Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #61

    Jul 14, 2010, 03:22 AM

    I would suggest that you simply increase the size of the vent to 2.5" if you can find it. If not, 3" pipe on the horizontal will work just fine as well. Be sure to pitch the vent at about 1/4" to the foot back toward the drain.

    Finally, you could combine the vents and use a 2" AAV... if they are allowed in your area! The AAV must be "readily accessible" for change out in the future should the AAV fail.

    Mark
    adkhkr's Avatar
    adkhkr Posts: 64, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #62

    Jul 14, 2010, 03:56 AM

    Are you better off going with a regular vent? Should AAVs be avoided if possible? This horizontal vent pipe will be installed in a 2x4 wall so the smaller the pipe the better. Will a 2.5" pipe fit in a 2x4 OK?

    I suppose I could go straight up and put in another vent through the roof for these fixtures only. I am going to be opening up the wall on the first floor for a window anyway.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #63

    Jul 14, 2010, 09:27 AM

    Regular vents are always best... no mechanical parts to fail!

    If you can even find 2.5" pipe/fittings then a 2.5" pipe would just barely fit inside a 2"x4" wall and wouldn't leave much wood behind.

    Most likely you'll need to pipe this up 3" and in that case fir the studs out 1.5" using 1.5" studs or maybe that vent straight up and through the roof will put this all to rest for you... :)

    Back to you...


    Mark
    adkhkr's Avatar
    adkhkr Posts: 64, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #64

    Jul 17, 2010, 07:02 AM

    Going the route of a regular vent through the roof. Should I use 2" PVC for the whole vent, including through the roof?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #65

    Jul 17, 2010, 07:12 AM

    2" all the way and through the roof 18"-24" if you have snowy winters or 6"-12" through the roof if you are from sunny areas like Florida or California... ;)

    Mark
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #66

    Jul 17, 2010, 07:14 AM

    I was thinking of putting the PVC under the footing in a cast iron/steel sleeve, what do you think about this? I can't see how this method could be rejected because its seems like a good solution, at least to me.
    NOT NECESSARY!
    Most of the big box guys aren't plumbers. Yours was assuming you were going THROUGH the foundation. But you're not are you? You're going UNDER it.
    Run PVC all the way with no cast iron sleeve. Good luck, Tom
    adkhkr's Avatar
    adkhkr Posts: 64, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #67

    Jul 18, 2010, 09:10 AM

    When I run the 2" vent pipe, is it OK to use the short radius 90s? Is there a limit to how many 90s I can use when installing the vent pipe?

    There are a few tight 90s I need to install to get it up the wall.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #68

    Jul 18, 2010, 09:37 AM

    Use 2" regular 90s where needed.

    In terms of limiting the number of elbows you are definitely looking to use the fewest elbows possible.

    If needed, they also sell short pattern vent 90s... ;)

    Mark
    adkhkr's Avatar
    adkhkr Posts: 64, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #69

    Jul 18, 2010, 09:54 AM

    Here is a quick and dirty sketch of what I am intending on doing... does this look good or would you vent it differently?

    The arrow indicates where it will penetrate the floor and go into the 1st floor wall. The pipe in the wall can be arranged any way.
    Attached Images
     
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #70

    Jul 18, 2010, 10:38 AM

    Here's how I'd do it... ;)

    As always, pitch the vent as previously mentioned and connect the horizontal vents together at 42-48" off finish floor.

    Mark
    Attached Images
     

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Can you Install a house trap yourself? [ 4 Answers ]

I just had a plumber come out and they told me that my house trap is rusted/clogged and has tree roots in it. Their recommendation is to replace it (I totally agree) I'm pretty sure that the code in Allegheny county, PA says that you have to keep the trap. Unfortunately, the Roto-Rooter guy said...

Installing House Trap [ 14 Answers ]

Hi there. I found this site after researching house traps I live in Allegheny County, Pittsburgh PA We have a septic tank, and the water and sewage authority is requiring us to disconnect from our present (working) septic, And connecting to their sewage line, About 60 feet down a steep hill....

New house, no p trap in shower, buried in concrete. [ 3 Answers ]

So, we built a new house, had a plumber do the rough in and run the water lines. Had another contractor build the shower base's for custom showers. I tiled one shower and it turned out gorgous. Then after using the shower a couple of times a horrible gas smell arouse, I thought it might be the...

Sewer P-trap for house main line [ 1 Answers ]

Bought a 40 year old single story home in San Diego and we love it, except we get a sewer smell periodically outside (depending on weather, I guess). The smell is really bad. Had a plumbing come out and unclog a clog, and he mentioned maybe putting a P-trap on the our main line between the house &...

House Trap Odor [ 3 Answers ]

I have a horrible odor coming from the house trap. What could be the cause and what Can I do to correct it? Thank you for any suggestions.


View more questions Search