[KISS]

1,2, and 3 you have. This is what's confusing.

Carb cleaner as starting you don't need because the plug is wet.

Another angle:
Could you have tried to start the engine when it was in gear?

[jli_2008]

1,2, and 3 you have. This is what's confusing.

Carb cleaner as starting you don't need because the plug is wet.

Another angle:
Could you have tried to start the engine when it was in gear?

For the model of my machine, it's always in gear as there is no neutral gear, the gears are speed 1,2... 5 forward, and one "R" gear for reverse. It usuall stays in "R" when the machine is been started.

Thanks

[KISS]

Now I am totally, totally confused.

The speed is at the engine which makes sense. Usually the engine has a speed sensitive clutch, so nothing works until the engine is up to speed and so the tines don't run when starting the engine.

Then there is a transmission, if so equipped.

Then, there normally is a handle that has to be moved to cause the wheels to turn. An ON/OFF so to speak.

[jli_2008]

Now I am totally, totally confused.

The speed is at the engine which makes sense. Usually the engine has a speed sensitive clutch, so nothing works until the engine is up to speed and so the tines don't run when starting the engine.

Then there is a transmission, if so equipped.

Then, there normally is a handle that has to be moved to cause the wheels to turn. An ON/OFF so to speak.

Sorry, I think I didn't make myself clear. The gear I mentioned is the speed control gear, or maybe I used a wrong word. Anyway, there is a speed control stick can be put in 1,2... 5 and "R" position; It always stays in "R" position when the engine was being started; There is another handler to turn the wheels, I never pushed that handle

[jli_2008]

Sorry, I think I didn't make myself clear. The gear I mentioned is the speed control gear, or maybe I used a wrong word. Anyways, there is a speed control stick can be put in 1,2...5 and "R" position; It always stays in "R" position when the engine was being started; There is another handler to turn the wheels, I never pushed that handle

Another question is do I need to add "fuel stabilizer"? The seller told me he had added the fuel stabilizer before the first use in this winter, but I drained out all gas from the gas tank to make sure there is no stale gas. Do I need to add the fuel stabilizer again?

[KISS]

I think I'm out of options for you. Besides spark plug, operator error, broken shear pin and no compression for whatever reason I have no idea. I don't know if the engine has a compression release to make it easier to start.

Broken shear pin would mean the timing is off.
Compression is a little harder to check. If you pull the starter by hand slowly there should be some resistance. Briggs engines with a compression release will show virtually no compression unless the engine is turned backwards. WIth electric start, you can always use a compression gauge.

If you have a rubber mallot, try tapping the block.


Is it possible you can ask the guy you bought it from to come over and see if your doing anything wrong?

[jli_2008]

I think I'm out of options for you. Besides spark plug, operator error, broken shear pin and no compression for whatever reason I have no idea. I don't know if the engine has a compression release to make it easier to start.

Broken shear pin would mean the timing is off.
Compression is a little harder to check. If you pull the starter by hand slowly there should be some resistance. Briggs engines with a compression release will show virtually no compression unless the engine is turned backwards. WIth electric start, you can always use a compression gauge.

If you have a rubber mallot, try tapping the block.


Is it possible you can ask the guy you bought it from to come over and see if your doing anything wrong?

Much appreciated for your help, all useful tips and your patience anyway. Today I tried to dripped a little gas into the plug hole and then started the engine, still didn't work. Same as your point, I also suspect there might be something wrong with the timing stuff. I'll keep checking or ask the professional technician to come down. I'll keep you updated with the final result.

Thanks again.
John

[KISS]

I may have figured out the problem by looking at another post here.
That big red knob is not labeled. It probably has 3 positions. In the position shown it' s OFF, The middle is choke and the right-most is run.

Try putting the throttle to high. All the way up and put the RED knob in the center position. Once the engine starts. Move the choke to the full right position and adjust the speed.

[jli_2008]

I may have figured out the problem by looking at another post here.
That big red knob is not labeled. It probably has 3 positions. In the position shown it' s OFF, The middle is choke and the right-most is run.

Try putting the throttle to high. All the way up and put the RED knob in the center position. Once the engine starts. Move the choke to the full right position and adjust the speed.

Hi,
I appreciate for your following up and investigation, but it didn't like the root cause of the problem. I had tried all the choke positions to start the engine but no luck a all.

Yesterday I called a small engine technician to come down, he took out some screws/bolts from the carb, did a bit cleaning and put them back, then the engine was easily to be started, but not run stable, just up and down. He then took out the carb back to the shop, he said he needed to completely clean the carb then it should works fine.

Today he called me back, he said he cleaned the carb, and put it to a similar snowblower to test, but still the same, just up and down. He said he suspected there are serious problem with the carb, he would look for an used carb to replace my one, if it still does not work, he will have to order a new one for me.

Looks like my transportation mistake seriously damaged the carb somehow.

BTW, do you know how much does it cost roughly for a small engine carb like the carb of a 4 cycles snowblower( 10 HP )?

Thanks again
John

[jli_2008]

Hi,
I appreciate for your following up and investigation, but it didn't like the root cause of the problem. I had tried all the choke positons to start the engine but no luck a all.

Yesterday I called a small engine technician to come down, he took out some screws/bolts from the carb, did a bit cleaning and put them back, then the engine was easily to be started, but not run stable, just up and down. He then took out the carb back to the shop, he said he needed to completely clean the carb then it should works fine.

Today he called me back, he said he cleaned the carb, and put it to a similar snowblower to test, but still the same, just up and down. He said he suspected there are serious problem with the carb, he would look for an used carb to replace my one, if it still does not work, he will have to order a new one for me.

Looks like my transportation mistake seriously damaged the carb somehow.

BTW, do you know how much does it cost roughly for a small engine carb like the carb of a 4 cycles snowblower( 10 HP )?

Thanks again
John

I guess the big knob you mentioned is shown in the 3rd pic which is the fuel valve, the position shown in the picture is the "OPEN" position according to the mannual; I had tried the other positions as well anyway, no lucks.

Thanks
Regards
John

[KISS]

I was going to say about $100.
e.g. TECUMSEH CARB PART#632334A FITS MOST 8-10HP SNOW KING - eBay (item 170275665003 end time Jan-29-09 07:27:36 PST)

Rebuild kits are probably about $15.00.

You probably got a particle of dirt where it's not supposed to be.
Another that causes the surges is the plates not being free to move easily or the float adjustment not being right.

[KISS]

Here's mine, or used to be my father's. It's probably 35 years old. It died about 5 years ago and I finally got it running when these posts were made:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/garden...ed-143395.html

I still have no dipstick, but with some work, I eventually will.
It had lots of annoying problems:

Carb was flooding. It was the fuel tank and not the carb.
A fuel tank was retrofitted. Tank was changed from metal to plastic.

No fuel shut off valve - added

Pull rope broke.

Engage lever had to be tied into position with rope to use it. Changed castle nut to aircraft nut so that's fixed.

A cotter pin rather tan an unusual split pin in one of the axel drive wheels. The split pin was the same thing. It was an odd size, so 10 of them cost me about $15.00

A little paint. It still needs more.

And a stupid "Hypro key". Sears sold a woodruff key for the blower that would not work. That was like $35.00/5. Special order from a manufacturer.

Got an oil change.

I still have to work on the dip stick. Some cutting/bending and drilling to get it to work.

And I was thinking about teflon lining the chute with bondable teflon such as this: Teflon PTFE Sheet Bondable, .030" Thick 12" x 12" - SmallParts.com

Usually don't get much snow, but when we do watch out.

I figured that after I fixed it, I wouldn't need it and sure enough, I didn't. I considered that season a success.

Glitch: No electric start or compression release on this model. Electric start conversions are expensive

[KISS]

BTW, Tecumseh shut down their engine division on December 15, 2008. Parts will be in short supply.

[KISS]

Here is an interesting thread (surging): Tecumseh H35 tuning - Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines