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bigjim · Oct 14, 2006, 01:13 PM

I am looking to do the plumbing for a water softener. The primary artery of the plumbing is a 1" copper pipe... the issue I am having with the location of the softener is that I would need to run about 10 ft of piping tapped into the main artery just to get the unsoftened water to the softener and then another 10 ft or so of piping back to the main artery supplying the rest of the house with softened water. My concern is that this is too far from the main line. I am just not familiar enough with water softeners, will the softener have enough pressure to move the softened water back through to the main pipe... Logically thinking I don't see why it would make a differnece if I run 2 feet of pipe off the main or 10. Thanks

dmkegs · Oct 14, 2006, 01:34 PM

In a lot of istallations the water softener is plumbed only on the inlet to the hot water tank to cut down on the calcium carbonate and other particulates formed when heating water. Unless your water is extremely hard I wouldn't soften the rest just the hot. If you have lots of particulates in ice cubes or you tea pot has build up that you can't live with then treat all the water, that's your call.
As far as pessure make sure that the diameter of the pipe is consistent to what comes in the house which in your case would be 1"

bigjim · Oct 14, 2006, 01:36 PM

Our avg grains per gallon is about 22 which is extrmely hard water... iron content is less than 1 ppm and same for manganese. I think in this case all the water should be softened with the exception of the outside faucets...

labman · Oct 14, 2006, 02:24 PM

This is just a house, 2000-3000 sqft? 3/4'' pipe is common in residential use. How long are your pipe runs? I don't think there is any way another 20' of 1'' pipe is going to make any difference in your water pressure.

And I strongly back softening everything but the outside water. Whoever is in charge of cleaning and maintaining the toilets will too.

dmkegs · Oct 14, 2006, 02:27 PM

I would agree you do have it hard ours runs about 9. The 10' shouldn't be a huge issue as long as you keep sizing adequate.

speedball1 · Oct 14, 2006, 03:29 PM

Hey Jim,

You will have to build a bypass when you pipe your softner. I have drawn up a typical bypass for you to see. The bypass will install just before you connect the inlet and outlet pipes. Good luck, Tom

labman · Oct 14, 2006, 04:41 PM

The Whirlpool softener I installed this summer has a built in bypass. If fact, with it in the bypass position, you can pull off a couple of clips and remove the softener leaving the bypass and the water on. It came with male 1'' pipe threads.

bigjim · Oct 14, 2006, 05:33 PM

THe main line coming into the house (the line I would need to tap into) is 1" copper...My old house was 3/4" copper. The softener I looked at would come with a bypas valve included so that shouldn't be an issue, just sounds like as long as I tap into the main and continue to use 1" copper wherever I put the softener will not be a problem

bigjim · Oct 15, 2006, 05:50 AM

Th other issue I have with this is the acctual connection to the softener. I have seen 3/4 flexible copper like that used on the water heater but not 1", would 1" be required or can I reduce the 1" main to 3/4" where it would meet the flexible pipe and then go into the softener, same with the outlet from the softener back to the main. I have seen 1" stainless flex, would this be a viable option
Thanks to all who helped