Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    baffled240's Avatar
    baffled240 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #21

    May 11, 2009, 08:55 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid View Post
    http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...uji/1N5407.pdf

    There is a digit missing. It's probably, or should be, a 1N5404.

    Note hat there is a white band on one side. This side goes away from the coil.

    It probably should not swivel. it may have been crimped, but that isn't a good way to make a connection to a solid piece of wire.

    Are you able to test with a multimeter?
    Thank you. You are right the number is 1N5406 and the white band is away from the coil. I can get it tested. What should it read? How do you measure it?
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #22

    May 12, 2009, 06:43 AM

    OK, so I'm off on the breakdown voltage. 4 vs 6.

    A lot of the multimeters have a diode test mode. In this mode, it passes a small amount of current and reads in voltage. Since it's a silicon diode, it should read around 0.6V and infinite when the leads are reversed.

    If your capable of measuring a DC voltage, then a 1k resstor in series with a 9V battery connected to the diode and measure the voltage across the diode in both directions. Again, around 0.6V in one direction and open in the other.

    The low ohms mode x1 will be a go/no go test. The diodes usually fail shorted, so if it reads nearly zero in both directions, it's bad.

    A 9V battery in series with a 1K resistor in series with an LED connected to the diode will light in one direction and not the other. Again, this is a Go/No Go test.

    The resistor, LED, battery clip and 9V battery are available at Radio Shack. 1/4 W or bigger for the resistor should be OK.
    baffled240's Avatar
    baffled240 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #23

    May 16, 2009, 07:55 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid View Post
    http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...uji/1N5407.pdf

    There is a digit missing. It's probably, or should be, a 1N5404.

    Note hat there is a white band on one side. This side goes away from the coil.

    It probably should not swivel. it may have been crimped, but that isn't a good way to make a connection to a solid piece of wire.

    Are you able to test with a multimeter?
    Well this mower is still not running and I am going to start tours through the jungle since my yard is getting very high... help? I changed the diode and it still does the same thing, it will sputter with the starter as if it is on the verge of running but will not catch and run. It looks possible the timing is off but the key looks fine. How do I verify that the motor is timed with a cylinder at top when the flywheel is on the magneedle? Help I have noticed the one spark plug is new but it is starting to look like it is producing combustion but the other is clean like new.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #24

    May 17, 2009, 08:41 AM

    You know. I think we may have been led astray.

    Did you by chance do a valve adjustment on the engine?

    I'm not sure of the clearances, but it's normally done with the piston at 1/4" down on the power stroke. Intake and exhaust on that cylinder are done at the same time.
    baffled240's Avatar
    baffled240 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #25

    May 17, 2009, 10:26 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid View Post
    You know. I think we may have been led astray.

    Did you by chance do a valve adjustment on the engine?

    I'm not sure of the clearances, but it's normally done with the piston at 1/4" down on the power stroke. Intake and exhaust on that cylinder are done at the same time.
    No, there has been no valve adjustment. The reason I wonder about the timing is because the "passenger" side piston is down about a half inch when the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up with the left side of the magneedle. I thought the piston should be top of cylinder at that point.

    This is definitely something out of the ordinary and is going to require someone really good at looking at the facts to determine which variable is not correct.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #26

    May 17, 2009, 10:37 AM

    The plugs will likely fire at the same time, just one in the power stroke and the other in the exhaust stroke.

    That was the premise of 1 coil for 2 cylinders in automotive engines.
    baffled240's Avatar
    baffled240 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #27

    May 17, 2009, 01:17 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid View Post
    The plugs will likely fire at the same time, just one in the power stroke and the other in the exhaust stroke.

    That was the premise of 1 coil for 2 cylinders in automotive engines.
    So have you ever heard of such a thing as having a 16 hp Briggs that has
    1. spark (brand new quick start plugs)
    2. fuel (fresh)
    3. Compression seems to be good
    4. Cranks over good and fast
    5. combustion smoke comes out of exhaust

    But with all of this it will not run?
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #28

    May 17, 2009, 05:21 PM

    If those plugs have the "booster gap" they don't seem to work for standard ignitions.

    Get a normal plug.
    biggd4355's Avatar
    biggd4355 Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #29

    May 18, 2009, 12:14 PM

    Sometimes the easiest answer is the right one. Try draining the fuel tank and put in fresh fuel
    earlgo's Avatar
    earlgo Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #30

    May 21, 2009, 06:38 PM

    Hi guys. I have a similar Craftsman with the same model no as being discussed. The one I have runs just fine with the passenger side plug disconnected but won't run at all with the driver side disconnected and PS connected. It acts like it has the power of 1/2 an engine. I cannot find an engine number. But the real question is, does the flywheel have to be removed to find the diode(s)? Thanks for this thread, it surely will help.
    Regards to all.
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
    Ultra Member
     
    #31

    May 21, 2009, 08:56 PM

    This could still have a weak coil. A little trick to test that is take a good spark plug and cut off the curl part so its now a straight out piece away from the center of the plug. Crank engine, If the spark won't make that bigger jump then it's a weak coil for that cylinder. A spark doesn't mean its 'Hot" enough to run the engine..

    Do you have the actual No# of the engine yet.
    Model
    Make
    Type??

    Of the engine itself..

    I didn't look back on the previous pages but did you check the flywheel "key" If that is off then the timing will be off.

    How to check on basic valve adjustments...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j77Y5...C8D2D&index=40

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGkn0...C8D2D&index=41
    biggd4355's Avatar
    biggd4355 Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #32

    May 21, 2009, 09:00 PM

    Is there fresh fuel?
    earlgo's Avatar
    earlgo Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #33

    May 22, 2009, 04:29 AM
    Do you have the actual No# of the engine yet.
    Model
    Make
    Type?

    Of the engine itself..

    I didn't look back on the previous pages but did you check the flywheel "key" If that is off then the timing will be off.

    ******
    No I have looked everywhere. All the shrouds are off and I have not seen or felt a number nor have I found a stamped plate.

    I have not pulled the flywheel as I am trying to avoid that, but will if req'd

    Thanks for the spark plug 'tip'.

    Regards to all.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #34

    May 22, 2009, 07:17 AM

    earlgo:

    Briggs stamps the numbers on the blower housing and then PAINTS over them. There is no plate.

    You will either have to feel for some small depressions or look very closely with a flashlight. Usually it's on the flat portion.
    earlgo's Avatar
    earlgo Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #35

    May 23, 2009, 06:41 AM
    Hi Guys:
    In this case the numbers are stamped on the driver's side heat shield on the flange facing front. I took all the shields off and put them aside so I could fix things. This one is a Model 402707 type 0157 02 code 86060512 and someone already said that, so stupid me.

    I got both plugs to fire and the engine runs with either plug wire disconnected. However someone put automobile plugs in it: Champion 12Rs. The good news is the radio hardly has any static in it.

    I adjusted the needle valve and it starts and idles OK but has NO power. It barely turns the blades and moves in 3rd gear on grass that has been cut 3 or 4 times. When the throttle is opened up all the way it dies. I am thinking plugged fuel filter or junk in the float chamber.

    My old but newer 12.5 HP has a lot more power than this alleged 16 HP model.

    Regards to all.
    earlgo's Avatar
    earlgo Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #36

    May 23, 2009, 02:18 PM

    Hi guys:
    New plugs, the right ones this time, new gas filter, draining the schmutz out of the float bowl, a careful carb adjustment according to the manual, and I am in bidness, as they say.

    Thanks for your support and have a great holiday weekend.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #37

    May 23, 2009, 07:44 PM

    One down, one still to go.

    Good job!
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
    Ultra Member
     
    #38

    May 23, 2009, 11:36 PM

    earlgo If you don't have the manual for your engine I have it for you down the raod.
    And the parts to cross reference with

    http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...OMESTIC_LO.pdf

    http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...=MS6931_LO.pdf

    At least you have more insight on how its all laid out
    earlgo's Avatar
    earlgo Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #39

    May 24, 2009, 05:37 AM
    Getting the engine manual and parts list was easy once I had the number from the heat shields.
    What I would like is a copy of the lawnmower manual 917.255821 but even the guy on e-bay with a bazillion manuals doesn't have this one.

    If I can get all the heat shields back in place and the lights fixed, I should be set to go.

    I can take photos of anything someone needs to see, in reference to this mower, that is. I am assuming that one can link to photos in an on-line photo website.

    Regards to all.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #40

    May 24, 2009, 09:17 AM

    You can post pictures using "Go Advanced/Manage Attachments"

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Craftsman Weedeater won't stay running [ 5 Answers ]

I have a convertible craftsman weedeater that has run like a champ - until now! I can get it to run briefly, a few minutes at most, then it dies and will not restart. After reading some similar posts I am beginning to suspect either an in tank filter or the inlet filter on the card Sound...

Craftsman 16.5 OHV won't stay running [ 3 Answers ]

I have a craftsman 16.5 IC OHV that I just replaced the fuel cylenoid switch on because it wouldn't crank without pouring gas into carburetor. Once I changed that, it ran for about 10 minutes then shut off. I was able to jump it off with jumper cables a couple of times, and it kept shutting off. ...

Craftsman Snowblower will not stay running [ 1 Answers ]

I have a Craftsman Snowblower 9 HP, 29" Thrower deck. I started it, and it ran for five minutes while I snowblowed the driveway. Then it stalled. Now, I can start it, but it only runs for a few seconds before stalling out again. It's full of gas and oil and has always run great. I'm wondering...

Craftsman Tiller tines always running [ 2 Answers ]

I have a Craftsman 5HP tiller with reverse (Model# 917.299450) Searspartsdirect link I got the tiller from someone else and it was purchased in 1981 I believe. So its an old old tiller but it still runs and does the job. I replaced the forward motion v belt. The one I put on broke so I replaced...

Craftsman mower bogged down and stopped running [ 1 Answers ]

This craftsman has a 21.5 hp motor overhead valve engine42 inch cut electric start automatic transmission hydrastat drive.It just bogged down and stopped running it turns over but I have never got it running since. It turns over easy using the key butdoesn'tsound like there is any spark, not...


View more questions Search