Congratulations! Let's hope it remains. Ya hung in there until you got it working. Good job! Tom