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pare_john · Apr 13, 2009, 06:35 PM

Here are the pics. I still have to put in the ptrap for the shower and bring of the piping and ptrap for the washer.

I ended cutting off about 3/4" from both the collar of the offset flange and the collar of the closet. Nor my flange is flush with the plywood which means I will be more then perfect once the tile is laid.

I have said it before but I will say it again. I owe you a lot of thanks for all the help you have given to me. If you lived closer I would take you out for a good beer and dinner. I will continue to post pics as the renovations progress

massplumber2008 · Apr 14, 2009, 03:47 AM

Nicely done John

Glad to help... beats hanging' out at the local bar for sure!

Thanks for posting the pics.

MARK

pare_john · Apr 14, 2009, 02:22 PM

Here is another question. What is the proper method for installing the trap for the shower. I heard that you are supposed to make a box, can you please explain.

Thank you,

massplumber2008 · Apr 14, 2009, 02:29 PM

You can install the trap before pouring the concrete or after you pour the concrete. If you want to install it before you pour concrete you need to be dead on nuts in terms of the rough in numbers.

If you want to install it afterwards then you need to be damn close but not exactly 100% on for the trap as adjustments can be made after the fact.Either way, you will build a box of 2"x4"s about 12" square, then pin the (stake it off) box around the pipe stubbed up (if trap installed) or where the pipe will go when it goes vertical and then fill the box with dirt for now (loosely). Then pour the concrete patch and let dry.

After the concrete dries you will pry the 2" square, then pin the (stake it off) box around the pipe stubbed up (if trap installed) or where the pipe will go when it goes vertical and then fill the box with dirt for now (loosely). Then pour the concrete patch and let dry.

After the concrete dries you will pry the 2" box out and clear the box of dirt so you can install the shower trap and/or strainer.

When you get ready to install the shower pop back and chat about it with me. I have a few tricks that will save you some time!

pare_john · Apr 14, 2009, 05:14 PM

well I have the drain rough in measurements. The shower base is a MAXX 48 x 32. It is a center drain. According to MAXX the drain should be roughed in at 23 7/8 and 16.

I am assuming from what you said if I install the trap after I will build my box with the 2" entering the box on the horizontal. Then pour my concrete into the trench. Once concrete is dry I will remove the box and dry fit the trap and get to the desired rough in measurements.

Could I also just back fill my trench install the trap and using the shower base to verify my rough in placement. Once everything looks good back fill the trap box to keep the pipe in the proper position. Then do the concreting.

Also when I put in the trap I am assuming I will bring the finished vertical pipe up a few inches past sub floor for easabilty of final drain install.

massplumber2008 · Apr 15, 2009, 03:40 AM

Install the trap first and have it so the pipe stubs above the ground 6 inches for now. Then dry fit the shower base (just place it over the pipe without the shower strainer in place) and then level the shower base from front to back and from side to side.

If all lines up after that, remove the base and STILL put that box out around the pipe... stake it to keep it steady.

The you pour the concrete and let it dry.

Then remove the box and install the shower strainer to the shower base. I figure the best drain for this application will be a no-calk shower strainer... see pictures (left one is plastic version of right one in brass... either works here). You will like this strainer as it will simply slip over the long pipe now and later you can cut it down using an INSIDE PIPE CUTTER (see last picture.. sold at home depot, about $10.00).

Then you will need to find out if the manufacturer of the MAAX base wants you to set this in a bedding substrate (structolite, mortar, plaster, etc.). If a bedding substrate is needed then you will set the base in the substrate and level it from front to back and from side to side and let that set up overnight.

Back to you...

pare_john · Apr 15, 2009, 02:24 PM

Thanks again for the great advice.

Once I cut down the pipe how do I get it secured to the strainer? I am assuming there is a collar that you turn to compresses against the pipe.

When I make my box I am assuming that once everything is lined up that I will back fill the box with crushed stone? Or do I just leave it empty?

Yes Maax suggests putting down some mortar in the corners, cover the mortor with plastic and then lay the base on top and level it out. They suggest doing this to add support.

pare_john · Apr 20, 2009, 06:13 PM

I am back. Concrete is all poured and I will be laying the new subfloor this weekend. I went to the store and saw the shower drain that you posted pics of. It says on the instuctions that I still need to use pipe cement, is this true? I figured that once you have the pipe cut to length all you would need to do it tighten the rubber collar to make a seal against the pipe.

Milo Dolezal · Apr 20, 2009, 06:32 PM

I'll jump in before Mark comes back: Some drains glue on top of the pipe, but most of them are installed with rubber washer and large nut. I would not use the glue type. The other one is better for your application.

massplumber2008 · Apr 21, 2009, 04:37 AM

As Milo suggested, you must have the wrong drain because the one I posted only has that rubber washer and nut that slides down over the pipe.

Purchase another one as posted and your job will go smoothly!

MARK

pare_john · May 4, 2009, 03:51 PM

Hey guys,

Well the progress is going great. The subfloor and shower are all installed. I just have a question regarding the shower valve. I purchased a Moen Brantford chrome posi temp tub shower by Moen : (R-CONSUMER:T2153) and am trying to figure out how to rough in the valve. I am planning on doing the shower wall with cement board. What is the thickness of cement board? 1/4" or 1/2"? Now looking at the instructions that came with the falve there is a plastic ring called the plaster ground the say this needs to be flush with the finished wall. I am assuming this means the tiled wall? Also is there any room for play or do I need to be exactly flush?

Maybe you guys can take a look at the instructions and let me know. Thanks

mygirlsdad77 · May 4, 2009, 04:30 PM

Yes the plastic guard should be flush with finish tile surface. No need to be exact, just make sure to stay within a quarter inch either way. I believe cement board comes in different thickness. I usually usually figure 3/8" for cement board.

pare_john · May 4, 2009, 06:32 PM

Thanks for the quick reply.

I also noticed that the valve only accepts threaded fittings. I am assuming this means I have to by a threaded fitting that I can then weld my 1/2" copper pipe into?

The valve is made to have a bathtub spout. Since I will not be using this can I assume all I have to do is plug the exit in the valve that would go to the spout?

Thank you,

massplumber2008 · May 5, 2009, 09:35 AM

Hi John...

That plastic guard needs to be flush with the finish tile as you noted.

The cement board needs to be 1/2" on walls, add 1/8" for thinset mortar (or similar product) and then add the thickness of the tile (usually 1/4", but best to pick the tile to know for sure).

In terms of the threaded fittings, you can PRE-SOLDER your threaded fittings and then screw them into place... OR, you can probably just clean the inside of the threaded fitting and attach copper directly into the valve... ;) To check this, slide in a piece of 1/2" copper to all ports... if fit is tight you just need to remove the stem of the valve and solder in connections direct.

Let me know if that all made sense.. O.K.

You will also need a 1/2" copper x 1/2" female drop ear elbow for the shower arm.. see picture. Be sure to pre-solder this before attaching to wood brace.

MARK

pare_john · May 5, 2009, 06:45 PM

Thanks for the reply. For the cement board can I not use 3/8" as noted by mygirl or does it have to be 1/2" as you stated?

I tried to put a 1/2" pipe directly into the valve but the pipe is too small. I will have to use a threaded fitting. Would you know the size of the fitting I would need/ or are all valves different?

Thanks again for the help

massplumber2008 · May 6, 2009, 04:30 AM

They don't even make 3/8" cement board....only 1/4" and 1/2". The 1/4" is for floors only so you will want to install the 1/2" board for walls.

Most valve threads are going to be 1/2" male threads so you would need 1/2" copper female adapters. However, you said that 1/2" pipe was too small so I'm betting that you have a 3/4" valve there... so you would need 3/4" female adapters and pipe or again just install the pipe directly into the valve. You could buy 3/4" x 1/2" couplings and reduce to 1/2" copper that way.

Again, pre-solder any threaded fittings before connecting them to the valve (use teflon tape and/or pipe dope).

Good luck!

pare_john · May 6, 2009, 05:10 PM

Do they make a 3/4" threaded fitting that reduces into 1/2"

After looking through the website it lists the valve as 1/2" fitting. But like i said a 1/2" copper pipe in extremely loose when inserted

Milo Dolezal · May 6, 2009, 06:07 PM

Good observation. What we do in this case we take 1/2" x 2" brass nipple, screw this nipple into the faucet body and then screw 1/2" female copper adaptor to it. Repeat for each outlet From that female fitting we than continue with copper pipe...

Hope that helps... Let us know how it went... Milo

pare_john · May 6, 2009, 06:38 PM

Why 1/2" x 2", wouldn't I want to get a nipple that is 3/4" x 1/2" and then screw the 1/2" female copper adapter to that?

Milo Dolezal · May 6, 2009, 06:55 PM

Oh, I am sorry... my fault...

Yes, if you have 3/4" inlets than yes: you would get 3/4" x Close brass nipples, 3/4" x 1/2"brass reducing coupling and another 1/2"x Close brass nipple. Then you will continue with 1/2" Female copper adaptor and continue with pipe...