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    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #21

    Feb 22, 2009, 08:37 PM
    I feel like I am in the middle of an inside joke with the flame sensor picture (mentioned by KC13) and $$$$$.

    You are but do not tell anybody. LOL
    twilley's Avatar
    twilley Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #22

    Feb 22, 2009, 08:47 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    [F Danny lets try a cheap and quick test. Disconnect the R and W wires at the terminals at the furnace. Then jump the R and W terminals with a piece of wire or jumper cord. Turn the furnace back on and let it run. It should continue to run non stop. The temperature will continue to rise in the home but no harm will be done. Stay by the furnace and watch it operate and note any deviation from the constant burner running. After 10-15 minutes of this turn the unit off and report back with exactly what happened.

    I recognize that I am not the most keen person around but I cannot find the flame seņor. I found the ignitor but not the seņor. But I did jump the R & W terminals and the furnace came on. The furnace would light up but only for a minute or so, then cut off. The blower would continue to run. The furnace tried to light 3 times then shut off completely.

    I hope I explained everything clearly enough.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #23

    Feb 22, 2009, 09:34 PM
    There is a flame sensor somewhere. The book calls for

    Microamps of flame circuit (1.0 minimum, up to 7.0 better)
    Also check continuity of the ground wire.

    Rheem Rudd same basic furnace with name change has had problems with this unit of yours. Last report they were offering 375.00 towards a new furnace but if it is on LP gas and not Natural gas the furnace can be had for free with the right arm twisting. That you would have to take up with a local Rudd distributer.

    I believe your unit might also be the drum design and that unit was just plain bad news. Can you post some pictures of the burner area? If so I can probably locate the flame sensor if so equipped.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #24

    Feb 23, 2009, 04:37 AM
    If it's the Imperial Drum design, there is no OEM remote sensor. The ignitor does double-duty on this one, unless an add-on remote sensor has been installed (look for a wire tap on the harness to the ignitor). Imperial... yeah, right.:rolleyes:
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #25

    Feb 23, 2009, 04:50 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by twilley View Post
    I feel like I am in the middle of an inside joke with the flame sensor picture (mentioned by KC13) and $$$$$.
    You are. Keep still, my aim isn't what it used to be.:p
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #26

    Feb 23, 2009, 09:30 AM
    There were two reasons to ask about the drum. The sensor since he could not find one and the cracks in the drum for 375.00 I believe. If he has no sensor and if the furnace was not changed over to the new style ignitor/modual system by now it is probably best to replace that POS.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #27

    Feb 23, 2009, 03:25 PM
    POS is putting it nicely. There's nothing "Imperial" about those drums. "Inferior Drum" would be more appropriate.;)
    twilley's Avatar
    twilley Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #28

    Feb 23, 2009, 03:52 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    There were two reasons to ask about the drum. The sensor since he could not find one and the cracks in the drum for 375.00 I believe. If he has no sensor and if the furnace was not changed over to the new style ignitor/modual system by now it is probably best to replace that POS.
    Okay,
    After a cold night of sleeping I woke up this morning and examined the furnace some more. The furnace goes through 5 cycles of lighting then shutting down completely (I realized that late last night). A guide on the control panel door said that it could be one of two problems. The first being the control board needs to be replaced. So I took the screws off the control panel doors and low and behold in the upper left corner of the control board there was a brown/burn mark that appears to be a fried portion of the control board.

    So I am thinking that I need a new control board/panel.

    Danny
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #29

    Feb 23, 2009, 03:57 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by twilley View Post
    So I am thinking that I need a new control board/panel.

    Danny
    The new furnace comes with one.;)
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #30

    Feb 23, 2009, 05:37 PM

    Need to know if this is indeed an imperial. If so, replace furnace. How old is furnace, they haven't made imperials for quite a few years. It may be time to call in a tech to assess the furnace. The board definitely sounds like a problem, but I hesitate to tell you to replace board when there may be other issues with the furnace. Could become a money pit(especially if its an imperial). Please let us know what you decide.

    Ps, the new rheem/ruud furnaces are much better. Don't be scared of them for past mistakes. All furnaces have had their bad years of manufacture. If you decide to replace, just gets at least three different quotes from reliable contractors. Hope all works out for you.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #31

    Feb 23, 2009, 05:44 PM
    F.Y.I. I checked on a replacement h/x drum in November and was told they are no longer available. For the few that are still in warranty, the manufacturer is offering a minimal credit toward a replacement unit (must be same brand).
    twilley's Avatar
    twilley Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #32

    Feb 23, 2009, 06:07 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77 View Post
    Need to know if this is indeed an imperial. If so, replace furnace. How old is furnace, they havent made imperials for quite a few years. It may be time to call in a tech to assess the furnace. The board definately sounds like a problem, but i hesitate to tell you to replace board when there may be other issues with the furnace. Could become a money pit(especially if its an imperial). Please let us know what you decide.

    ps, the new rheem/ruud furnaces are much better. Dont be scared of them for past mistakes. All furnaces have had their bad years of manufacture. If you decide to replace, just gets at least three different quotes from reliable contractors. Hope all works out for you.
    How can I tell if it is an imperial?
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #33

    Feb 23, 2009, 06:09 PM
    Can you post some pictures?
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #34

    Feb 23, 2009, 06:35 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by twilley View Post
    How can I tell if it is an imperial?
    Does the center area of the furnace resemble a large, round, bolted horizontal bulkhead?

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