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ajneel · May 7, 2009, 01:58 PM

Need so save room by flat-framing two sides for my shower stalls. Will flat framing hold tile and hardibacker rigid enough?

21boat · May 7, 2009, 04:01 PM

If this is not a structural wall then flat frame is fine. Either or run a couple of long scabs flat behind those flat studs in its wall cavity. If you are screwing them into a brick wall then no worries there

mygirlsdad77 · May 7, 2009, 04:40 PM

Only concern I would have is wheather you would have enough room for shower faucet rough in.

Bljack · May 7, 2009, 05:36 PM

That would only work for furring out a block or poured concrete wall. Otherwise, no.

ajneel · May 7, 2009, 08:50 PM

contradictory answers! I can run plumbing in my two exterior walls (2x4) but I was hoping to frame my two interior walls flat. But I'm concerned a flat-framed wall won't be stiff enough to hold hardi and tile plumb. It's not structural: just needs to form the shower stall. Anyone have any experience with a flat-framed, tiled shower wall being sufficiently strong. I REALLY appreciate your input... thanks tons.

hkstroud · May 8, 2009, 06:15 AM

Two concerns about flat framing a wall. One is rigidity of the wall and the other is warping of the studs. I have a wall flat framed with 2x6's which seems to be sufficiently rigid. Not a shower wall but a wall framed for pocket doors. Use 2x6 and select material carefully.

If you are going to put plumbing in exterior wall, I hope you are not in a climate where freezing is a concern.

mygirlsdad77 · May 8, 2009, 03:21 PM

If you are going to put plumbing in exterior wall, I hope you are not in a climate where freezing is a concern.[/QUOTE]

Exactly right. No plumbing in exterior wall in climates that see below freezing temps. Unless this is in a basement, in which case, you can put water lines on a exterior wall.

Also, if the tile work is done correctly, it will support the flat framing. You should use 1/2 inch cement board, and then a good tile with a great grout. Also a great mortor for tile adhesion. You will also want to pick the truest 2x4s or 2x6s available.

creahands · May 9, 2009, 06:45 AM

If u don't mind lossing one more inch, use 2x3 studding

Chuck

Bljack · May 9, 2009, 07:01 AM

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Two concerns about flat framing a wall. One is rigidity of the wall and the other is warping of the studs.

... And that is why I said it would not work. You won't stop the studs from warping and twisting and cupping and that will destroy an installation that relies on the rigidity.

If I had to come up with a solution to something like this, and there is no guarantee that it will work, I would screw two metal studs together, creating a box that is 1.5" by 2.5" (you can use the 2x3 metal studs. Then sheath both sides You won't need to worry about twisting and warping with those. I'd secure the frame to a top and bottom plate of metals stud plate channel, with the channel protruding on the inside of the shower. Then I'd build a single layer custom mud pan which would lock the interior side of the walls against the bottom channel and use a Kerdi drain for the pan. Then I would install kerdi membrane on the walls or cover with a topical waterproofing membrane rated for shower pan construction such as Laticrete's Hydroban.

You would then be able to tile your shower.

A couple other construction things I thought of as I was typing this...

On the inside of the shower, where the metal studs are at the top plate, I'd run 2.4's on my table saw to fill the gap between the interior portion of the top plate and the sideways metal studs. Next, run the same size cuts along the other perimeter walls within the shower and along the bottom edge of any joist above. Then, cut a piece of rock or backer to affix to the ceiling as you need to somehow accommodate the steel framing of the top plate within the shower area. Furring out and giving a new ceiling would only result in the loss of about 1.75" in ceiling height which you probably would not even notice.

I hope all this makes sense to you.

ajneel · May 9, 2009, 01:52 PM

Great advice. Thanks to all.

Steve Pomery · Nov 27, 2009, 12:31 PM

Originally Posted by Bljack

...And that is why I said it would not work. You won't stop the studs from warping and twisting and cupping and that will destroy an installation that relies on the rigidity.

If I had to come up with a solution to something like this, and there is no guarantee that it will work, I would screw two metal studs together, creating a box that is 1.5" by 2.5" (you can use the 2x3 metal studs. Then sheath both sides You won't need to worry about twisting and warping with those. I'd secure the frame to a top and bottom plate of metals stud plate channel, with the channel protruding on the inside of the shower. Then I'd build a single layer custom mud pan which would lock the interior side of the walls against the bottom channel and use a Kerdi drain for the pan. Then I would install kerdi membrane on the walls or cover with a topical waterproofing membrane rated for shower pan construction such as Laticrete's Hydroban.

You would then be able to tile your shower.

A couple other construction things I thought of as I was typing this...

On the inside of the shower, where the metal studs are at the top plate, I'd run 2.4's on my table saw to fill the gap between the interior portion of the top plate and the sideways metal studs. Next, run the same size cuts along the other perimeter walls within the shower and along the bottom edge of any joist above. Then, cut a piece of rock or backer to affix to the ceiling as you need to somehow accomodate the steel framing of the top plate within the shower area. Furring out and giving a new ceiling would only result in the loss of about 1.75" in ceiling height which you probably would not even notice.

I hope all this makes sense to you.

Would it work to flatten the inside edge of the top plate and fasten it to the ceiling joist?

hkstroud · Nov 27, 2009, 05:34 PM

You haven't got this shower done yet?

How many studs do you need. Build yourself some 2x6 studs out of 3/4 plywood. They won't warp, twist, or cup. 2x6 studs on 16" centers should be sufficiently ridged.
Two pieces of 3/4 plywood glued together with Liquid Nails and some 1 1/2 screws. Guess you could make the whole wall solid with two sheets of 3/4 ply.