[Toka]

I need to connect a "T" to an 1.5" underground pvc pipe. To fit properly a 1" space must be cut in the pipe. The "T" is obviously larger than the opening, how can this be done?:mad: :confused:

[speedball1]

I need to connect a "T" to an 1.5" underground pvc pipe. To fit properly a 1" space must be cut in the pipe. The "T" is obviously larger than the opening, how can this be done?:mad: :confused:

No problem Toka,

You will prime and glue a short piece of 1 1/2" pvc in one end of the tee. Next you will place the tee on the pipe where you wish it to to go and make a pencil mark at the end of the pipe sticking out of the tee and the other end and make your cut
And last you will purchase a 1 1/2" PVC dresser/ compression coupling,(see image) and slip it over the pipe in the ground. You may now prime and glue the female end of the tee and slip the coupling over the break and tighten the nuts. Good luck, Tom

[Oscare66]

Tom, so for every additional T or valve you need to insert in an existing PVC line, you have to use a dresser coupling on one side of the new component?

Tom, so for every additional T or valve you need to insert in an existing PVC line, you have to use a dresser coupling on one side of the new component?


I want to install a bypass in my existing PVC pipeline that goes to my house filter. I want to be able to add a bypass so I can repair or maintain the filter system without shutting off the water supply to our house.
If I cut the pipeline to the length of the "T" fitting+the pipe cuts, how do I slip the ends to the existing pipeline on both sides at the same time? I would have to bend the pipe to slip it in. Help!

[speedball1]

If you can't "spring" the two pipes far enough to prime and glue a fitting You either use a street fitting( a fitting with one male end or glue in a short piee of pipe. Good luck, Tom

[massplumber2008]

HI Oscare66

PVC pipe can take some deflection so prime/cement one side of the fitting to the pipe and then bend both pipes outward until the pipe and fitting meet and then prime/cement them together and kind of "SNAP" the pipes into place... pipe will fall into the joint as you straighten the pipes.

If there is absolutely no movement for some reason you could also use a SLIP COUPLING fitting (no center stop). Here, you prime/cement the tee fitting onto a small piece of PVC pipe on one end... the other end gets primed/cemented to the PVC pipe and then you slide the pipe into place and slide the coupling over the pipe end to join... see image below.

Most likely there will be some movement, so give it a shot and let us know how you make out, OK?

Mark

[massplumber2008]

Hi all...

Tom moved my post from another post by you Oscare. I wanted you to know 'cause I don't usually repeat what Tom has already said...

I did, however, notice that Tom mentioned using a SHIELDED CLAMP. You CANNOT use a shielded clamp on water lines, OK? I am sure he got confused with the different posts combining... ;)

You deflect the pipes as mentioned above OR you use the SLIP COUPLING as I posted, OK?

Mark

[speedball1]

True that Mark! Guess I'm getting too old For this job. I was thinking drainage and missed the whole point. It seems that yesterday was nmy day to screw up, ( got two reddies for it) I'll try to do bhetter in the future,
Thanks Mark for correcting me, Tom

[jlisenbe]

Good thread with an awful lot of great info.

A slip coupling is a great invention. Simple, but great.