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    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #1

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:29 PM
    New toilet installation in finished basement.
    I just laid porcelain tile in my basement bathroom and I set the tile right up to the drain pipe for the toilet coming up through the concrete. Now I'm hearing that I should have chiseled out the concrete around the pipe so that the closet flange could be glued down over the pipe. Don't they make a flange that goes down inside the drain pipe instead of outside and are there any big problems with using it?
    Also, the floor was somewhat unlevel right by the drain pipe and I have a feeling the toilet won't sit flush to the tile all the way around. What's the best way to make the toilet set solidly on the tile so it won't rock at all? Shims of some kind?
    Thanks in advance. I always get good answers here.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #2

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:37 PM
    Hi Dave... been awhile. Hope all is good!

    What size pipe? They do make a TWIST AND SET flange that fits inside the pipe... see picture. These are sold at home depot or local plumbing supply house.

    You still need to secure the flange through the tile... ;) Let us know if need more info...

    To balance the toilet they make PLASTIC toilet shims... see picture. ALso available at home depot or plumbing supply house...

    MARK
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    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #3

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:40 PM

    What size is the toilet stup up pipe, 3 or 4 inch? If 4 then you can use a twist and set, which does go inside of pipe. If 3, then still same answer, but I have never used a 3. I believe it was ballengerb that said he has used three inch twist and set with no problems. I would agree (after thinking about it) that there would be no problem with these. Just cut pipe level with floor and inset flange.. As far as leveling toilet. There are a few ways. Caulking with shims, or grouting with shims, or,, plaster of paris has worked well for me. Hope this helps. Also, make sure to anchor closet flange with hilti type concrete anchors.
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    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #4

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:41 PM

    Mark beat me. Sorry.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #5

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:42 PM
    Nice to see we agree... Dave should have no issues knowing what to do... :)
    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #6

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:49 PM

    Massplumber, long time no see. Thanks, I'll look for one of them. I have a bit to drill through the tile and then I can use a regular masonry bit and drill a 3/16" hole and use Tapcon screws to anchor the flange. At least that's what I was planning on. Do you recommend a specific wax ring?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #7

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:54 PM
    I'm a fan of wax rings with plastic sleeve... ;)... see picture. Use 5/16" closet bolts... best overall. A regular masonary bit should get through the tile... unless porcelain tile?
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    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #8

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:56 PM
    No fighting over me guys, I have plenty of questions to go around. :) It's a 4" pipe by the way. To set the toilet with grout or caulk and shims, do I level it and then caulk/grout around the base?
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #9

    Mar 3, 2009, 07:59 PM

    Yep, exactly. Just make sure to allow time for caulk, or grout to fully cure before using toilet..
    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #10

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:00 PM
    Yes, it's porcelain tile. Ok, 5/16" it is. Thanks
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #11

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:02 PM
    Me and Lee (mygirlsdad) are friends. We never compete.. only compliment each other and a few others around here. Combined we have 4-5 guys that really make for a well-rounded discussion on any topic of plumbing... except maybe power showers... ;)... we are still lost on that subject... LOL!

    Keep us posted Dave!

    MARK
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #12

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:04 PM
    I also agree with Mark about the ring with sleeve. As far as brands go, they are all the same. I use hercules, but that's just because that's what my boss orders.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #13

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:07 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008 View Post
    Me and Lee (mygirlsdad) are friends. We never compete..only compliment each other and a few others around here. Combined we have 4-5 guys that really make for a well-rounded discussion on any topic of plumbing...except maybe power showers...;)...we are still lost on that subject...LOL!

    Keep us posted Dave!

    MARK
    Yep. And I'm still wondering about that power shower myself. I couldn't even bring myself to answer on that one.
    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #14

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:11 PM

    So, no PVC glue required using this style flange?
    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #15

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:18 PM

    Mark, I gathered that you two were friends. I was kidding. You guys make me feel much more confident about these plumbing jobs. You make it all sound so easy. It's good to get advice from guys so knowledgeable.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #16

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:18 PM

    Correct. No glues or cleaners necessary.
    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #17

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:22 PM
    I think I like the caulk and shims idea better. I'm not sure how I would get the grout into the gap as well as the caulk.
    Can I get the plastic shims from Lowe's or HD?
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #18

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:24 PM

    I agree Dave. Yes you should be able to get the shims at either of these places.

    I have seen where the tile layer will use the same grout on toiler bowl base as he did on tile. Looks nice, but it would definitely be easier to use the caulking, and will work just as well.
    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #19

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:26 PM

    You guys are so quick and you're editing your previous posts too so I apologize for asking questions that you've already answered.
    Dave Ermeling's Avatar
    Dave Ermeling Posts: 173, Reputation: 3
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    #20

    Mar 3, 2009, 08:29 PM

    I'd be afraid the grout would break apart or crumble eventually.

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